Freightrain

Looks like a great turnout! Glad it was better weather then here in the Buckeye state. I wish I had made the trip afterall. Oh well, maybe another day.

Ya, Mike. My g/f and I were making plans to come over, but after it raining for the second straight day we decided against it this morning. Sure would have like to come. Seems I recall there are two long screws that hold the whole deal together. It's been 6+ yrs since I had to play with mine(and don't miss it). I guess when they work good, they're good. Mine got to the point of "on my last nerve" and removed all of it.

Wow...great looking truck.

It didn't stop raining til mid afternoon. Straight steady pour all day.................geez. Can't wait for the pics. My g/f was evening wanting to ride over to check it out, but we decided against it.

Yes, there is a big flat washer that makes the contact for the starter. If it doesn't make full contact then it won't start. I used to have to pull mine apart occasionally. Thus it sealed the fate and I switched to 12v start.

Been raining since last evening with no sign of stopping. Doesn't look promising to make it over there Barry. I hope it doesn't wash out completely, sure would like to have made it.

Huh??? What's that? Well, here's for hoping the weather makes it outta here by Sat. Not too promising right now, keeping fingers crossed as not sure I'll drive 3 hrs in the rain

Ya, I put all new lines on mine before re-installing it.

TEST DRIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ya boy!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL!! Looks like I'll be there Sat morning, maybe around 10ish. If I can get myself going early enough!

Nice to work on stuff that ain't rotten to the gills!

My B was like that when I bought it. I finally bit the bullet and had it rebuilt(I think it was a TruFlo 500?). Mason Truck Parts in southern Ohio did the job. One day out, one day there, one day back and I was back in business. Wasn't cheap($500), but purrs like a kitten and uses NO oil. It came back painted black again, so wonder if they just duplicate what it was or should follow some "code"? It's taken a few years, but finally doesn't bleed oil down the dash! Welcome to the site. Hope you find it as useful/friendly as the rest of us.

I like the visor too. I thought Barry was going to work on a deal to get them to the states? Been maybe a year now? I usually lock mine up when I'm at the race track, as I've had a few individuals just "hop in" without asking!! Um....Please get out of my truck!!! I'll be the first offer a look inside, but surely don't walk up and get in unannounced. At a truck show I'll leave it open, but there isn't anything inside that is free to take. I keep everything locked in the box behind cab.

Wow...didn't even catch that. Really sad, as I've never really though about it, though my locks work well I know the vent windows are easy picken's to get into these trucks. Are you at a show? or is that the resident parking spot? I could see if it was well a traveled area that you want security.

Need to test the small power lead to s/p switch, so when you push starter button, see if you get power to the s/p switch. Might be broken wire inbetween. If not, then likely the s/p switch is bad. I went thru a couple of them on my truck before converting to 12v starter. They can be cantankerous at times.

Good look'n ol iron Rod!

Reach under the dash with a wire lead and jump the two terminal and try starter button. This will confirm a key is needed. Simple fix, like Herb mentioned. If you don't want to buy a new switch, then take it to local locksmith and have them key it for you. My truck had different door locks and ignition(what a pain). I pulled the doors and had them made to fit the ignition key. If I recall correctly, my key says Briggs/stratton on it?

Boy didn't this just sneak up quick like? I'm still putting plans in the works to get over there, hopefully on Fri. Likely after lunch by the time I get on the road. If that falls thru, I'll be over there Sat morning sometime. If I come Fri, I'll be draggin my home away from home(40ft trailer). I suppose there is someplace I can camp for the night?

Once you tell them the seal number, they'll give you the proper sleeve to repair the yoke. Heck, I probably still have the information from mine. Your's a double reduction?(likely). Ok, seems we might have a discrepency on our conversation. I am starting to think you might be talking about "BACKLASH" in the pinion. The effect you can rotate the pinoin/yoke back and forth? It goes clunk clunk? This is common and is not something you'll need to adjust. The "wobble" we are referring to is up/down motion of the yoke itself. That could be caused by loose nut or worn bearings, though likely in your case it's just loose pinion nut. You mention groove in pinion shaft? Shouldn't cause any issue, as the seal rids on yoke, and that's where the speedi sleeve would be put.

There should be just about no slop in the pinion, as the bearings are preloaded tight and this does not allow for side movement. Unless of course if the bearing are worn it will have slop. There again, like Herb mentioned, the fact the nut might be loose(like mine was way back when) and that will cause a leak(like mine did way back) as it will allow the shaft to move around and let oil leak around the seal. It is tighter then a wheel bearing, as there is a solid spacer that adjusts the preload and on a wheel bearing, there is no spacer. Ya, a speedi sleeve is an expensive little #($*&, like $30? give/take. It comes with a sleeve to install it with and it has to be done with care or you'll screw up the sleeve and buy another one! I've always used a std seal with no problems. the sleeve is very, very thin and the seal has plenty of room for give. Make sure to lube up the seal surface with grease so it doesn't run dry at first drive. When you do tear it apart, look at the surface where seal rides on the yoke. If it's got any wear/groove in it, you're better to sleeve it as if you don't get the marks covered up it will tear the new seal. Sometimes emery paper will fix it well enough, but if you can feel anything fix it right.

Is the bearing tight? Is there any slop in the pinion? I've replaced my seal a couple times now and used a speedi sleeve on the pinion itself. First time was 7 yrs ago, then it started again last year so I did it again last winter. All is dry. I'm thinking I didn't get the nut tight enough the first time around(it was loose when I pulled it apart first time). I only had 3/4 breaker bar, this time I had 1" impact wrench!! I'm pretty sure I got it one more notch on the cotterpin this time. I'll give it 7 more years before I complain.

Was the old sensor dead shorted internally? That would have blown the fuse also, then after replacing the sensor it would take a new fuse to get it working again. Something to consider.

Paul has it pretty much covered. Before Maxi brakes...it has a manual drum brake on the rear of tranny, thus the reason for wheel chock back in the day. Like mentioned, alot of trucks got converted over to spring brakes. Tranny's: gasser's could have 5, but diesels went 10, 15, 20 spds. The 10 spd came as a two stick OR one stick(unishift) as the fist venture into air shifted compound box. I don't think you'll find any over the road tractors rated for 80K like todays truck, but with only 200 hp available you couldn't put that kind of weight on it and get anywhere very fast. Most times they were only geared for 45 mph(max speed back in the day). I know alot of these trucks pulled more then 100K at times, but that was a very, very slow trip. I'd bet(without looking) most GCVW were around 50K or so.

Small hole? 1/16" hole is pretty small. Most drains cocks would have been 1/8" pipe or larger(which is near a 3/8" hole size). So it's an open hole now? It needs a plug put in it for the system to be able to work. Start up? You'll need to air that tank up to 100+ psi, push in the "shut off" on the dash and then hit the starter. Unfortunately with air start you can't "crank and crank and crank" like with an electric starter. You'll get a few seconds of good cranking then it will run out of air and quit turning. Not good for starting an old engine that hasn't run in a while. Lot of guys will pull start them, as you can keep it turning by just pulling it around in circles. Air up the brakes(so you can release the parking brakes--if it has spring brakes on it), then also it will give you brakes for when it does start and you need to stop it from rolling into something.

I love a '78 T/A just everyone else. Especially a "gold" edition, as a close friend of mine had one. His was just a few steps above that one and he had it totally restored(full qtrs) and it was perfect when he was done. Great cruiser car. If you have the room, I'd go with the U(like everyone else). It's hard to beat an old Mack, though being a short wheelbase it will be pretty rough riding. There is still alot of parts around and you can spiff it up pretty easily. I suppose the price is just over scrap? It's sad as it's a pretty tall price for the overall condition it seems to be in.