Freightrain

Those will leave a mark............

Nope, pretty easy change out once you get the right set up. I put a spin on set up on my 673 last winter and it's nice!!! Only issue I had was I had to remove the block heater as it was in the way of the filter casting. Not a big deal, just a small hurdle. Barry sent me a new freeze plug and I was in like Flynn, cause I don't need a block heater anymore anyway. Didn't have to change anything with oil pump. Note, mine does not have oil cooler or piston coolers. Phil at Global truck traders contacted me and set me up. Parts showed up all nice and clean already. He goes by "counterman6" here on BMT.

I'd say someone parked her in the bush some time ago. Makes you wonder what's hurt or if they just gave up?

Stan Walls sent me a shifter for the aux tranny. Had to fab up a mount for it, still need to detail things a bit. A lil close to the passenger left leg, but I'll be moving the shaft some: Plenty of room for shafts to come back: A shot to the rear: Also got some interior work going on. Have a local upholstry shop doing some sewing on stuff so I can finish up the bunk. Hopefully see that stuff this week.

Fixing the wiper motor is no big deal. I had mine off a few years back and cleaned it up. There is a switch back valve on the end of the motor that is suppose to toggle the air to move it back/forth. If it's gummed up, it won't(and will only run one way). Just make sure you mark the air lines so they go back on the right spot. There is one that is the main supply, make sure it's not faulty. Mine started running really slow. I replaced that one line and now they dam near throw themselves off the window. The dash valve is another simple fix. Getting it off is the bear, then it's only a simple O-ring to fix the leak. Don't tear up the paper gasket that is between the body and rear cover. Mine was good for a few years, then I know it's one of the reasons mine airs down so quickly after shutting off engine.

Shoot, you all can actually walk AROUND your truck while in the garage. I had to butcher my garage up too, cut 12" off the stacks and have to suck in my gut(and I don't have one) to get around my truck while in the garage.

Cool stuff!

Kinda like the "BCR" trucks(a B model into an R model). One question: Did they have left side starter back in the 60's. I'm thinking it's a 2 stick 6 spd, not a duplex. Someone might have slipped that old motor in to replace a blown up 237? If it is a 6 spd, I bet it's a real dog with that ol 180 hp motor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110681093078&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en Pretty cool. Wish I still have all my scrap bin stuff from when I was really young. Love to build this and duplicate mine.

I used plastic on the rear axle of my truck when it was still spring(don't move much). I can see air ride being more of a problem, and I used rubber on it now. Heard it was illegal.

Ah...come on.................just wrench it back on with your back LOL!!! I did(and still paying for it). Front hubs aint bad, the rear assembly is B R U T A L!!!

Looks like a great lil show Tom.

Yup, Dan has some really nice stuff. The LTL he has is awesome!

Hmmmm, no shot pulling Greensburg Rd hill?? Hmmm, wonder why LMAO!!!! Sounds good though.

I like "Red heat", think we've gotten it from Mcmaster Carr? Comes in 5 gal bucket and works wonders on most anything. Used it for years cleaning machines at work. Cut it with water, or spray it on full strength for the tough stuff. Don't think it's good on "nice paint", but anything else is fair game. When I blew the rear seal out of Mack, it covered the back of my white bunk with splotches of grease(Yuk!). Small bucket, sponge and Red heat and it washed up nicely. I'm googl'n right now to see where we got it.

I can hear that guy now..............."Get off my lawn"...........(as in Clint Eastwood in Gran Torino).

Had a great time at the show. Met up with tons of people, and the constant rain did not put off the attendance. Unfortunately the only picture of Rob I got was late Friday night after dinner. I think the few beers hit him a bit harder then he thought they would.............. Got home okay, but not without issues. Seems my NEW hub seals FAILED on the drivers side and it puked it guts out all the way home. I had stopped in Van Wert for fuel to find grease pouring out all over the tire. Ugh. Guess I have to pull that side down again and see what happened. I just returned that 4" socket to my buddy while at SB. Guess I need to run over to Orville and pick it up AGAIN. Geesh..............but at least it made it home(only a little messy).

Cool beans! I'm coming over Wednesday, at least so far. Getting an early parking spot!! Bringing my race trailer as my home-away-from-home.

We've all learned that anyone that is in the public eye does NOT have to follow any rules(of common society). Yup, let the man upstairs deal with them later.

I'm thoroughly impressed with your skill and going the extra mile with the little details. I have a little information to offer. I took some pictures of Stan's V8 Superliner a couple years ago. You'll note the shifter DOES come up from between the seats, not too far forward. It's a E9/500 hp truck.

Someone stuck a set of tandems under it sometime in it's life. Worse things have been done! My truck is titled a '59(door tag), though the frame is serial numbered somewhere around 1962-ish. So, if the split manifold came out around then, that is why mine has it. The picture in my Mack off highway repair book showed the 707/711 with a single intake and spin on filters. Revision in back states 10/79 for book TS442.

The emblems on the side were always just the basic model number(like yours 600), then the last digits denoted engine/chassis style( "09T"). "T" is single axle tractor, if it was "ST", it would be a tandem. The "6262" is the consecutive serial number. Since it's on the block, it's likely the original motor. Have to agree with mike, the split intake makes it look like a 673P(like mine too), but maybe the 711/707 came with that intake also? It's apparent it's a non turbo motor, so likely 200 hp(as shown in my Mack book). If you look closely down at the front passenger side of motor, the casting by the front of the accessory drive(in front of injection pump), you'll see the motor number stamped across the top. Just walk to the front of the tire and look and you should see it easy being a tilt front end.

I think it was the lastest Northern Tool catalog that showed one of those hammer smack grease breaker gizmo's. Thought about getting one and trying it. I've got an Alemite grease gun and it's been a workhorse for alot of years. Rob, bring that gizmo to SB and I'll giv'r a shot. I'll try to remember a grease gun too.

When you get it all figured out, come on over and get the springs out of my truck LOL!!! Left front looks kinda beat and the rear bushing won't take grease. It's on the "to do list" for someday.

Shifting hint on big trucks> You have to run it up on rpms, then shift. Wait for the rpms to drop down about 1000 rpm and then try to slip it back in gear(when only shifting the main box). You can't force it like a car(synchronized trans). The splits are only like 300 rpm drop. Might find it easier to not use the clutch to "feel" when it's time to slip back into gear. Run it up to 2000 rpm, ease off the throttle and pull it out of gear, as the rpm drops about 1000 rpm, start to feel it back into the next gear. Be ready to get it IN when it happens or you'll miss it. If so, just bump the throttle and quickly try again. If the truck slows too much you'll never get it. Believe me, I had a RUDE awakening when I got my truck and trying to figure it out(and I'm a real stick shift kinda guy). Just takes time/practice. Go to Youtube and watch my shifting videos to get an idea of the timing.