Freightrain

More progress: Got the back of cab all welded up, Predrilled holes for the bolts for the boot, Started on framework for enclosing the front of the bunk in some, Got some detail work before I paint the cab. Picking up some dum dum sealer for the boot tomorrow, got stainless steel bolts coming for the boot. Will start on the matching framework for the front of bunk next. I also started on front bunk mounts on frame. Had to pull existing stack brackets off to make room. This coming week should have things moving along again.

I'm still cornfused. What powers the box forward? The pup trailer? Then what power the trailer as it's never hooked up to the truck when transfering? Or is it when they stick the two prongs of the pup into the back of the dump body, does it get power that way???

I am older and wiser now, and am looking for a girl with big tits. Got that covered this time myself. The rest is a mishmash of all the rest LOL!!!

Sumthin' you can just hop in and run down to the corner store for milk in........... Cool!

I wish I could do that to a few people around our shop. Have a few guys that stand around with dumb looks when something needs done and they don't want to do it. Our S/R guy WOULDN'T run a towmotor!!!! Ya, sure enough, he didn't want to, said "he didn't feel safe". So they had to pull a machinist off to load/unload trucks while S/R guy watched. Huh? Finally proded enough to finally get him to run the towmotor so he could do HIS job!! I've spent the last 25 freak'n years at this place doing ANYTHING to make sure the doors stayed open and I'll be damned if I'll watch these idiots screw it up. When asked what my job description is, I tell them "I do everything but sign the checks". Step up or get the heck out!

Love how some places "just throw parts at it" , til hopefully something makes it run right. Alternator? Did they use a voltmeter to check to see if it was working? Likely not. Fuel pump?? Did they put a gauge on the rail to see if it was holding pressure?? Likely not. They simply guessed, twice, and were wrong on both accounts. They apparently don't have "techs", only "parts handlers". Why don't they start with the cheap fixes first? (oh that's right, can't make money on them).

Had a local racer pass away and they opened the dragstrip(winter time) for one last trip. Thought that was pretty cool. Feeling old, but still wayy too young to be thinking about funeral plans. You never know though.

LOL!!! Ya, it sucks anymore. Last summer, buddy and I went to local Azone to get a brass plug for brake fitting. Ya, they had it..... $4!!!!!!!!! Say what?? For a simple .25 brass plug?? Buddy dropped it on the counter and we walked out muttering. I have a good connection(friend) at local NAPA that will actually look up and work to get you what you need. If it means them buying it down the street at Carquest LOL!! (don't laugh, they do it. Buy it, pick it up and bring it back and hand it to you). He usually just sends me down "as their driver" and I get it at cost.

Batten down the hatches and fire up the ol Cub Cadet!! Survived the ice storm last night, had to break away 1/2" of ice to get in truck this morning. Be getting the tractor set up tonight for the big blast. Bring it on!! BTW, ah, Rob...........make sure you got GAS..........LOL!!! Don't need to run out in the middle of the driveway LOL!!

Ya, it won't get shifted alot actually, just for any slow moving around. I'm going to run it in Direct most times. Just hoped to find a shifter I could just bolt on without having to build one.

It's a Spicer 6041 I'd have to agree that a COE shifter might be a bit bulky to mount anywhere and get the linkage back to aux. tranny. Not alot of room under cab and a crossmember directly behind it that I need to work around. I understand how they work and what would need to be done, but not enough room. I've had thoughts of building a block. Thick plate with two maybe 3/4" square sliding rods that are actuated by a shift handle(with a ball riding in slots on the squares). I realize it really isn't rocket science but sure would be easier to just buy it then make it right now. Got too many projects right now to add to the mess of putting one together. I have the technology, just not the time and energy. You know, LOL!!

David, I need to shift to both sides of the box(underdrive), so I need a full shifter for it. What kind of linkage from a COE would work? Cable style? Rob, I'll try Dean. I was hoping to find something cheap/easy? Adelmans didn't have anything in the system, but told me to come check trucks in the yard. Likely won't find what I need in the scrap side as most stuff there usually doesn't come with aux. trannys. A fellow on ATHS mentioned having one, but he's in Idaho.

Will be needing something to shift my 4 spd aux once I get the truck all done. Haven't had much luck locally, anyone happen to have one laying around they need to get rid of?

Cline was my first guess after seeing the one at the ATHS headquarters in WOT. That raked back windshield was my first give away.

Rowdy.........that is Freak'n hilarious!!!!!!! Love it, wish I could make a patch like that for my buddy who has one LOL!!!

Happy B day Rob...........even it I'm late to the party AGAIN! I'm sure glad OTHER people are having birthdays and NOT me. I'm feeling old enough already.

Welcome aboard. Saw that truck and also knew I'd seen it before. Glad you got a good one and hope you have fun with it. Been a few years back, Oldmacks.com had a firetruck crew cab for sale. That would be the ticket to throw on your chassis. Usually firetrucks go pretty cheap in the realm of things. Yup, gotta watch out for some of the "clowns" on here. No picture is safe LOL!!! We do like to have some light hearted fun on here, nothing too serious.

One difference..........well maybe two from the Ed Fitz. This one isn't broke in two AND it's sitting on the bottom and still above water!!!!

Always wondered the reason for the black sheilding, makes sense. My '95 F150(that got totalled) had a leak in the top center of window, not terrible, but a drip. I tried to get the one local shop to just cut it out and reset it. Nope, they had to spend an afternoon screwing around with it before they would cut it out. Come on guys, just do it. Nope. I tried using the liquid stuff from Azone and poured it across the top. It just didn't seem to help any, but looked like it had totally filled the top groove. Don't have to worry about it anymore LOL!!! My '89 that replaced it got a new window back when I got the bed fixed after the next moron in a minivan whacked it. Apparently the glass guy was concerned the truck was a rust bucket and would be a nightmare. My friend who owned the bodyshop told him.."No problem, it's a creampuff of a truck". It's nice driving and knowing you won't have water dripping on the dash(or YOU).

The only BAD thing about your water leak check.........is you are assuming the cab is air tight. Ever seen the inside of my truck?? LOL!!! New cars are much tighter then anything 50 yrs ago. You can't hardly get the doors closed on my '89 F150 because it's so freak'n air tight. Makes me cuss more then not! Guess I'll have to wait for the floors to rot out then the doors will close LOL!!! (and that ain't happen'n for a longgg time)

From 1984-1996 I drove my trusty 1970 F100 pickup. I loved it as you COULDN'T lock yourself out as you HAD to use the key on the outside to lock it. I called it "dummy broad proof" back in the day. Well, up to the last few months before I got my new '96 F350 the door locks were a bit worn out. If you shut the door too hard, it would drop the knob and lock on you. Not a big issue UNLESS the key was in the ignition. One day at work I was backing inside the shop to pickup something up so I could deliver it on the way home. I got out(truck running) to open the door and "ooops" the door locked! dammit. I had to wrangle up a coat hanger(lots of those since we have uniform service) and wiggle the vent window open. Lucky my go-go gadget arms were long enough to reach the lock.

Few years back I put the new rubber/glass in, the lock ring tool was $20 sumthin and the glass shop only charged $20 to do it. Duh...have at it! I might stop in and see if I can bring it in when I get it back together and have them pull the glass and seal it up better. I know the lower part of the driver side post had some rust and I sealed it up with POR 15. A small part of the ridge was gone, but not enough to worry about. I tried using the windshield sealant from Azone that is suppose to "run down and fill in gaps". Didnt do much. I think the lights are sealed okay, though the bases area a bit rusty from 50 yrs. Don't seem to get water down the post, only under the corner of the windshield. Just another lil project that needs to get attention.

I got a reply back from John, he's doing well. He's outta trucks, besides his '65 Ranchero. Yes, the ATHS board does have its issues, but not going to go into here either. To each their own.

I think it's coming in from the outside edge, somewhere around the top edge maybe and running down inside edge til it gets to the corner and then drops down dash. Nothing coming from the glass area, only under the rubber moulding. Need to buy the dohicky thingmabob to put the lock strip back in when I pull the glass out and fix it. Where do you get this stuff? Auto paint store? or specialty supply house? local glass place? Might even just take it and have it done?

Sounds like one of those "WTF" moments LOL!!! Where you just can't figure out how the hell you screwed things up that bad with such little work??? Back when I moved into new place, the garage caught me off guard one night. It's winter, night, cold, snowy and I go to the garage to work. Lock the house, since it's across the lot and I don't trust anyone(though it's a nice neighborhood). I had to leave garage for moment, opened door and walked out and door shut behind me. Seems one of the hinges was spring loaded to close door AND I forgot to turn the lock on the inside of the door handle so I was locked out of garage AND house with no coat, no keys, no cellphone, nadda-nut'n. Dammit!! Had to jimmy one of the garage doors to finally get myself back inside. Geezus, what was I thinking? I've since removed that stupid spring hinge so door won't close and I ALWAYS check the lock before leaving!!! I also have a hidden spare key that I've had to use a couple times in the last few years due to stupidity on my part.