Freightrain

I think they go for $2/gal here locally. When I stretched my truck I got some tanks for $25 each? Few years later they wanted $100 for the same tank! I haggled them to $50. 8" x 24"? Something around that. Just black painted alum tanks.

Ya, kinda like every lawn tractor comes with a chrome push bar. Keeps people from busting up the flimsy plastic hood. My 72 Cub Cadet has a cast iron grille on it. Ain't no tree gunno make a mark in it! The manufacturers are getting smart and offering a little bit of protection to the flimsy front ends(including the plastic bumpers on trucks).

Sure glad we missed it ALL!!! Heck I never even got the mower deck off my tractor yet!!! I'm sure I'll pay for it sooner or later. More then once I've been out in 12" of snow trying to get it changed over in the driveway.

Mine is ARD? if I recall. I printed the manual from online. I think it said mine were replaceable? I did the front bushings the next summer? Worst part was getting the bolt out(all rusted together with inner sleeve of bushing). I then burnt the bushing out. Used a long piece of threaded rod to pull the new bushing in. Worked pretty slick. Why I didn't do all that work before I assembled the truck??? Ugh.

Nothing like a big set of Nathan's to wake up the sleepy drivers on the road!

Just goes to show...them electric cars don't stop on the ice any better then a GAS powered car. Hmmmmm. (ya, I get the rear tire chain joke)

I "rebuilt" mine a couple years ago. The threaded parts were "ok" but the diameter where the bushing rides was like 1/4" under on diameter(or more). They were bad. I just welded them up and kept grinding til the bushing fit on again. I didn't take them off the truck, as I didn't rebuild the front bushing til the next summer? I also read about the pin that you could remove and install new threaded stud. I didn't want to open that can of worms! I was stupid, as I had the frame section all blasted and painted before installing on the truck. I wondered about those bushing but figured it was alright. Not. I should have taken them apart when it was sitting in the driveway all summer like this.............. I waited til I put the truck together and then fought with them. Ya, I'm stupid like that sometimes.

You can download them right to your post(see "attach file" below the post box), but the easiest is to download them to places like photobucket and then link pics here.

Oh, I ain't skeered to run it even with 180 hp. Just keep me on flat ground!! Now maybe I can pass on hills?

Well, we have PAINT!! From this: To THIS.............. Starting to look like something. Very close to being ready for installation.

Ya, miss those old paint schemes. Just can't get excited about a plain white or red truck. Blaaah.

Hey.......like here at work.........I'll be GLAD to tell you where you can stick it!!!!

Ya, figure out close to what you need, cut a radius piece of steel and tack it on the back. Kinda what they do with brake drums.

I still have some copper left in my truck(under the dash and things). Anything else I added/fixed went to plastic. I agree, get some of that cloth covering and hide the plastic if you are concerned about visual appeal. Not sure, didn't they put that cloth on most of the copper back when new Glenn? Or not everywhere, but just where it might rub.

Looks like a good way to fold up an ICC bumper?

I got a call from Steve Harvey. He wanted to congratulate me for winning the Lotto. Strange, I don't know how he knew I had the ticket???? DOH!!

The 237 bolt is grade 8 (denoted by the 5 hash marks on the top) and I'm assuming it is case hardened also? Or it is just black anodized? I'm betting it is case hardened so the holes in the flywheel don't beat through it.

I think my question got a bit off track. I'm trying to figure out what bolts are in my truck now(673 motor). It is not apart. I want to know if it is the same as the 237 motor I have in the garage. I am trying to figure it out before I tear it apart, that is all.

I've watched that show "how the lottery ruined me" or something like that. Stories of "fan mail" coming in large bags every day begging for money. Ugh.

I have dreams, but it would take 900 million to disappear from all the idiots that would hunt you down to beg for money. Just think of it. You would be a WORLD WIDE celebrity and that comes with A LOT of grief. I agree, it would take a private trust to try to hide it all from anyone. You just couldn't show up with the ticket and yell "IT's ME!!"

All I'm trying to do is confirm what bolts a 673 uses to hold the flywheel. I'm going to get a larger(3/4") in the same design. "IF" the bolts are the same as the bolts from the 237, then I'm good. I have the sample I need. If they are in some manner different, then I was just looking to find out now instead of after I pull the motor(whenever that time comes). Glenn, I don't really what to deal with putting a cable clutch in and all that. Just don't want to deal with it right now. It is doable, I have the technology, but I have too many other things on my plate right now to tear into that project too. I understand I'll have a better clutch, but I don't have the driveline to put up with too much abuse anyway so I'm good with the current clutch.

Ouch. Glad everyone is okay.

Don't have a home phone anymore. Only a cell. Last message was a reply to you yesterday at 3.33pm.

We need PICTURES! Videos!! Walk around? Drive around? Sumthin.

And that is why I asked. I don't want to assume it is the same as the 237 bolts I have. The 237 bolts have a relief cut behind where the washer is and the threads. Likely where the bolt will stretch when torqued. I'm kinda wondering if I just get a std grade grade 8 case hardened bolt and torque it will it be okay? I surely don't want them to fail. Just another "what if" scenario I've had running through my head for awhile. Typical car flywheel bolts aren't anything special, persay. Just case hardened bolts, usually with a thin head to give clearance for the clutch disc. These 237 bolts area actually a thicker head then normal.