Freightrain

Bumper or is it the grille shell sagging?

Just have to roll under on a creeper. No big deal.

Sorry, I forgot to look this weekend. Bought the time I was heading to bed last night did I realize I forgot something! I will get home tonight and get some pictures.

I used a slacker adjuster puller to get my pitman arm off when I installed the air steering. I bought a few others that didn't have the beef to do it. The right puller and a smack with a BFH and it fell off. These steering box resemble one from Cub cadet. Rebuilt one before,this just a bit larger! My air steering is a bit flighty sometimes on curvy roads. Like mentioned it is similar design. Beats Armstrong steering! I have a spare steering box for my truck come the day it might need help.

Ya, it will just show continuity with that meter. If the big wires aren't smoking, then likely not dead shorted. Either bad brushes, commutator or bad solenoid. Start with the easy stuff first. If daring enough, use a big fat insulated screwdriver and jump the two big terminals. If the starter spins, then you know it's the solenoid. If it just arcs, then bad motor. Do at your own risk! Just saying. Doing this on a car starter is not a big deal, but a truck starter is a bit more juice.

You are getting continuity from the left post to ground because that is the power lead to the windings and they go to ground. If you had the proper meter it would give a specific resistance reading for the windings. I've never personally had that solenoid apart so I can't confirm or deny what you will get once you pop it apart. I know the basics of what it should have to function.

I'm working with Kevin All to get some newer pieces for the B. Tip turbine parts to be able to increase power a touch AND a 16713 transmission to relieve the old triplex from active duty. Was going to just get another triplex and get it rebuilt but it still is limited powerwise. He has a 16713 which will not have issues with my power level. I likely will end up removing the little Spicer 6241 also. It is starting to leak and it also is power limited. The 16713 is double OD so I will still have pretty long legs. Top gear should get me 1500 rpm @ 65 mph. That is basically what the Spicer does for me if I use that OD. But 1500 rpm makes both of the boxes grunt under any kind of load. I don't like hearing those kinds of noises from 50 yr old transmissions that aren't rated for this much torque. It's all in the slow works. Not sure if it will come together before racing season starts and don't have the time to tear into it.

I can look at mine this weekend. Hopefully in the near future I will be upgrading mine to a 16713. The old triplex is just whipped.

The red is the hot from the battery which connects to one side of the contacts inside. The yellow is the lead into the windings of the motor. The small wire is the coil to the solenoid which when powered pulls the contacts closed and connects the main power to the windings. Sounds like the contacts are burnt in the solenoid, which would make the starter not run. That is the flash you are seeing. Or, the motor is bad(shorted) and the flash is the high current when applying power to the bad motor. Removing the screws, there is a spring loaded plunger inside, so be careful that it doesn't pop apart and things fall out. Yes the block side bolt is a PITA to get out. Either a box wrench and just 1/16 turn at a time or swivel socket and get out enough to use a rachet. Besides it weighs a ton to hold onto. My B is a real bitch because it is a lower right side starter and it falls in your face if you don't get a hold of it. Reinstalling is another WTF moment.

So see if I get this. The turbo was on putting boost back into the oil drain tube, into the engine, this showing blowby. Bad turbo seal was all it was then, correct? Just a bit cheaper then head gaskets!

Seems this came around again this year? All is well now.

On my HD Softail, my inner thigh muscle get sore holding my legs inward after about an hour in the highway. Darn near need a rachet strap to go longer LOL! My B model with 237, 4.10 gears run 1800 rpm at 65 mph gets a solid 8mpg with trailer(30k total).

Sorry to see this Dave. Hope it goes to a good home.

Looks pretty solid. I agree, in today's world $8k isn't bad. My guess, she inherited it in some way and wants it gone.

Gave it away!!!! Someone came away laughing and it wasn't the seller!

There was a fellow a few years back that bought a bus and used the whole driveline for his B. Front/rear axles (hydro boost), motor/trans. He did have to narrow the front axle to fit . B's are pretty narrow. All mechanical, no computer if you can find an old enough bus. I'll try to find his build, there were tons of pictures.

Likely to keep spammers from doing mass posting all over the forum. You have to have like 10 posts to add pictures?

Skid steers are around 7k lbs depending on version. Moving my friends on his big tag trailer it pulled heavy, similar to my race trailer(14k lbs). To get around some of the legal logistics, maybe a juice brake S series International chassis with a B cab put on? That could get you under CDL issues and still pull okay. Ex Uhaul chassis might be a cheap buy? Might want to get a mechanical Dt466 or 12v Cummins to get away from electronics on the engine. I know someone with a S series pulling a race trailer. It's governed to like 52 mph. Dealership can't do anything for him. It was a local Chemlawn truck, so never meant to go fast. Most any B will be gear bound without changing the rear axle. Most built to go 45-55 mph. Mine originally would go 65 mph flat out, but many don't. Most 2 spd rears aren't really fast either from my experience. Marginal at best. Finicky also with inexperienced operator.

So a recording of a dog barking that goes off intermittently should take care of that? Gas is cheap now but Opec says they will cut production to raise prices(go figure). When Karen and I go out to eat it used to be $25+ tip. Now it's $40+ tip. Same basic food we get at our few usual hangouts. We don't drink, so that really keeps the price down. Alcohol will double your bill in a swift second.

Id say 330" overall just guesstimating. Wheelbase plus one tire diameter, plus half the distance between duals, plus frame behind rear tire. 242+ 44+5+3=294+ what sticks in front of front axle. 30?". So maybe 324"?

I cleaned/polished my check valves in my full flow, it built pressure quickly a few times then back to 20-30 seconds. That is why I changed mine to spin on.

Here's Jeff and his Federal with enertia starter.

Why have them separated? Don't want a crossover line? I'm not sure I'd want fuel just sitting around unused. If you draw off both it will keep the fuel fresher. My .02. Here is my pyro/boost gauge

There are a couple variations to that block plate and likely gaskets to match. I swapped my original 673 NA to spin on and had to get correct mount for "non turbo" motor. A turbo version should be easier to find. I used my motor manual book and reference what my block looked like once I removed the full flow plate like you have. My 673 did not have oil cooler and that is another option.