Freightrain

Remove that negative cable from the terminal. Is the terminal isolated from the case? Or is it just a stud? If just a stud, then it IS negative ground. On my truck, both neg and pos go directly to the starter. I would install a good, heavy ground strap to the frame(if you don't find one). If not you might find you have issue later with lights and the such. Especially if you rely on some rusty little piece of 16ga wire that is currently in use somewhere on the truck. Better safe then sorry.

Nope. Should be a nice flat pad on the side if it is a Mack transmission. Did you see the Mack script on the side?

Should have MACK cast in the left side, plus "Hypoid gearing" or something of the such. Like mentioned, it should have a milled flat spot in the front case with "TRD72" or the like stamped into it with like 3/8" tall letters.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Mack-B61-wrecker-project-or-parts-/301284531647?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4625f51dbf&item=301284531647&pt=Commercial_Trucks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Mack-F-700-Truck-/141381348481?forcerrptr=true&hash=item20eafc2c81&item=141381348481&pt=Commercial_Trucks Interesting for sure.

About a 4-5" square tube across the back, a hole in the bottom for the inlet. Pretty simple from the ones I've seen. Don't think any one I've seen was actually a muffler. It is a real simple way to put duals on a truck.

Wow...don't seem like a bad deal for the money?

Yup, the firewall is bad enough on a std B, I can imagine yours. Even with the smallest underdash, it will stick out about 6-7" past my dash. Livable since with the shifters there you can't do anything else with the space. I have a vintage revolving light on the roof so no room for that kind of unit(though I thought of them and considered it).

I know Vintage air has one, but I was given a link to a place in Texas that has one a bit cheaper. Not quite as flashy looking box, but I don't need flashy. Link is at home, I'll get it posted. The big issue I have to deal with is getting the compressor mounted. I need to move my original filter off the front right side of engine(likely move it to frame mounted bracket) and then fab something and drive it off the waterpump. Have to mount pulley to outside of stock waterpump pulley. Checked into DCpowersales. One of the rooftop units was 330w, which equates to 27.5 amps at 12v. Wow, that will put a load on an alternator.

Sounds interesting. Might have to google them up. I've got my eye on an underdash unit for mine someday.

Congrats!

Depends on the pump. I turned mine up years ago. It ran well but only got about 4 mpg. Once diesel got to $4/gal I dialed it back and get about 8mpg now. It is not as snappy off the light but gets me there. Just a light haze out the pipes under throttle. Never got fire, but never really tried. With no oil cooled pistons I'm sure you have to be careful. Don't have the money to put a motor in it so I keep it easy on it.

Last HCEA Nat I went to was at their place in Bowling Green, Ohio. Was about 10 yrs ago, had a good time.

Saw this at Syracuse '03 and still my one of my favorite B models. Just badazz. I still wish I could get the previous owner of my B to get me pics of his old trucks. He had a fleet of B's and some other BIG stuff(like Acars).

I tjhink it will struggle to keep up 75 mph with one car on. My GCVW is around 27K lbs and 65-70 is comfortable to run with 4.10 gears. Just runs outta power trying to keep up any faster speeds and it will not pull hills well. I can use my last OD and pass someone and run it up to 75 or so on level ground, but it just doesn't have the power to keep it there.

Would that be Marcels truck? http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/36563-selling-my-mh/

Welcome aboard. Nice truck, thanks for the pics.

A picture would help of your set up.

Just so you know, 4.00 to 9.50 were the ratios available, at least from the information I've looked at. I remember Highpoint Garage having a B model for sale with 9.50 gears in it. Yowza!!!!

I know that they flip gears around in a Roadranger, but didn't know they could do it in a Mack transmission?

That duplex is likely a 9spd, I think that is the version that has OD in 5th? The 10spd is direct in 5th. Mack built them either way. Check the side of the pumkin, it should have a number stamped in the side that denotes what it is. Probably 5.xx something. When I had 4.63 and single OD, mine would run 63-65 mph. Currently I have 4.10 and enough overdrive gearing to run 85 mph. It runs along at 68 at 1800 rpm and does well with my trailer. I too was concerned with over gearing and not having enough power to pull it. All depends on your terrain. Flat land is good, hills will really slow you down.

When you get the truck, find out if any of the other three adjusters are there. Then you will have something to get your information to replace it.

Typically, the oil pump has a pressure spring, that keeps a maximum pressure limit on the pump. I don't know the actual GPH a car pump is actually capable of, but I do know a good portion gets returned to the pan as the engine is running. "Most" car filters do have a bypass built in that allows for oil to get to the motor IF the filter would clog/fail. That is for the people that NEVER change them! That is the issue, what is "Bypass" and how is it being used in these engines. I would have to investigate the workings of our old system to see what does what and how. "I think" what happens is the pump is regulated for pressure but instead of extra oil just falling back into the pan, it gets filtered and then goes to the pan. Maybe? Does anyone really know?

I agree Mike. There are somethings that aren't.

Welcome. You might get better response with your question if you post it in the driveline forum.