Freightrain

When building my motors, I usually slip some feeler gages inbetween the rods to keep them tight and aligned on the journal. Keeps from cocking the cap or bearing when pulling on it with a torque wrench.

When I took mine out Saturday for the first shake down............she was pouring coal(black and some blue) pretty good since it was cold blooded. Once I got it warmed up, it cleared out and the smoke wasn't so bad.

Leave the compound in a gear and just shift the 5 spd. You'll be tool'n along in no time. Just bobtailing you don't need alot of gears to move it. Sounds like a turbo motor? Lotsa smoke too!

Tadaaaaa...... Finally got it finished up enough for a road trip today. I didn't take the trailer, but did hook up to make sure all the electrical is still up to snuff. Truck rides really nice, no squeaks/rattles and doesn't buck you around anymore. Can't wait to really stretch the legs on the highway as I only got up to about 55 mph on the road out from the house. It's a speed trap anymore so I didn't want to push my luck running it out. Still some little things to finish up, but overall the big work is FINALLY done. Can you hear the sigh of relief in my voice?? LOL!!!

Yup..............those too!!! LMAO!!!!

I give her ALL the credit...........she's spent 4-5 hours bounc'n along(in that little jump seat) to where ever I'm heading with nary a noise(can't hear over the exhaust/motor anyway) LOL!! She even asked to watch DUEL one night right after we met. Bonus points!!!!! She's a keeper for sure!

I've ALWAYS wanted a 6x6 B model..............they just look soooooo cool jacked way up like that. What a monster that would be to cruise around in LOL!! All looked priced to move too!

7.25 5.45 4.16 3.12 2.34 1.75 1.33 1.00 1.04 0.78 There is a link somewhere for the actual listings for all the transmission ratios. I printed it off a long time ago(where I got the info).

"Bunny" posters?? Um, well, don't think the g/f will be too pleased to have to look at "that" while riding back there LOL!!! It's more her room then mine unfortunately. She says she'll drive, but don't think we have the time to get anywhere in FIRST gear only LMAO!!!!

How it is now............

Well, after working in the rain Saturday I got a few things done. Got the generator mounted up on the drivers side and the battery box welded on the passenger side. The bunk is about ready to bolt down for good after I make a few metal bushings this week. It sat out all night in the rain and no leaks around the boot(ya!). Have to do some finesse on the rear fender mounts this week so I can get them on. Nothing has been an easy bolt on, everything needs cut/welded/machined/refitted, etc, etc, etc, etc, Only have a couple more weeks to get this done for good(at least the outside). Will take some time to get the interior stuff done(like making panels and covering them with matching vinyl).

I did just order another plug from Barry and installed it after getting the block heater mount out of the way. I first cut through the lip to remove the loose mounting ring behind it. This gave me a bit more room to work. I tried just "unscrewing" it, but that was useless. I tried a big cold chisel and baby sledge but it just started cutting the insert. I didn't want to crack the block so I grabbed my lil propane and warmed around the block for a minute or so. With a few quick hits, it moved and unscrewed itself without much fuss. A quick workover with a wirewheel to clean up everything I lubed up the O-ring on the new plug and screwed it in. I then made a wrench to tighten the plug. It's a big screwdriver looking slot, so I took a piece of 1/4" flat and a large adjustable wrench and got it in nice and tight. So far, so good.

Mmmmmmm, donuts......................

I like it!! Looks very good all hooked together.

RH drive would be pretty cool around these parts. Really different. Heck, the tires are "black" so that means they are worth sumthin' LOL!

Yup, should be at SB without too much hassle(ya, right). After fixing the leaking oil pressure line I fired it up and got it out again to be able to sweep up the mess around/under it. Still a long way to go with little stuff, but getting there.

FIXED!!!!! Got the leaky line to the guage fixed yesterday and PRESTO-CHANGO there is full oil pressure. Hit the key and it went right up to 50 psi, so now I can relax and work on other things.

Lindsey did an ATHS VHS tape at his place with a couple of his trucks. The blue Pete and the big Mack dump.

I got the gasket for the spin on set up from Mack(590gb1298b). My original set up used 590gb1109b(if I recall correctly). The gasket rhasler shows is for the bypass filter, not the full flow version. The gasket has no issue at all with proper pressure. It just connects the two parts and keeps it from leaking. All the relief valving is inside the housing. fifthwheel, I did enough research and comparing of mounting pads, gaskets and ports that I'm pretty sure that it's good to go(if I get the leaky line fixed). The U model that it came from had the exact same mounting configuration(includin lack of oil cooler and piston coolers), the ports were in the same location as mine, so I can't see why it won't work. I know I have heard/seen others that have done this conversion, only never knew what parts to get.

That is what was on this filter housing when I got it. I need to pull the dash and see if I can change the fitting on the back of the gauge(if I can't find parts to fix the copper line).

Fred, I only replaced the big canister with this spin on set up. Engine always had great oil pressure. BTW, air compressor was rebuilt about 8 yrs ago? Used to pump oil BAD.....doesn't put a drop in the system now. Anyhow, today I did find an issue and it might be the root cause? Won't know til I find parts. I went out today and found a stream of oil/water condensation on the floor under truck. Didn't recall that being their yesterday but with the doors being opened and the floor starting to sweat I thought it was inmaterial. BUT, I thought I'd start it one more time and recheck things. It fired, gauge went to about 25 psi(better) and so I quickly looked over the cowl to see and saw a stream of oil spurting out of guage line. Oops! Seems there was a fine hairline crack in the copper pipe back under the old cloth covering and I didn't notice it yesterday. Today it really burped out so I shut it down. Unfortunately it's 3/16" copper(WTF?) and no big box store carries it(only 1/8-1/4") so I can't fix leak til I get to Cross truck sometime this week. I really hope it was just a leak in the line that was causing the low reading? I hope, I hope, I hope.......

Yup, same pictures in my book. I matched the existing gasket when I got the new one. I then installed it while matching up the ports. I see the note where the "tab" is on the right side. Guess tomorrow I'll make sure it's correct. I had dreams about this happening.................and sure enough.....grrrrrrrrr. I gave the bracket to the parts guy to get the proper filters for it in hopes that would go right.

The valve at the bottom? Not the one above the filters. I inspected everything before installing, it's mostly visible. Looked clean, but didn't try to move the piston as no way to do it beside removing plug on outside. Guess maybe I should have?

Ok, I finally got my conversion completed today. Quite the ordeal, with lots of little hidden issues I had deal with. I got the oil changed and cranked it up. I left it crank over a bit before I let it fire up to get oil moving. Things went down hill from there. I can only get 15-20 psi at idle and it won't really budge over that if I do a quick rap on the throttle. Don't want to do any damage so I didn't let it run long. I know there are two bypasses in the housing(one on top, one at the bottom mount flange). I don't really know how I could test them? I did look at my Highway service book and the END707/711 only lists 20 psi at hot idle. This is what the housing came from. My truck had a cold idle of 50 psi, and about 20 psi hot. Anyone have some thoughts on what I should look at?? Hate to have to mount up the old full flow canister again.

If you look at the front of the injection pump area, there is a part number that will tell you what it is. It's on the casting of the accy drive at the front of the motor.