Freightrain

I, like Ken, went to test station that rents you a truck/trailer. Ya, hate to pay the extra $150, but better then dealing with getting someone to drive my truck home(you can't drive a commercial vehicle after test...you have to wait to you get your printed license). I got the book spent a month or so reading through it to get ready for the written test> It was all multiple guess, though they do try to trick you with the way the question was worded. I passed, then waited a couple weeks and called for test. Tada.....I got my Class A with air/tank endorsements. When taking written, they told me to take all, as it doesn't cost anymore and you might need them. I didn't study doubles or hazmat, but missed each by ONE question each. Not bad? After dragging my 40ft race trailer for 10 yrs, I knew I could pass the road test. Their truck was a little Binder with 466 and straight 5 spd. Very short, very easy to drive.

Here's how I did mine: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/16282-adding-air-ridestretching-frame/ Bolted it together, with about 5ft of overlap. Got near two years on it now and no problems.

Hmm, an R model in Chicago that isn't rotted to the ground? Looks like a decent truck for the money.

Can't be any worse then running a bobcat with foot pedals?? Only ran one Extendahoe, it was about 20 yrs ago. Pretty sure it was 4 stick?

Doh!! ya, I knew that LOL!! Thinking one thing and typing another. OH, don't worry. Never get pics of the g/f. She avoids cameras like their the plague.

Woulda, coulda, shoulda............but didn't. Was only 2 rows up and was at the 125ft mark. Too much excitement(and short skirts to see) to take pictures. Heck, I mighta tookn the rong pichure by meesteak and the g/f woulda bin pretty upset wid me. LMAO!!!!

Went to Randolph county fair Saturday night and watched the pulls. Lots of classes, Tractors, semis, 4wd modified trucks. Macks did really well in pro stock semi, but unfortunately the winning Superliner had a KT Cat(ugh). They didn't announce what the other two macks had in them, they were a team effort. Had some real unique stuff there: a late model 60 series Detroit in a tractor. The alcohol triple turbocharger tractors were kick'n butt. Had a 73 yr old guy run out the back door on the test pull. They kept the weight and he ended up winning class. They sound bad azz coming up to the sled. Saw a fellow I know from using same shop I use for motor work. Apparently he did well in stock tractor class Friday night. His ol Continental engine won class. It was the g/f's first real pull. She had seen them, but not up close and personal. She got a real kick out of the semis. Though I don't see her financing one for me LOL!

Guessing the factory doesn't want to rate it higher then they want to(and have you complain if you blow it up). Or get caught by the green weenies that complain about smoke and you say "the dealer set it up this way". Doh! Get your license and enjoy what you got. If you feel you are underpowered.............come drive MY truck! That will make you DAMN happy with what you got.

Very cool. Back in the early 80's I had a '66 Cub 100. I had all kinds of plans of bolting a 302 Ford/automatic in it. Had nice framerails(sturdy), plus the rear axle had 5x4 1/2" bolt pattern which meant I could put car rims/tires on it. Sadly it never happened. I do have a nice '72 149 Cub I use for yard work. Still love my Cubbies.

Well, one day and I had 3 NOS studs/nuts/washers in my hand. Got it put in Saturday afternoon. Got it out today and went for a quick spin with the trailer. Nice and quiet!! We're good to go(for another year or so). Got spares for when it does it again.

I remember that "new" R model. Cool stuff.

Glad to hear you are back at it. That will give you a boost!

The driver is still sitting in the cab!!!

Got some studs coming. Hope to have them first of the week. I'll take'r for a little spin to make sure all is okay. Bought a couple extra for the next time around LOL!!

3 weeks?? Heck, I'll have my ol B over pronto!!! Shouldn't take you long?? Looks good. I too like those ol 4200's.

Man.......wish I had a fresh new cab to put on mine. I'm envious as heck! Nice work.

Lil wax and she's ready for the road. No mind that rotten fuel tank strap LOL!!! The moss gives it that "Fresh summer breeze" aroma.

The Cuyahoga Valley Line here in my area used to run steam back in the 80's-90's. I have a button, "I rode behind 4070". The engine is owned by Midwest Railway preservation society. http://www.midwestrailway.org/#./images/1.jpg I was up there this past spring at their open house. Very cool stuff, I have pics of 4070 getting a rebuild. I'd love to join up and be part of it! It is just a haul to get there and I don't seem to have enough time for my own junk let alone that. Someday. The Cuyahoga line now use one F and ? something else to move their cars from Canton to Cleveland. One at each end, depending on the direction they travel.

Don't worry Glenn, I'm the ONLY stud she can handle LMAO!!!! Talking with my motor machine shop owner yersterday, he was stating that likely an A460 head stud would work(it's 9/16"), but not sure lenghts yet. Mack part calls for 6 3/4" Just talked with R&R Mack, Jeff did some soul searching and came up with a pair of part numbers. One for $10, the other was $44? WTH? The cheap one was for 36 bolts, the other was 32 bolts. Mine has all 9/16, so we're thinking it would be the cheap one. The 32 count would likely be for the bigger 5/8" in the corners. He also has my axle seal in stock(ouch, $167). Mike, I'll confirm part number and let you know the damage. Not sure if you want all of them? Likely not enough around, as he checked parts availability and only few here/there in system. Might need to look into ARP if you want all? ($44x32= $1496 yowza, where 36x$10=$360) BTW, on the air ride. I was able to weld and grind the rear crossbeam pins and get that fixed up last winter. I was able to get the front arm bushings out pretty easy. The RF was toast and that was the reason for the looseness. I was able to just torch the rubber out and cleaned the hole with a cup wheel on air motor. I then used the long mount bolt to install the new bushings. Was pretty simple actually. Couple big washers, some never seize and lube for the bushing. Couple seconds with 3/4" impact and the bushings were in. All in all, it rides better. The bad shake is gone. I then readjusted the toe-in and that helped with the shake in the steering wheel. Still not 100% perfect, but much, much better.

Pretty sure the updated motors(711) got 5/8" studs in the corners. I've only broken two, both in the corners. I'll be checking into new 9/16" studs tomorrow, I'll post back Mike. Ron, are they 9/16"? If things go awry I might take you up on the offer. I'm also going to check into maybe ARP fasteners. Might be pretty pricey for all, but maybe at least for the corners.

Back when I still had the Mack long 90* turnout, I went to start the truck on the morning after stayng the weekend at the racetrack. Not thinking, my buddies mustang was right next to it with the window down> You can guess the results. I splattered the inside with black soot water(DOH!!!). I really like those Mack 90* turnouts with the miter cut on the end. Very retro. But I also like my straight 4" pipes. I'll likely get flappers for them, and turn them sideways so the wind doesn't hold them down.

Depends. Lotta show trucks that like the angle cut exhaust use coffee cans to cap them(most have them covered in cloth to not scratch things). Have seen them with handles built in so you don't have to climb up to install them. Personally, I have two gallon milk jugs I cut the top out and slip down over the pipes if I need to leave outside and chance of rain. I only do it to keep all the wet soot crap from blowing all over everything. Had to do that a few times over the years and on a white truck it makes a MESS!!!!!! Actually I like the look of rain caps. Been contemplating getting a pair of chrome ones for mine. I hope it moves enough air not to just clank all the time!

Well, things aren't so bad. After going out this morning and poking around....................I found another broken stud. Rear head, front left corner. Nut was laying down in nook of intake. I wasn't able to spin stud out, so I welded a nut to the top and used a rachet to spin it out. Stud looked pretty beat. 9/16" stud, so going to check R/R Mack in Akron as it's close by and the parts guy knows me from getting B model stuff over the years. Guessing, like the rear one 2 yrs ago I should be able to torque it back down and be okay. I didn't run it hard so I got my fingers crossed. Hopefully dodge another bullet? Gotta say, no matter the ol dog does get me home everytime.

Thanks for the input Glenn. My only problem is lifting the heads off together. I do still have my buddies Bobcat, so maybe I can use the forks and rig up a way to lift them? The bobcat isn't too gentle when it comes agility. Kinda all or nothing if you don't work it very, very slowly. Going over some ideas in my head, this might work. I might work on getting the exhuast nuts loose before putting the head back on(much easier to work on the floor then over the fender. I'll snug them to pick up the head and put it on the block, then loosen them to torque bolts. Not sure if new studs are available? Should I look at getting new ones if I can? My only other trick is getting valves readjusted. Not that I don't know how, it's just doing it. It's not a typical V8 that you can simply bar over with the plugs out.

It was just two years ago Labor day I popped a rear head bolt coming home from a race. I limped it along for 2 hrs and made it home. Was told by a few people just stick a new bolt in and it will be fine. I did and was pleasantly surprised it was good. Well, sorta. Step up to yesterday, I was on my way to a race, had just pulled a grade going about 55 mph, holding about 1800 rpm. Just as I was going to roll over the top and dump it back into OD, it acquired a ticking noise. Slow, rythmic, only under heavy throttle. Oh crap. Wasn't heavy enough for bottom end, didn't make sense for valvetrain. It has apparently blow out the head gasket in the back where I put that new stud in. I was able to limp it home, though it was midnight when I left, I told my traveling buddies to just head out and I'll just take it easy. It was chirping pretty bad when I first left. It some how got quieter as I got on the highway. Once I made it home, it was really quiet compared to when I left. Not that it's fixed, but strange how it is not as bad??? Anyway, seems like I get to pull the back head and put a gasket on it. Not looking forward to it. Likely remove the hood to make room. I think I'll drop the exhaust manifold off fully, so I can get the rear head off without taking front head too. I'm torn from doing both anyway? just because it's apart anyhow? I'd like to find a full set of studs to replace them all. It is just a matter of time til another goes?? I've got til Sept 1st to have it roadworthy as I have a double points race.