Freightrain

It was talked about back when they did it. Was quite the ordeal for them to pull off, but sadly it was a Mack. It all started with "how to get cured concrete out of a drum". They started with hammers and then someone made a comment about blasting it. They tried a small charge and didn't phase it. Then they thought...."what if we really packed it with LOTS of explosives?"

LOL!!!! Presto-chango...............no more concrete..............

Pretty much typical B model. You will notice, like I mentioned above, the rear suspension is in two parts. The lower forward arm holds the suspension in place. The springs sit in pockets and that suppports the truck and keeps it tracking straight. To try to get all that to work properly and have it drop 5-6" will be difficult. Better to make a 4bar setup and bag the rear. All the travel in the world and no suspension binding.

Nice score. I like my 40ft race trailer, but something like that would be wayyy cooler to use instead. Just needs to be a belly drop furniture van to be more accessible.

Good looking truck!

Oh snap. Nice old unit.

Glad to hear Bill is doing good. Been a long time since I've heard from him and remember his bike accident. That is a good looking truck!

I'm just in the process of moving my secondary filter on my B model. Originally right up on the right side of water pump. I'm moving it to a bracket on the frame to make room for a/c compressor. It will be lower then stock, so it should not be a problem. The "original" fuel line came up drivers side, over water pump and down to fuel pump, then up to filter and back down to injection pump inlet. It will now come up passenger side to fuel pump, then up to filter and over to injection inlet. As long as the pump has good enough draw....the length and loops should not be a problem. Dang Jim. That 285 looks like it just fits in there just fine/dandy.

Wow...after not seeing that show for a few years, I kinda wondered what ever happened to that old Binder he had. I got to admit, I like the shorty tow truck look. It is following in line with a 70's hot wheels kinda look. Ezrider. Thanks. The truck will never be a show stopper. I just keep updating stuff as time/money allow.

I think, at least for the rear, use a 4 link or even just a three link(ladderbar), panhard bar and tall bags. I don't think the stock suspension from the rear of a B will give you enough travel even with one spring as a locator. If you look closely at your B, the rearend is held in location by the pivot pin(in the center of the spring pack) but the track location(and weight bearing) is held by the end supports. That is not going to give you much articulation. My Neway has maybe 4" of drop when I dump the bags, but it will not get it any where near the look of that IH. I'm betting that IH was not that tall of a truck to begin with(KB4? 5?). Not like the B model. Plus they used really short sidewall tires. It is all doable, but likely not use any of the original Mack suspension.

I've heard the good and the bads. Power steering isnt likely for me but this would be a step up. If it made it even half as easy to steer when moving slow I would be happy.

I will measure my drag link and compare to it. I have interest if it is in working order. Does it come with mounting brackets?

How universal are those air assists? Drag link the same as B61?

That would be a 4x4x4x4, right?

Oops, missed those Jim. I kinda wondered why I didn't find them.

Are you wanting original glass or repop plastic? http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_71&product_id=369 I bought them years ago when you could still get clear lense. I'm thinking this is the same as the R model parking light assy.

I've seen some big 4x4 style trucks use tall air bags to control height. Using a long 4 bar style suspension you could raise and lower it and not screw up the geometry.

Yup, rebuilt my drivers side way back when. Same thing, passenger door was actually stiff from lack of use. Drivers door was whipped. Got some generic HELP kit from Azone(think it was a chrysler?) and it works great. Just measured the pin and got one close. I did one hinge at a time so I didn't have to remove the whole door. I also resprung the hoop spring that assists in holding the door open. Keeps from getting whacked in the head when you get in/out.

Yup, I knew LP had less BTU, so figured it would take more to equal the power of diesel. It is ALWAYS about the all mighty dollar!

Nice truck and congrats on being able to choose your own.

Or these guys... http://youtu.be/-7MfHsLT9hY

I know many of the buses around here have LP on them. Is that any cheaper then diesel per mile? Or just "cleaner"?

Was a fellow that came to Auburn ATHS National with an R model with about a 4' x 5' x 8" thick slab of iron strapped over the fifthwheel plate. I'm guessing he was trying to get the ol camebacks to ride "better"?

When I drilled mine, I just used a Dewalt 1/2" drill and three bits. Small, close to size, and a reamer for all my 5/8" bolts. 12 on each side if I recall. Went pretty quick.

Just so you realize, air ride will likely not make a huge difference when bobtailing. I originally cut my springs down when I bought my truck to only 3 leaves on the rear. It still rode harsh without my trailer. With the trailer it rode nice. The biggest difference when I stretched it was not really the air ride, but the longer length. The ride was not so "bucky" due to the short wheelbase. There used to be a conversion kit, called Superide. Replaced the rear springs brackets. I've see a few over the years and I was contemplating using it on my truck til I wanted to stretch it also.