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Freightrain

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Everything posted by Freightrain

  1. Freightrain
    Mine does not bypass per say like the big unit. It's like a car. Oil from the pump goes through a pair of filters( in parallel) and back to the block to feed the engine. Nothing else to it. The valve inside is for pressure relief only to control pressure fed to engine again just like a car engine. I suppose if you could find a filter head and plumb it to the two large lines it would work fine. You could then remove the small return line.
  2. Freightrain
    Well apparently the oil goes through the cooler FIRST, then the filter, then the motor oil galleys. Not a big deal. Just need to confirm where that "unknown" line goes? I think the rear(left side) of oil cooler.
  3. Freightrain
    I relied on Phil and comparing pictures through email. Felt pretty confident and it worked out in the end.
  4. Freightrain
    No, should only be one relief, in that housing. Pretty sure that unknown line is coming from oil cooler. My spin on adapter had the top portion bolted on, where the pic you show is just the lower portion. Basically the oil comes from the engine block at the lowest area of the relief block(basically because the pump is bringing it up from the pan). Then it goes through relief, then the filters(or visa versa), then back into the block to feed the oil galleys. The spin on adapter also will have an oil fitting for your turbo just like your current model.
  5. Freightrain
    Yes, take the four bolts out of that housing(pressure relief) and completely remove it. The spin on system will bolt to that surface. This eliminates the three lines(two big, one small). I can't see from the pics well enough but the oil comes out of housing, to the filter, from the filter to the cooler and then?? I can't see the cooler well enough(and my books are at home). I think your IN/OUT lines are backwards. Have to look at book to confirm. I think your "UNKNOW" line comes from cooler and back into engine to feed the galleys. OR, the fact the oil comes out of the front fitting and goes to cooler, then filter and back to block.
  6. Freightrain
    I posted my project on a few other truck forums that I used to frequent. I see you have an oil cooler, that will take into account also. Likely not needed since it is just a toy truck. Not sure how that comes off and if you can just bypass it? Yes, the small line just puts oil back into the pan. I just removed the fitting from the block and plugged it. Typical spin on will not have that drain line, unless like Glenn mentioned it is a 3 filter set up with a spinner filter. Which I would guess would do the same, put just filter oil back into the pan. My local Mack dealer had(got for me) the new plug to replace the block heater fitting. It was not a big deal to get apart, just some light heat with propane torch and a chisel broke it right loose. Wire brushed everything and installed the new plug.
  7. Freightrain
    Yup, I went off my big motor manual(it has nice pictures of all the mounting surfaces) and then pulled my filter housing and Phil and I compared notes. Mine being a very stripped down version I think made it a bit more of a needle in a haystack to find spin on filter housing to fit.
  8. Freightrain
    Likely won't take any new hoses. Just unbolt all the crap from your existing set up and bolt on the spin on. Only thing different is you have oil pressure line to turbo. You'll have to plug the drain line into the bottom of the block(small line from your old set up). I pulled the brass fitting and put a pipe plug in. "IF" you have block heater, you may have to remove it. I did, as the new filter set up bolts up snug against the block and my heater was installed right there. Once you get the heater element out you will have to finesse the old fitting out(I heated and hacked mine out with cold chisel. Then a new block plug to replace it. Old mount: (they are o-ring and was pretty crusty after 50 odd years in the block) new plug: screws in with new o-ring.
  9. Freightrain
    phil@globaltrucktraders.com 603-239-7008 Yours being a turbo will likely be easier to match up.
  10. Freightrain
    Sorry...........as I went through this crap years ago. Mine always took forever to get pressure after cold start up. Same situation as you. I pulled the drain back valves out of the bottom and cleaned/polished them(nounted to dremel drill and polished the cups with scotchbrite) to make sure they worked better. Seemed it was okay for a few weeks and went back to 10 seconds to get oil pressure at cold start. Ugh. I mentioned it here and Phil(counterman6 is his screen name) from Global Truck Traders Anyhow, he contacted me and told me he had a spin on unit for me. We confirmed everything and he shipped it. Bolted it on and works like a charm. It has to be motor specific. Mine had no turbo and no oil cooler. He had an R model with apparently a 711 with no oil cooler and no turbo? Only thing I shoulda got was the down draft tube. The one for spin on is different then the big full flow and I had to "massage" mine to get it to fit. Oh well.
  11. Freightrain
    Everything is for sale, for a price. Glad it is going to a good place.
  12. Freightrain
    full flow, three lines out the bottom.
  13. Freightrain
    When you got the right tool for the job...............everything is easier.
  14. Freightrain
    Mine was just a round O ring. You could just drain a bit out of the cansiter and take the lid off to see. Or at least just remove the clamp and see what is in there. Not much to pour the oil back in again.
  15. Freightrain
    Back in the 80's every 4wd was jacked up! It was the cool thing to do. Then the 90's went backwards due to enforcement of bumper height laws. There are a few monsters but not like it was.
  16. Freightrain
    That would be a cool thing to see. Those trucks just amaze me.
  17. Freightrain
    Friend used to run FPPF years back in his truck. It ranks up there pretty well.
  18. Freightrain
    I put Power Service in mine every few tanks. Get the qt size that does 100 gal and split it between the tanks(2-40gal). I have to admit, it does seem to give it some "umph" in the power dept. Not drastic, but it does pull one hill one gear faster then without the additive.
  19. Freightrain
    Slack adjusters come in a variety of designs. You will need length(from center of spline shaft to mounting pin of brake chamber) and spline information(number of teeth and diameter). Picture for reference:
  20. Freightrain
    Ahh, I see what you mean. It was on Fleebay.
  21. Freightrain
    I see missing slack adjusters.
  22. Freightrain
    Don't think there are any patch panels available for these(at least anymore). I put a new floor in mine 13 yrs ago. Plain 16ga steel. I've posted the pics before, I can dig up the link if you like. Back of cab/mount area is also typical problem. Again, just some basic fab work is needed. Watts should have window rubber and glass. I'm sure your local glass shop could cut you some if you have good samples since it is all flat.
  23. Freightrain
    Not sure what you are asking? About the timing advance and throttle controls?
  24. Freightrain
    King pins should be easy, once you get the axle number(F505, etc). Brakes? Never had to deal with them, but if all else fails, having them reshoe your originals is possible.
  25. Freightrain
    $3500 for a running, driving, workable Mack tow truck> No bad in my eyes either. Electrical in these old trucks is not much of a problem, per say. As long as some hacker didn't get in there and just start cutting stuff!

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