Freightrain

Well, as I try to install my air assist I have been trying to get my pitman arm off. No avail yet. Have a fancy bearing puller but it is not beefy enough. Borrowed a pitman puller but it is actually too big and won't grab it enough(opening too large for my arm) and it just wants to spread open and pull over it. No one else has any other options. Last resort is buying a slack adjuster puller which I think will fit better(for $150). Ugh. I have everything cleaned up. New seal for the cylinder shaft. New boot for shaft also(courtesy of my old Rancho shocks). Really anxious to get this mounted and working.

I had a rubber duck model but don't remember which one? I know I pirated many parts to my r/c Moving On KW. I built most models from 10-15 years old so they weren't show winners. Wish I had the patience to build them now.

Looks to have had Viscosity Breakdown......

Ohhh those kinda twins....... They are nice too!

Lol. I agree, I hate smokers that flip them out the window. Of course now you likely hard to find a new vehicle with an ashtray. No excuse years ago. They are just to lazy to clean their own car out.

Sounds like unlike a car clutch which is all captive, a truck plate will basically fall apart when you unbolt it from the flywheel if you don't run some bolts to hold the hat and ring together. Interesting.

I can imagine he had that "just caught" aroma after that................LOL!!!

Video was just an accident but I thought I would throw in the old bucket challenge deal. Saw one guy use a front discharge mixer! I thought he would drown before the water stopped. Surprised there weren't more OSHA charges being reported.

http://www.dumpert.nl/mediabase/6589163/42d08b39/vrachtwagentje_laden.html

The Facet pumps I linked to have preset pressures. The smallest still has 25 gph, that's ALOT of fuel. Typically they come with two leads to be run on either POS or NEG ground.

That be "Year One". The restoration people. I remember them talking about it a few years back. http://ghostworks.yearone.com/the-burt-reynolds-edition-trans-am/ I like the original ones better. Buddy in college had a 78 TA, white/red interior, 400/auto. It was his parents car growing up. He did alot of restoration work during college. He was in automotive class so he did the motor and then pulled the nose and did the front end. I still like them, would own one in a heartbeat. Have to be a 4spd car though. The turbo cars? Ugh, with those goofy lights under the cowl scoop. Had to have a light come on to tell you that it was ON BOOST....cause you surely couldn't feel it LOL!!! Those 301 Olds motors......not my cup of tea.

Yup, that was my thought. They offer two lengths. The one I happen to have in the garage was too short.

I got it. Got everything cleaned up and bracket is mounted on axle. I am working on getting new boot for cylinder and new o-ring for shaft. Talked to Maradyne and boot is $75!!! Not in stock. I'm thinking I'll be doing some google searching for something comparable. I will be putting a shut off valve on it like I've heard talk before. Didn't think of using flip switch(like a tp1 or brake limiter), as I have an electric soleniod valve sitting on the bench from something else. But I like the air switch as it won't get hot from being ON all the time. Hmmmmm, thanks for the idear Jim.

Could you imagine trying to get workers to run this stuff today?? Without power everything and A/C to boot? Nothing would get built! I enjoy going to the spring show at Lakeside Sand and Gravel. You get to play with all this kinda stuff. Not bad for a day, but not sure I'd survive a work week!! Bit outta shape for that right now.

Yup, something like that. Never had any of mine off, but pretty sure you can just pry up on the little cover and get to the roll pin.

Hard to find one that isn't made in China. I just bought one for my Onan genset, it is a Facet brand. http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php

Ok, you will need to remove the little round disc at the bottom of the door(that is the window stop). You wil need to remove the 4 screws from the door latch. You will then remove the screws from the outer door handle and pull it out(might be tough from rust). The outside door handle is actually a piece of 1/4" keystock that goes through the latch mechanism and if crusty might be hard to pull out. You also need to remove the lock, that is the clip in the door jam area. Pull clip out slighty and then pull out lock out. Then pull clip the rest of the way out(don't drop it inside the door). With all this disconnected, remove all the panel screws(just around the outside edge) and you should be able to drop the panel down and out. Might have to roll window down just a slight bit to clear everything. It really isn't hard to do once get it figured out. Just had mine all apart last winter for a lube job. Here is what it looks like: (less the power window motor. I was trying to figure out a way to make them power) Put a little sound deadener on the door. Makes them "thunk" close instead lf "Twang". I tried the poor mans tar/paper but should have just bought Dynamat. I did put Dynamat on the floor and it helped a good bit also. My passenger side interior handle was sloppy. Seems the little spring was broke that holds it in the middle location. I was able to find one at the local hardware and get it back in working order.

You know Mike.......with talk like this...........we're not going to call you Superdog anymore. Your new screenname will be "Outlaw". Was that orange jumpsuit much worse then that Sunday goin-to-meetin' suit you wore back when you were fighting city hall? (I didn't spend the time to do a search to find that pic for comparison)

I see whe works her arse behind off trying to keep up with orders. I see she musta burnt her apron off trying to get her the buns out of the oven???

Come with oxygen mask for high altitude?

I'm partial to black and white LOL.

Strange size on the OD. Is the OD tapered? Hard to tell by the picture. I've got a complete column/box sitting in the garage, came with my truck and basically have it as a spare if the need ever arose. Is that bearing in the top? I suppose the steering wheel presses down and keeps tension on it?

Sadly we are the .001%'ers. Everyone else just sees $$$$$$$. Plain and simple. I hate to see it, but I do also understand not everyone has the same likes and wants.

Typical corroded dimmer switch on the floor. Give it a swat with your foot. Might shake it loose and it will work for awhile.

What about the person next to them> I woulda been on the HORN!!! Guess some people don't think that way?