Freightrain

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Musta been the blue paint? Lol.

Ya, the clamp is pretty flimsy. I've had to replace the wire lug. I bought a few much bigger replacement clamps for our other welders and I got two magnetic clamps. Kinda handy for large flat work or sticking to a weld table and won't fall off. Ya, everything is inverter technology and even my local service guy suggested I don't buy the 255 for home unless I use it constantly (I don't). He says you don't want it sitting around for years and it suddenly crap out with only a few hours of use. The boards inside are all one so there is no cheap fix. You have to buy the whole mother board, not just a simple power board, or hi freq board for a hundred dollars. I have a very vintage 220 Millermatic mig machine. Just a big transformer,a big contactor, and some cables. Nothing to fail. The transformer has taps you just move the positive cable to the one you need. Friend gave me to use 30 yrs ago and still going strong. I want tig at home, thus the dream of the new machine. Another friend has an old Miller tig machine he will sell me since he got a good deal on a big power supply. It too is just simple and been reliable since he bought it new.

We bought a 211 about 6? Yrs ago at work, just for me to do maintenance work, fab stuff. It is a nice machine, they had rebates going and I got a new helmet and the alum spool gun for it. I haven't used the spool gun yet. I run .035 wire in it and have the largest tank on it. Bit top heavy, but it is all we have here and I wasn't going to get short tanks just for this machine. I'd love to get the 255 multi machine for home. Its got everything, mig, tig(with HF start) two tanks, all the accys. Just don't care for all the electronics in it and the mileage it would get at home would not cover the cost to fix it when something stupid fails. The 211 at work gets regular use.

Just my .02 You want to swap from electric clutch to air? Why not use an air solenoid? Use computer signal to actuate the solenoid to turn on/off air to the new clutch? Or is there a lot more to it? Seems like it would work. Not so much if you were swapping the other way.

I forgot my wallet that day and couldn't afford to pay attention......LOL.

Whatever you do, make sure the airlines are hooked on the correct side of shutterstat. Ask me why! If backwards, once the shutters close the valve will be stuck shut and won't open the shutters until you drop the air off from the feed line. The truck will tend to overheat.....duh! When I put my old shutterstat in the 237 it turned another 1/2 turn and I just screwed the lines on and didn't notice the "inlet" marking. Doh.

You can just put air in the system and they should close when the engine is cold.

Top front of accy drive should be the engine model.

Ya, I used that to drill my frame when I stretched it a few years previous to the engine transplant. Its gear driven, slow, and a torque monster. Right up until I knocked it off the frame while drilling the holes and broke the trigger portion of the casting rendering it useless. No parts for that old girl. Had to buy a new Dewalt 1/2" drill to finish the job. Did fine and was 1/4 the weight!

Most all factories install the engine/trans all painted and assembled. That is why most hoses and all little pieces are engine color. They aren't worried about "detailing" like a restoration would. I hate hoses being painted! I painted my 237 gold while sitting on the floor. Then I installed any new hoses afterwards. I used just regular automotive spray bomb gold.

B61"3" denotes a turbocharged 673. Front Axles difference: Both are grease. I think they are different weight axles, thus different caps.

With my little aingle axle, when I have flipped the wet road valve it really kills the braking power overall. I've tried it on occasion on an empty road.

Is be curious to see what the actual gallon size my tank is? It is an alum tank from an R model. One of the larger ones I've seen, length wise. It's hanging under the bunk in my signature picture. I've see ones that are near 1/2 as long as mine.

I can get 8-9 seconds of cranking on a full tank. Since mine lives indoors all winter I haven't had the need to see if it will start in the cold anymore. This video, I only had like 80# in the tank to start with and it starts faster then you can release the button. I may, just for giggles, leave it out in the dead cold one night this winter just to see how it starts, unaided.

Notice the cold air version, the tubes are side by side. Most of the tip turbine air cleaners the tubes are up/down.

I just looked at a picture of my truck with the engine out and the TOB cross shaft is across the bottom with the tabs sticking upward to grab TOB. So if you see the cross shaft, it is a bottom picture. Mine had no CB. It does take 4-5 seconds to get it in gear after the clutch was released in neutral. If it takes 20 seconds, then it is not releasing far enough. There is a sequence to follow to get it set up properly. I would start with making sure the TOB is not riding the levers with the pedal all the way up. That would show it is not riding it/causing it to slip driving down the road.

I put air assist on my truck a few years ago. Some people hate it, I say it's better then nothing. It has its quirks, but overall it is fine. Like air starter, you have to maintain it to a degree or it will cause grief. I put air start on mine also. New valves, new lines. Works like a charm and holds air for 6 months without a problem.

Ahhhh so. Thanks. At first I thought it was something I did but spoke with fellow BMTr on Sunday and he was having issues also.

If you leave the twin disc clutch? Mine had single disc, so it bolted right in.

There's an understatement....LOL. Looks like a Beast!

Anyone else have issues getting on here for a few days? It showed problems and my phone suggested I not continue.

The 673T is just 205 hp. The ENDTC is 250 hp. Neither have intercoolers. Non turbo 673 is 170-185 hp depending on which intake it has. Bobtailing you won't really notice much. My old 673 with no turbo would scoot along quite well.

Bob, TRT is a triplex. TRQ would be quad box. I don't know the number designation for big or small boxes? Yours would be TRTL. The "L" is for lightweight (alum case).

No issues with my 237 install. I have right side starter. I put a 2 filter spin on the old 673, so I knew the 237 would fit fine.