Freightrain

Have to get number for you. Stock turbo that was on it. I did have bearings/seal put in it a few years ago, just because it was inexpensive and something I won't have to worry about for awhile.

Don't recall if it was square? You would think a regular round one would suffice. Even if not available from Jacob, you should be able to come up with something online. Measure the bore that it fits into and work backwards.

All buttoned up. Just need a warm day to open the door and give it a test. All never seized up. Put a touch of high heat paint on it. Not sure how long that will last? Looking good. Went together with a nice firm snap of the seal rings. There were slight wear marks in the mating parts but that won't hurt anything. A nice simple project.

The C engine is rated at 250hp, but it is a thermodyne and will need more then 5 spds. Under a load it will really struggle to recover speed at 1100 rpm when you shift. It needs to be around 1500-1600 rpm. On a hill it will really hurt it. I was really hunting for one of these motors to replace my old P motor for many years. The 237 showed up and I went that way instead. It has its own issues with being ahead of a Triplex(single countershaft transmission). You can't lug it down to 1100 as it will try to spit the gears out. So I drive it more like a thermodyne.

Oh, I was super delicate. My fall back plan was making a new one out of cast iron(I work at a machine shop, so that is not a big deal). But saving the old one was my main plan. I was wondering if they still had tension and I was careful with the heat by aiming it on the inside of the tube as to not untension the rings. They popped loose and look just fine. Yes, there are slight grooves on the mating pieces, but I think it will seal pretty well as is with the rings back in floating condition. I have the grooves cleaned out, the rings float nice. I'm going to paint the casting with some high temp paint from work and then never seize the rings and out it together. Should be a major improvement. My back up plan was getting some automotive rings in the correct size. Looks to be std .093 wide rings. I was also concerned about using a glue that was too stiff(like a manifold paste) seeing that this does float between two objects that expand/contract a lot.

And the reason I left mine alone. Lol. Can of worms I didn't want to open.

Seems to me it is a metal seal. My 237 wasn't leaking and I just crossed my fingers and didn't mess with it. So far, so good.

Been having leakage for a few years and wasn't sure what I could do about it. Didn't try to see if Mack still offers parts. I had it apart last summer and the seal rings were rusted solid and this leaked. My last ditch effort was to put some hi temp red rtv on it. It sorta worked for a short time but by end of summer I could notice exhaust odor in the cab with the windows down. If the windows were up with the A/C on it wasn't so noticeable. I pulled it apart yesterday and started to work on loosening the seal rings. Some light heating and tapping with a small ball peen hammer started to loosen the small ring. I drizzled some oil and PB blaster on the ring and it continues to loosen to the point I was able to remove the ring. It still has tension, so it will work again. I started on the other end which took a bit more work to get loose. It finally came loose and I brought everything to work and sandblasted the pieces. I will put the sleeve in a lathe and using a small tool be able to clean the grooves enough to get the rings to float again. They fit, barely. Once they fit well I will smear some never seize on the grooves, install the rings and reinstall the sleeve. I hope this eliminates my smokey leak.

Ugh, scammers. Tons that that crap. So tired of it. It is always BS. I used to save those phone numbers to my phone as "no answer", that way when they used it again, I know what it is. Had a call last week from a fellow. I didn't recognize the number but it was local so I answered. They guy says " what do you want?". I was like " Ah who are you". Apparently a scammer used my number to call this guy. I explained how it works and we parted ways.

Sounds like someone jeery rigged something on that left side one. The hand throttle is always twist to lock. If not, it won't hold well. Might be worn out? Damaged?

No matter, the transfer is never seamless. If you have automatic, it sees the lack of incoming power, trips transfer switch and starts genset. Once it sees incoming, it shuts off genset and resets tranfer switch. You always have to reset clocks, etc. I remember back 20 sum yrs, i was the only house in the neighborhood that was lit one night we had no power. Like Paul mentioned, some people shouldn't mess with power. Trying to run a house on a single 15 amp cord?? Oh geez! I ran a 30 amp twist lok into only one side of my breaker box. Enough for furnace, frig, and a few lights. With only 30amp genset, that is good enough to survive on.

G'day........

Racer friend has 1k Honda and he fired it up to run his battery charger. I let out a groan and said " We don't have to listen to that stupid noisy thing all day do we?". We laughed. You had to put your hand on it to know if it was running. Another scenario, a racer one day showed up with a 6500 screamer and aimed the exhaust at my trailer. He rolls his car our and promptly hooks up a battery charger. I was like WTF? Car was at home for a week, why would you need to charge it now?? I have a large awning on my trailer and my buddies all congregate under it. When that racer finally shut that generator off, we all stood up and clapped. Strange....that racer moved the generator around to the other side of his trailer. Hmmm. Annoy someone else. He had a $40k racecar and a $400 generator. I hate those kind of racers.

There was a B model budd front axle w/brakes that sold at ATHS convention auction last summer. I missed out, but know who got it. I told him I want first dibs if he doesn't use it. I've been looking for 20 yrs.

Good news!

"If you think my face looks bad....you should see the gravel pile I hit it with....." Lol! I try to sneak around with minimal lights on, but I see myself getting more clumsy every day. I tend to turn lights on now!

Is that a quiet genset or a screamer? I don't to listen to a lawn mower run all night. Don't want my neighbors to hear it either.

I got on Onanparts.com and parts are sketchy at best. Could get real pricey if I have to do valves and guides. Might be able to fudge some of it? Not sure I want to tear into it?

I used to frequent that site. Two pistons/rings won't be too bad. Machine work these days is not cheap. My friends shop where I get all my stuff done will help in costs. I rebuilt a 10hp Kohler in my old Cub cadet for basically nothing but piston/rod. They even balanced it for me and ground the valve seats for new valves. I suppose I could check prices on parts and go from there. Only real wear part is the points and they don't have electronic conversions for the older BF models. I just put points in it this past fall. Like $50? Geez. Need to check slip ring also. Makes good power but you never know if it is near the last leg. Ive always wanted to find a diesel version so I could just run off truck tanks. Buddy build me a 12 gal gas tank to hang on truck.

I've got an Onan 4k rv unit hanging on the B for trailer power. I never have got a cord made up to backfeed the house for the day I might need it. I wouldn't mind finding something a bit larger for permanent house duty. The 4k does well enough for the trailer a/c or microwave. The motor runs okay, but being a 1978 model, it does use oil a touch. Love to rebuild it but likely too costly and better off getting a cheapie Harbor fraud model like everyone else?

It never hurts to ask. That's how I got my B. Owner been asked plenty of times but it was my lucky day and I got it. He threw me a reasonable price and I agreed to it.

Rear axle, swap it( add air ride too). The front will take more effort, depending on what axle it has. Like my axle(FA517) has no budd hub that can swap to it. Been there, tried that. Not sure about the lighter front axles. Finding a B model budd front axle is slim pickings unless you get lucky.

Hard to see the picture. Maybe the nut is there but the sleeve was broken off. Should be able to unscrew the threaded nut easy enough.

Zooming in you can see the notch for the tab on the cable. Likley the cable broke and was just taken off?