Freightrain

I kept the stock vent lines on my new Alumitanks.

I used to have a Katz circulation heater in my 70 F100 way back. Worked awesome. You put a fitting in bottom of the block(water passage) and then the feed line to heater. It pulled from bottom of block, heated it and then ran it through the heater. It had thermostat so it only ran as needed. Yes, starting the B in the cold you held the throttle WFO until it started to cough and run on 2 cylinders. It would then keep catching cylinders and run fine.

Mine was in the center core plug on drivers side. I had to remove it when I installed the spin on filters due to clearance issues and the cord. If I recall mine had teminals and cord just screwed on. When I first got my truck, it sat outside for a couple winters. At 19* I tried starting it. Besides a bit of cranking it came to life with no assistance. I had four 12v batteries so it would crank for days and never slow down. Now it is a garage queen. I am curious if the air start would get it running with no assistance if it sat outside one night.

I'd say yes. I know about stepping on polished alum tanks. I love mine, but what a pita to keep looking nice, even with the minimal driving mine gets.

You made a post in another forum about a quad from a gasser and putting a diesel in front of it. I thought that is what you had. My mistake.

The one thing you would have to do IF you swapped the whole drivetrain is hang the R clutch pedal in your cab. It's a cable pull clutch so it would not work with your existing pedal arrangement(push style). If you have the baby quad in your truck I would recommend swapping the drivetrain. I do fine with my Triplex but it is much stronger(though still limiting).

Before I would start buying engine kits, I would look around for a 237. Find a running engine for the cost of a rebuild and have more power to boot. Granted, even a 237 is getting hard to find in decent shape. I was REAL lucky when I walked into mine for $300! Even if I did have to do a bit of work on it.

I keep Power Service in my truck and give it a dose at every fill up. Anything is better then nothing for these old engines.

Transfer pump should be no problem to get. Two bolts and a couple lines to get it off. Does it have a primer pump on it? The two plastic check valves could be stuck on it from sitting. Easy to unscrew the pump and clean things up. Like Toms says...pretty simple to diagnose.

Ya, my local shop still magna fluxes parts. U shaped electromagnet and metal dust.

My 673 did not have an oil cooler. My chassis is newer but not sure if the engine was original to it? The 237 came from a fire engine, not sure if that matters. I never looked in the housing to see if there is a thermostat.

I zipped the bolts off my 237 and had it apart in minutes. Head studs are reusable. It is not a hard project, and this was my first big diesel.

Rings a bell, have to check my aths convention books to find the name.

Wonder if you just snug that puller lightly them smack it with a hammer on top? Maybe that would jar the injector loose? "I assume no responsibility if it screws something up". Lol.

When I biught my 237 it had two cylinders full of mud daubers nests. I pulled the heads, cleaned the mess out, oil the cylinders and found a gasket set on Ebay and bolted it back together. The intake had been removed for some time and thus the mess inside. It was a good day when I got it fired back up.

I'm not sure if my 237 has a thermostat? Don't think my 673 did either. I ran them hard enough that the shutters were open most times. Only time they did close was on long downgrades. You could tell they closed due to the increased fan noise. It's not hard to keep the engine over 160* most days.

I've seen the blue LTL with the E9 also. Quite the truck. Keystone has their black one with an E9 also.

Depends if it is a baby quad? If it was an original gasser it likely is the small quad. Not something you want to put much torque through. Look on drivers side of the main box and find the milled flat spot. It will have numbers stamped in it. I don't know the numbers for a small quad, but the large one would be like "TRQ 7220". The "q" is for quad. If it is TRT, its "t" for triplex. TRD is "d" for duplex. The numbers denote ratios and how many OD it is. "722" would be single OD. "7220". The "0" means double OD . Just some basic information for you. There was a listing posted on here that laid out all the trans codes and ratios. I printed it off 20 yrs ago.

A gaspot will make heat no matter what. Only a diesel needs to work to get "hot". I suppose if it was going to a cold climate they might want shutters?

Nice work Vlad.

Thanks for the update.

Very cool truck. Love that tall, long hood look! Good luck with it.

Ya, local shop made it sound like they didn't want to touch it. And priced it as such. Lucky it runs great and no need to mess with it.

I checked with local shop about going through my 237 pump and readjust the settings. They quoted $3500! Yikes, I left it alone.

Dave, I love the 237. It's so much nicer to travel the hills and keep up speed. Cruise and AC help too. The jakes are a nice addition also. I just need a transmission that will stay IN gear on decel. Mine pops out of gear against the jake. You have to keep pressure on the main box handle.