Freightrain

I questioned my insurance guy about "garaged" vehicles as my race trailer surely doesn't fit in my garage. My race car stays IN the trailer all summer, next to the garage. He says that's good. Hope I never have to find out.

Very nice write up. Totally agree with all you said. It's all a very GREY area and it falls into "luck" if you travel much and not get hassled. I used to go farther with my truck, but now keep it pretty close to home and away from scalehouses. Only had one run in with a scalemaster and was quickly and politely excused and on my way again. Keep it looking good, well maintained and smile alot!

Not sure, but would guess they are Helium filled and she likely has to wear lead boots to keep from floating away?? Wonder if here name is "Hindy"? (ya know, short for Hindenburg)

Update: got the 3.70's pulled and swapped for 4.10 ratio. Brought it home last night. Unfortunately I have to return the bobcat(doh) so I'll have to wait to get the gears put back in. Working on finding a place to sandblast the cut off so I can paint it up purdy. My supplier also has a nice pair of 8"?x 32"? air tanks(very nice late model takeoffs) for $45ea. They come with brackets welded to the back with mounting studs so no straps to rust out. Will get them today/monday and make up brackets to mount them. I can't use the original tank in the rear as the air ride eliminates all the room back there. I'll be hanging them up on the side like typical trucks. Would love to find a pair of old F/L alum round tanks to hang back there and get rid of my square tanks. Will be working on that quest.

Morgan, have you seen my air ride thread? http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=14017 I was going to use F/L frame, but got switched to a '92 Ford Neway single axle frame. It's a slipfit over my B frame. It was 34" outside(3/8" thick) and mine is right at 33 3/8" outside. Any closer and I'd call it perfect. I'm adding about 4ft for a 42" bunk. I'll have about 70" of overlap to bolt it together. I got the gears switched out this week(from 3.70 to a slower 4.10) to a more low power friendly set up. Still gaining about 7 mph over my 4.62's. Next is getting the budd hubs off and swapping for Dayton.

Neat story. I think, like riding a motorcycle. It's not "IF", but "WHEN" something bad is going to happen.

Well, mine is relatively simple even with maxi's. I did have to reattach the front lines as they had been disconnect many years ago. I found the front limiter valve and plumbed a new line from the treadle to it. Works fine. Once I start putting the air ride on, removing the stock air tank in the rear and putting new ones on hanging on the side of frame and such I'm sure I'll have to watch my P's and Q's. Seems I used to have a simple air line diagram(from maybe Bendix?) that would be a simple way to plumb things. I know you can really get in deep with double systems, relay valves, quick releases, blah, blah, blah.

I was down in Louisville, KY Monday and coming home I passed a good looking old R model(with lil bunk) pulling a flatbed running down rt71. Single stack, red, nice looking unit. Shoulda thrown my camera in with me, but didn't.

Bet that's purdy for the FIRST summer, then it's a biotch to keep that way!!!!!

I'm kinda thinking the same thing. Guessing it's an updraft carb too?

Double OD and 3.70's!!!! Oh man........I can see the VERY FIRST ticket ever in a B model for exceeding the posted speed limit LMAO!!!! (well, downhill anyway). If I only bobtailed I would consider the gears, but with the limited power I still want some grunt to pull my trailer. If I recall, Superdog has some serious top end in his wrecker but with that 290 Cummins I think he has the power to pull it.

Mine will be about 200"(current 150 + 48~"), which will give me plenty for the 42" bunk I have for it. Personally I'd rather have 200" tandem with a 36" bunk but this 42" is FREE so kinda hard to pass it up. Anyone have a 36" bunk they just have to get rid of? Cheap!!!!!!

antique plates? not able to drive it? Huh?? why not?? Hell, I've been 3 states away with my hist. plates. Come on..............DRIVE IT!! Glad to hear the ol B fired up and ran. Check the filters, as they likely got lots of junk in them. When I bought my truck I thought it had been taken care of better. I almost didn't make it home one day of cruis'n around town. Come to find out the fuel filter was CAKED with crap since it hadn't been changed in like 100+ yrs? Got that cleaned up and presto, runs like a champ.

That black/grey sleeper B model is owned by Doug Fetterly in PA. At least the last time I saw it at Syracuse National Convention in '03.

Thanks Barry!

Well, we're going to work hard at NOT screwing anything up along the way!! It's going to be an all summer deal, getting all my ducks in a row before dealving into it. Are you going to just bolt yours on or slip it over like mine? I wanted to lengthen mine so I have to slip it. If I was just replacing, I'd bolt it on. The only noticable things that needs replaced is the torque arm, as it's pretty ugly looking. The panhard looks okay. Other then that I'm going to just run it, with new cams, cans, bags, shocks.

Since I was sick as a dog since Friday evening, both of those look like UPGRADES to what I had all weekend Caught a cold Fri, it built up all weekend and I'm just going back to work Wed. Still feel like hell(look like it, but that's normal).

Paul, I'd LOVE to have enough power to use the 3.70's. My buddy keeps telling me to leave them in and try it. I know it's a waste of time with only 180 hp/500 lb/ft torque. He told me how his Shiny 290 would pull it fine with 80K lbs. Ya, well that's got a bit more power then me! Besides being wayyy too fast in Reverse too. I'll stick with the 4.30 for now and be able to pull 70 mph downhill, or at least cruise 65mph not on the governor all day. It's a '92 Ford chassis, Neway air ride, original single axle tractor converted to dump. The joint will still be a foot or so behind the cab, but under the bunk when I get it. It will be a slip over/bolt on. No welding needed(which is nice). Don't worry Mike...........your first on the list for the old stuff! Heck, you can even have my new springs and slip it under your truck. With a bit of weight on the back it'll ride like a dream! Last week I got the frame stripped down to bare bones: Spent some time this evening and got the wedges out of the axles(geesh, who came up with THAT idea?). Lots of heat, PB blaster and sledgehammer. The axles had never been out, buy the looks of the faces(that had never been beat on yet) They look well used NOW! Ready to pull the pig and swap it out.

I'd leave the dash alone, or chrome the panels like you mentioned. I was just stating that if I painted the doors, they'd look outta place with the rest of the inside. Just covering the doors with button tuffed panels would really make it nice. My headliner is starting to fall apart on the seam on the pass. side and it's drooping in the center. Never was put in right before I bought the truck. I glued 1" jute on the top to help with noise control. Sorta helped I suppose. Love to get real sound deadner put on back wall and floor. Someday.....

Looks great Rob. Would love to make something like that for my B. Just to cover the rough looking door panels. Ya, could paint the door, then the dash wouldn't match. Easier to cover up the green LOL!!! Need a headliner too, but looking at costs on them pretty much changed my mind on that!!! (ouch). I think the black button tuffed interior is classy in an old truck.

My Dad to a TEE!!! God rest his soul.

I went to a demonstration at local HS back in '96 where they had a laser alignment gizmo set up. You hang "targets" from specific points and this rotating laser measured everything. You did it while on the frame machine. Pull til it's perfect. It was a mobile unit that they were selling, basically giving you a possible business oppurtunity. You let all the local shops know you have it, they pay you to bring it in set it up for their frame work. Wasn't really stupid money, though can't recall figure.

Yup, if you found those numbers on the right side of axle just outside of the spring perch? Look directly below to see a STAMPED number like "FA-xxx" Might have to look closely, with wire brush and brake cleaner.

Paul, you've got the BEST guy on here for getting a truck started that has run outta fuel. Rob is the KING!!! He'll keep trying til he gets it right Who us?? Naw.......not us.

I've never gotten them. I had truck plates on mine originally and was going to go to Syracuse for National convention. It was going to cost me north of $250 for temp permits. DOH!! I quickly put Hist tags on the truck and that was 7 yrs ago. I've been to Indy, Bowling Green, Ky, NY without issue.