Freightrain

Welcome aboard!!!

If I wasn't so horrible with remembering names, I'd know him better then by just Mack mhe9.

Oh, ya, forgot about the o-ring. Yup, hold top down firmly and snug the nut down(not too tight, remember that paper gasket). I thought mine was "taken care of" when I bought it. Finally one day it started to not run well and would not hold speed on the highway. I took it home and pulled the filter out. Holey toledo.........it hadn't been changed in a couple centuries. Thus all the crud. Once I chipped the crud out, the bottom had rotted away and the crud was holding it together(and not leaking) LOL!!!

Like this: I'll agree with Randy, as I'd have to go out and look at my stockpile to see what the part number is I run. Get ready to make a mess, there is a plug in the bottom/side to allow you to drain it. There is a thick cardboard gasket under the top nut when you unscrew it. Remove the top line, then unscrew nut. It's spring loaded, so it will pop up and drool fuel down the sides as the lid come loose. After a couple replacements later, that gasket fell apart and leaked like a siv. I dismantled the fiting and replaced it with something comparable. Clean out the bottom if there is anything. Watch, as my original canister was packed with crud and when I tried to scrape it out, the canister was rusty and I poked a hole in it(DOH!!!). Lucky I was able to get another canister from previous owner that had parts. Thinking back, I should have just removed it. I have a nice separator style filter mounted next to drivers tank to "pre filter" it. Now this canister hardly gets anything in it.

That air cleaner is UDDERLY rediculous.....................LMAO!!! I can see this going in the CRAPPER real soon..........................DOH!!!

Ya, one 40ft'r is enough for me right now. I could fit that lil 32ft'r off to the other side when I'm done with my tree removal mess. My neighbors like me now. With that sitting out their back door...........maybe not such much????

Neat trailer Tom. Like to have it myself. (no apparent reason, but it is cool) For the money, but surely take some money to make road worthy?

Well, the road trip yesterday(about 300 miles) showed that I have narrowed the issues down with the truck. With the rear suspension fixed up and the new alignment I have really smoothed it out. I ran it 65-70 mph all the way there/back and it really is driving much better. The wheel only got a slight shake to it occasionally as speed changed some. Besides that it rolled along nice. I did get to stretch it's legs some and showed up some late model stuff(to smiles,waves, and thumbs up) as I wound'r up to about 75 or so passing some wide loads before getting off my exit. BTW, I did some mileage computation from last fill up and guess what?? 11.9 mpg!!! Not bad for a 50 yr old truck running about 28K lbs. I usually run 65+ mph, and that's about 1800 rpm so it really must like it. Don't have to hold it WOT to do it, like when it was geared for 65 and I just held it to the floor.

Yup, 6041. Sumthin like that 5 x 3 x 4= 60! Actually not. The splits on the box are about the same as my compound, which makes it double redundant. I use it in Direct for 99% of the time. The lo-lo hole is nice for backing up. The OD gives it really long legs.

Looks like someone needs to do some straightening up?? Brush hog'n? I remember quite a few of those trucks through the years.

Don't look hateful by the pictures. The trailers look "ok" too. Don't look rotten to the core? Sandblast, paint and some wood? For scrap price it might be worth it.

I had the bottom replaced on one of my steel tanks many years ago at Barberton Spring and Radiator. Couple years ago I had a leak around the tread plate. I pulled the tread plate off, drained the tank down below that point and welded a 1 1/2" wide strip acrorss the corner. Put step plate back on and some black paint. Presto-chango no leaks.

Be a neat toy for dirt playing days at Brownsville?

Second vote for a bent pogo stick.

Like this?

Ok, as a follow up to my original post about how the truck would shake itself apart about 55mph or so. Last fall I replaced the tie rod ends and that seemed to be an improvement. They were in bad shape. Still didn't fix the real problem. Step forward to July 4th weekend and I tore into the rear arm bushings. I spent a few days trying to get them out of the truck. I got the rear cross arm off easily enough since I had that off last winter and fix it. I ran into issues getting the front pivot bolt out on the passenger side. Had Drivers side out. Passenger side was stuck solid. Even with my new 3/4 impact and lots of heat it wasn't coming out. I then went to work on the bushings under the housing. That was another disaster in the making. I got the bolt out, but getting the steel bushings out of the ends was NOT happening. Heat and chiseling was not working. Had a few people give me hints but to no avail. I then went back to work on the front bolt. With some work I finally got the bolt out. The bushing was completely toast, the inner sleeve was in pieces. The bolt was worn down in the middle from the bushing beating on it for the last ? years. I got the front to drop down out of the brackets, I torched the old bushings out and using silvo glide I was able to reinstall the new bushings using he existing bolts and some large washers. Worked really well and with little effort. Didn't need the fancy Neway bushing installer thingmabob. I then just lubed everything up and put it back together. I have the bushings for under the axle, but not going to worry about them. After a test drive I realized it was definitely better then before. I have used it on two road trips and it surely rides better with minimal "bounce" that it used to have. It was never really bad with the trailer, but noticable. Tonight I got out there and rechecked my toe in. I worked on it back when I did the tie rod ends. It was close, but I knew it wasn't "right". Trying to do a backyard alignment on wobble wheels is tough. I spun each wheel and found the middle of the wobble(only 1/16" or so, but enough). I then checked across the inside tire tread line. Surely it was about 1/8" toe OUT. Not good. I readjusted the tie rod til I got about 1/16"-1/8" toe IN. I then took it for a quick trip up the road. Got up to 55mph and it really is much, much better. The steering wheel doesn't get that shimmy feel to it anymore. Just barely if you let go of it, but it doesn't jerk your hand back/forth if you hold on to it. I'm sure I could get a real alignment done on the whole chassis now. Something to look into later. I've got a road trip this weekend, 120 miles away, so that should be a good test to see how it does with the trailer.

Mike, nope samo samo ol Bostrom seats. Got mine recovered years ago with some breathable fabric instead of that stink'n hot vinyl. Jim, actually it is all painted up now. I put the rubber hose back over the main box lever. The aux shifter is all painted satin black and looks smooooth. Guess I need to get a good shot of it completed? It's doing well pulling trailer. It will pull 65 mph easily at about 1800 rpm and run with traffic. I did try the double OD once with the trailer. It was a level run and then downhill and it ran up to 75+ mph as I just had to prove my point to this idiot in a 4wheeler that screwed me on the uphill grade. Given time, I will get around ya........LOL!!!!! I rebuilt the front bushings in the rear arms over July 4th holiday. That helped.

Hey....what's wrong with THREE sticks??? LOL!!!

Once I popped a stud in my 673 the other summer, I heard all my trucking buddies tell of they times they always had spare studs for whatever they were driving at the time just for fixes like that.

Glad it all went uneventful for the most part. Yup, loading on top of that crest really puts ramps at a steep angle. Sometimes you just gotta fight it. Friend had a '77 Gold Edition bird, had it completely redone. Very nice car. He stuck a early 400 in it(had to fudge the motormounts), honeycomb wheels, etc. Always will like those cars.

I've seen upgraded versions with rear dump(like a walking floor) that are used for paving big roads.

I R a trukdrvre: For $250 you to can become a truck driver. As long as you stay on big roads, only have to pull a single 28ft pup, drive an automatic and never have to back up?? Of course, if all the trainers look like this??? Well, duh.......sign me up LOL!!

The problem with the newer vehicles.............is they keep "modifying" them til whatever they are working on don't last more then a week. Then they go on to the next part. My sister used to work for Team Mustang(FOMOCO) in Detroit. They'd be given a part and told that they had to make it 5lbs lighter and $10 cheaper to make. They'd do that every year til that part is so over engineered it never survives because it's weak(butchered to nothing). Typical, very typical.

Here is a shot of Stans other Superliner(E9 powered) and his E9 CL: I got to drive the superliner around the parking lot last fall in Cleveland. Just waiting to get my chance to take it for a long ride.

My Mack pictues: I came up on this leaving Peterson Heat Treating on Mogadore Rd. I didn't realize who it was til I got up next to him. Yup, Stan Leman. He owns the E9 Super I posted a few years ago. He also owns a CL E9 too.