Freightrain

I think the term here is "rode HARD and put away wet"

Has anyone notice the slight deletion of cookies PER box? They keep making the package smaller and smaller and smaller. Not a happy camper, though the grocery store does put them on sale quite frequently. I try to limit myself to just 6 ciookies at a sitting. Big glass of milk and I'm like a pig in mud!

Note to Maintenance. Repair order: one new flood light. cost $30. one spray can white paint: cost $5 two new DOT stripes: cost $3 Repair order: One new truck: cost $150,000. DOH!

I need to get over to Russo concrete. They have a fleet of U's sitting there with mixers on them.

Vlad sounds like your safety valve is popping off and releasing air from the tanks. They are right on the tank, and could be weak? Usually they are suppose to be up around 150 psi before letting off. Not saying it couldn't be the govenor?? Mine only leaked enough to be heard after truck is off. Then it had a slight hiss coming from the end where the snap ring is at. I think that is why truck drained air pressure so quickly anymore. I did have a air release sound this past summer, running down the road, never sitting still. Just a quick "hiss" and would never affect air pressure gauge. Never at cut in or cut out pressure. I searched all summer for that noise. Not sure, maybe this had something to do with it??? Won't really know til next spring when I get truck out and run it again.

Ok, got home with parts and put it together. Works NICE!! Doesn't leak after shutting truck off(you could hear it before). Two o rings(1.25 x .093) for a grand total of $0.87 You can see the top one I had to break to get off, it was hard as rock. A shot down the hole. I did wipe it out, but it was clean, no sludge. I few drops of oil on the o rings and I slid it back together and installed the snap ring. Not bad for a few minutes work and less then a $1 in parts.

I hung my new rubber in the "installed" manner to get it more into shape(by a couple hangers, so it hung in a rectangle shape). It was all bunched up in a box, so it had no shape.

I used 3M putty strips cant recall but come in blue box. Put strips around pinch weld area and then press gasket over. Getting glass in is tricky and cant say what is best/easiest way. Lotsa cussing getting last corner in. If I recall I worked outside first then worked around to center strip. Didnt crack or break it so it was successful!!! I paid local glass shop the $15? for putting in lock strip. Easier for them with the right tools and experience.

Well I'd just get a new one but if all it is wrong is o-rings then for less the a buck it will be fixed. Nothing much to it and I've heard it leaking lately(getting air past the o-rings on piston). I will find out later today and I'll report back. Might even take a couple pics. Mike, the tanks stay dry with no oil from the rebuilt compressor and doesnt see alot of temperature swing since staying in the garage. The govenor was clean inside as it pulls off the junction block on firewall so it doesnt see oil or water. The heat I applied was to soften the rubber so it would seal better. Seems to help when they are worn out and cold.

Well, it was right at 11 yrs ago I got my first drive in a B model. Bought my '59 and learned to drive a triplex on the way home. Took quite a lot of trips around town to get that figured out. Here it is on a Saturday trip to lunch with friends right after I bought it:

Well, it was starting to act up the last couple trips out. Fire truck up and it would not want to get over 30 psi. Give the motor a couple revs and it would then continue up and run fine for the trips. Was wondering what was failing. Went to get truck out of garage Sunday morning and it wouldn't get over 30 psi, period. Played with it, tapped on regulator, but to no avail. I pulled it off the firewall and pulled it apart. Seems okay, but two o-rings were not looking good(kinda flattened out). I oiled them up and tried again. Nope, not making air. Ugh. Seems maybe some heat might help(it was only 40* out). I got my little propane out and waved it over it for a few moments. Presto- it starting climbing air pressure. Whew. I was trying to get race car transfered into garage and needed the truck. I pulled it apart again this morning and am going to run up to store and get a new pair of o-rings for it. Should make it good to go for another 50 yrs?? WIth other guys having issues with theirs, I guess after 11 yrs mine had to fail. Oh well, at least I'm not stranded on the side of the road.

Yup, steering gearboxes are made so they have a "tight" spot when straight ahead. Helps keep it going straight. There is an adjustment for this. When mounting tires, place a hammer or a chunk of wood down next to the tire and roll it. Tighten the nuts and watch for runout. Adjust as needed to get it as true as possible. If you can get it closer then 1/8" runout, you're doing good. Takes finesse. I had to adjust my toe in once I got new parts. It had too little toe in and had a shake as both tires tried to steer the truck going down the road. Once I got it around 1/8" toe in, it now steers smooth at 70 mph. One finger control running down the highway. To get it really good, I rotated the tires and watched for wobble. I watched carefully and found the midpoint of each tire and marked it with chalk. I put this chalk mark at the hub point(horizontal) and measured toe in. This helped take into consideration of the wobble. Working from the "middle" makes the difference. Getting drag link on the box correctly is a good thing. Bought an old Cub Cadet tractor few years ago. It would turn fine to the right, but took the whole yard to turn left. Come to find out someone had the drag link off and had it all adjusted wrong. Once I centered the wheel and got the link adjusted properly the tractor now turns on a dime each way.

Yup, went through this last summer when I replaced my tie rod ends. I figured they be like a car (LH and RH). Wrong, they are different pitch so they change length as you turn it one way or the other. Strange way to do it, but it works.

Try Adelmans truck parts. Here in Canton, Ohio 330-456-3130 Or Phil (counterman6) at Global truck traders. Good guy to deal with. 603-239-7008 Does it have the same thread on each end? I know the B's are fine on one end, coarse on the other.

Did mine way back when Easiest king pin job ever. I was used to Ford pickup twin I beams and beat'n my brains out. I had less then 3 hrs on getting truck totally dismantled(starting at ground zero). If I recall the passenger side was the bad one. It was just the roller bearing, no damage to the spindle itself.

Sorry I'm late. My condolences to Jay and his family.

I had a piece scanned 11 yrs ago and had it custom mixed. Don't recall the part number(have to dig out the can). Did my heater and it matches perfect. WOW.......anyone notice all the B models in that picture??

Welcome aboard. Pretty nice looking C. Yes, you could just stick a 12v battery in each side and likely will start without too much issue. Plenty of guys still have 12/24 starting, but if you plan on using it regularly, then swapping it to 12v is a better deal. Install an alternator and change it over to NEG. ground so regular accy's are usable. I fought with my truck the first summer with original series/parallel switch, then switched it over to 12v starter and run two 12v batteries.

Motorboat'n or Beachball'n?

That ol Cheby is owned by Dan Renovetz, here in Ohio. Member of NEO chapter of ATHS. The truck just got a full body off restoration and is near back together, haven't seen it since last fall? Not sure Dan comes on this site, but he floats around on other Diesel sites and is a well versed DD guy.

Nice!!!!! Boy would I LOVE to restore my cab like that. Ahhh, jealous as heck.

We have clearance, Clarence. Roger, Roger, what's our Vector Victor?

Happy Bday TeeBerry!

No problem Jim. Glad to be of assistance.

I still have that album AND the receipt from buying it at Radio shack($3.11 including tax). Top is missing, so don't have the date I bought it. WTF?? Sometimes I hate Photobucket.