Freightrain

Well, it's 1/2 of me and my B LOL!!!! (not sure why it looks so shiny??? That picture sure does it A LOT of justice) HAT....whatcha wipin' off your screen?????

Well, we now have THREE handles to choose from.......... Had to build it with a big kink to allow passenger room to make it to the bunk. The shifter is right in front of the seat and if I had a straight handle you couldn't get around it. Took it for a spin, everything works well. Need to pull it out and put some paint on the handle. Need to recover my main stick as I cut the rubber hose off to be able to heat/bend it straighter. It had a kink in it and really didn't need it and wanted to make more room for third stick.

Nice find. What kinda fuel mileage will you get with that V8?? How many miles on it?

You trying to get budd hubs? You have the same axle as me, and Barry and I went round and round years ago with a few people trying to see what hubs crossed over. I gave up, I have all the bearing sizes and spacing wrote down. 10 years and still looking.

Guess Im lucky to not have any friends?

Mine started doing the same thing this fall. There is a set screw with a hole in it that is seeping ever so little. If i flip off emergency its fine, but then i have to plug the air lines. By chance a buddy from ATHS forum has one and is going to get it to me. Ive had mine apart, it looks fine, all lubed up still. First time I activate it then it starts to leak.

Not really sure, I'm thinking there would need to be a handling test to be sure LOL!!! I'm Freightrain, and I approve this post!!!!

Ya, they mentioned this on the ATHS site. Apparently an ATHS fellow from out West coast is doing the driving. Apparently he isn't a Mack kinda guy too LOL!!! Mack donated the new truck for the job.

I had a front shock arm bend up as the upper ball/socket fell apart allowing it to drop down and get bent around axle. There are no real "shocks" on a B model, just these oil filled dampers(like a model T Ford had). Kinda a friction thing with an arm that attached down to the axle by a rod. I replaced both rods with typical Heim ends and threaded rod. The mounting hole was 9/16" so the 1/2" bolt I used with the 1/2" heim ends has a touch of slop. I was going to work on making bushing, but never got to it(go figure). I cranked them down tight and seem to still be tight. I also removed the "shock" and put some oil in them and I was able to make them move. I'm sure they aren't perfect, but at least they do move. I know one rear bushing is locked up in the spring mount, I've been wanting to tear it apart and fix them. LF spring clamps are blown off and the pack is puckered up. Sure that is not helping things. Mine still has a slight hop to it, but nothing like before I replaced the tie rods ends. Not sure if you checked yours, but get a big bar and pry UP on tie rods and see if they are loose. Mine didn't seem bad til I put a big bar on them and realized how loose they were.

Oh, I don't think the 673 is giving up soon, but I want more power(arh, arh, arh). I'd love to find a nice 250hp version(endt673c), as they were built for triplex use. Wouldn't complain if someone gave me a 237, but don't want a lug motor. Buddy tells me to find a 300 for it................sure, why not?? I think the 250 will move it along very nice and not beat up the driveline.

Good looking truck. I love the square nose, instead of the rounded off stuff like most new ones are.

Most common soleniods are either 3 or 4 post. The two big posts are the switched power(in/out not critical). If it has only one small post, that is the keyed postive to activate it(grounds through the bracket of soleniod). Does it click when you activate the controls? Even if it does, the points might be burnt up and not make contact. If you can find a jumper wire, touch between the two big posts and see if something operates. Watch for large sparks depending on the current draw of the thing you are operating. If jumping the two post makes it work, then you need to replace the soleniod.

Go figure LOL! Talk about too many opinions and political crap. I think FB is alot of peoples soapbox and why I dont get too involved with it.

I have no problem having people expressing their point of view. No matter how wrong they are...................

Pantera, as for welding, yes it's usually not recommended but in most instances is doable. The newer 'high tensile" steel used in the newer trucks has warnings all over it. If you weld to them, it tends to get brittle, thus allowing cracks to form if it gets twisted. There again it depends on who welds it and how it's done(proper weld rod and preheating). I was lucky enough to bolt my together so I don't have any of those possible issues. Mine is also more of a toy and won't see 80K lbs again in it's lifetime. slpwlker, I don't plan on using the aux for much other then slow moving when I'm backing up. I was surprised that it doesn't give me as much reduction as I was thinking, but any is better then none. It moves a bit too fast(in direct) for my taste and I don't like riding the clutch while manuveuring. There again it's a very lightweight box so I don't want to push it hard either. With my old 673 I'm not too concerned but when/if the time comes I put more power in it I will be more careful.

Sounds like something I wanted to do with my pickup 20+ yrs ago, before twin sticks were "cool". Not that difficult to do, start with the ZF 5 spd(or whatever they use these days) and find a small spicer box to throw behind it. They are out there if you look in the right places. I suppose if you wanted to go "bigger" you could find a baby quad box, used behind the gassers. If you get on Youtube and query Detroit diesel pickup you'll find a fellow with a C20 with a 4cyl DD and a twin stick set up. Pretty good video showing him shifting it.

I just installed a voltmeter instead. Took a hot lead right off the key so it only worked with it on.

Im working on making the handle presently. Kinda hard to make room for THREE sticks and NOT have them get wrapped around each other LOL! Plus make room for the g/f to get by into the bunk. Geesh.......Im getting there. Then the fun of trying to learn to drive it. The aux doesnt shift as precisely as the main boxes as I have found out. Maybe next spring Ill make a video???

I think most that frequent BMT wear big boy pants. I cant recall ever having any real problems.

Lobo, like Mike mentioned, you hit the "strike thru" box above your first sentence. This happened: hello, so you need to make sure you don't hit that box with the "S" in it. For your radio, you will likely need to just reverse the two wires. Red will go to 12v source and the black with be ground(body). Your AMP meter will need wires reversed on it also or it will read backwards.

That's an oldie. I still remember the one scene where Burt comes driving in on three wheels with Jim Nabors hanging out the opposite door to balance it. Was thumbing through Youtube and was watching the end chase scene from "Corvette Summer" . Come to realize that they pass an old LTL Mack on the highway puling a lowboy? You can't really tell what it is at first til they give you a screenshot through the windsheild and you see the dog on the radiator.

I priced a pair of steers at near $900/pr a month ago. Cant recall if firestone or yokohama? Ouch.

I think someone left out a zero or two......... Love those LTL's

Nope, too rounded.

Nope, no air ride seats. Maybe someday. She doesnt plan on messing with the interior, lucky me.