Freightrain

Got some stuff laying around, sure would like to see it go to use. Hard part is getting it to you. Have to ask Jim how long a drive it is to get down here. I only have one question about the Jeep seats: Is there air ride under there? Nothing? Hope the springs are cut down on the truck or it might get a bit bouncy. The Torsion seat does take the jar out of the ride. I'd love to have something a big more "cushy" to sit on, but that's down the road.

Looks pretty good Glenn. You'd be surprised what a few days of washing and cleaning will do for the ol dawg. I've got a nice muffler/pipe with guard sitting in the back to take care of the straight pipe for ya! I ran it one summer, the the twins on mine and it's been sitting there since. I've got some Bostom T bar seat parts sitting here too. I have a couple nice passenger seats too! Bet yours still has the series/parrallel switch under the passenger seat? I have my cover for it, really nice too, as I dont need it anymore. That front spring will need fixed up before it gets on the road. I have my drivers side getting separated like yours, but it hasn't blow the U bolts, yet.

Well, glad to see you made it safe/sound, even with the slight problem. Like I say...."coulda been alot worse". I could see it now.......a whole fleet of trucks lined up in my driveway...waiting to stay at the "Freightrain Inn Express".

Sorry to hear about all the BS. That is the catch with trying to use a "newer" truck, as it falls under all that crap. I had "truck" plates on mine the first year I had it, including IFTA, but quickly ditched it all for Historical tags to eliminate the hassles. Eight years so far with only ONE stop/question by scalemaster. I don't even stop at scales now since they changed the signs to "commercial trucks only", instead of "all trucks". Start looking for "pre 84" truck and try again.

Glad to hear you got that all straightened out. Get that "P" fixed so it doesn't create headaches later on.

Ok, so you have a light and a buzzer. The buzzer is staying on all the time, thought the light goes out? Well, sounds like the wire going to the buzzer is shorted? I'm not familiar with how it's wired, but if the pressure switch "GROUNDS" the buzzer, then likely the wiring going to the buzzer is grounded inbetween the switch and buzzer, thus leaving the buzzer on all the time. It's likely a simple fix overall, but you need to trace the wiring. Quick schematic to show you what I mean: 12v+(bat).................(buzzer).....................(switch).................battery - If the buzzer is grounded(battery -) before the switch, then it will stay on no matter what.

I'm curious to what the "indicator" is? Are you talking a "wig wag", or "low air flag"? That comes down to warn of low air? That could lose air if the diaphram is bad. It's just a rubber disc inside, and tend to get old and brittle. The pressure switch works a light on the dash, or a buzzer(that you say works). I'm thinking that by your description that it all works fine.

Well, the g/f ordered a set and got them okay. Apparently they only ship on like one day a week, so you might have to wait for the next shipping day? A month is a bit long, but they send them USPS, so might be lost somewhere too. DVD quality was great, packaging great. Who knows?

While in reply box, there is a "attach this file" box towards the bottom that will add pics. I use Photobucket and works fine that way.

Serial number...........look in the passenger front fenderwell, behind the tire, above the rear spring hanger.

Mine is the split intake 673P version. Kinda the "hot" model compared to the single intake version.

Okay, here's my set up. First picture, the flexible air line comes from air compressor: The hard copper line goes down to the junction block: The air line(clean new one coming towards camera) goes to the shutterstat. Here is a top/front view of motor and you can see the new line to shutterstat: When I got the truck, the shutters were open and non functioning. The feed line was clogged shut, so I replaced it. The control cylinder was packed full of sludge so I dismantled it and cleaned it out. It's been years and it works like a charm.

Matt was out of the ends when I called this past spring.

I was going to say something about the front side "magic flap", but remembered momma cut them off when you bought that last B model Besides, with the excessive "dunlap disease", most won't be able to see much anyway.

Sounds exactly like mine. Maybe I'll get a picture of mine and you can compare it to yours. I'm not sure where any kind of fluid would be used, that is why I'm concerned.

FYI: I needed at least one new shock link and couldn't come up with much so I made a new pair out of threaded rod and heim ends. Ran new grade 8 bolts through the original holes and works fine, so far. Not that they move much anyway

This brings back memories of watching "High Ballin" with Jerry Reed and Peter Fonda. They are getting chased by the bad guys and Peter asks Jerry what he has for armament. Jerry says "I got a gearshift and a steering wheel" Pretty much the options for a B model

Yup Glenn. Tada.... http://oldmacksrus.com//Info.htm Gives a complete run down of models, motors, trannys, rear ends, etc. My truck was a conglomeration, so the door tag don't match the frame serial number. The title(from door tag) is 1959, but the frame serial number puts it actually about a 1962 vintage(going by number sequence). Sheetmetal wise they are pretty much all the same, except for the wide nose models(B70's), then the "L" cab versions. Like the B67 had a shorter hood and fenders and sometimes the concave back wall to reduce OAL and allow pulling a longer trailer back in the day. The number part of the "B" is the basic weight rating of the truck. B42 is lightweight, gas model where the B81SX is the big mother load chassis. Same sheetmetal. Option breakdown? LOL!! Steering wheel, three pedals and some shifter levers is all you get. Power steering is about the only big option, beside maybe air start? Sorry, no A/C, radio or power windows/locks.

Hmmmm, I'd like to see the picture of what you're working on Mike. I know my shutter gets it's air from a "Manifold" on the firewall(don't know what all it actually does), but no fluid that I know of in it. Air straight to shutter thermostat and then to shutter actuator. Works like a charm for years now.

If no one can find it here, then ask Michelle. www.michellesfords.com She's into Ford trucks, big and small(she just restored an N model truck). She might have some information for you.

Welcome to the site. Lots of guys here with R models too.

That's ALOT of yellow!!!! Guess you won't be hard to spot Unfortunately I won't make it over. Got plans for Saturday night and Sunday. Sure do miss not making any of these shows. Hope ya have fun!

The "indicator" sounds like only the light/buzzer? If you didn't replace the pressure switch then likely that's the culprit. If you replaced it and the buzzer still sounds, then the wiring is shorted somewhere.

Tanks..............oh ya. Just this past summer my passenger tank grew a leak around the foot tread. Got it drained down and waiting for winter to do something with it. I've got one last spare, the foot tread is missing from it, and I'm just not sure what I will do. The drivers tank is okay so far, but who knows about it? I'd like to cut them both apart and weld in new panels, as the rest of tanks seem okay. I remember years back someone had a set of aluminum diamond plate tanks on a B model....that looked cool!