Freightrain

From what I've been told the 2 pc is the replacement version. Seems the one piece is the factory unit, and has to be chiseled/cut out to replace with two piece unit. This of course only if you don't want to have to pull the tranny. If the tranny is out of truck, then you can put a 1 pc back in it.

I would try to find a truck that was in decent running condition in the first place. One that was drug outta a field will tend to have alot more wrong with it and need more parts replaced. I watched my truck for a few years before buying it. It was still in use, though very little, I knew it ran and did the job. It needed stuff done, but I could work and drive it too. Unless you plan on doing a full blown restoration, don't get it in too many pieces as it gets harder and harder to put back together without spending MORE money(right Paul?). Most of the tinkering I've done was with simple hand tools and truck wasn't down for extended time periods. I'm really looking hard at getting a "bigger" truck, and would love to sell the ol girl. Can't seem to find that right truck, so I'll keep pluggin along. I use my truck every weekend, so selling it prematurely would not be a good thing.

Doesn't EVERYONE have a cement mixer in their garage Tom?

The smaller the model number, the lighter the chassis and smaller the engine(usually). Even numbers were gas motors, odd numbers were diesel. They look relatively all the same, with a few changes here/there. Look at the right frame rail, behind the front spring hanger for the serial number, which will tell you what model is.

Welcome to the board Rustydog. Lots of old-time information available 'round here, that's for sure. Pretty much any of us has been there/done that once or three times. Good luck on the search for a truck.

That's definitely a truck you have to go OUTSIDE to change your mind.... Cool ol piece, but I bet a bear to spend all day in!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mack-Superl...sspagenameZWDVW I know of the guy that has this. I'm familiar with the red KW shown in the pics of auction. Two things: Not to sure of air filter set up? Don't look like they are big enough? The big "side pipe" exhaust. Could do without that, but that's just me. They did do a very nice job with it overall.

One of my favorite lines from my Uncle. His 3 boys were all tough kids, and never backed down from a fight. "Don't bring anything to a fight you can't EAT" This was in a time when fists were all you needed! Unlike today.

The ol 673 n/a gets about 8-9 mpg running empty, 7-8 pulling my trailer(14K lb). 4.62 gears, single OD, 22" rubber.

I'd use plastic for adding the controls. Much simplier to hook up and you don't have to worry about degrading rubber later on.

I originally pulled my very old, broken trailer lines off as I didn't plan on pulling an "air" type trailer. I've since put a new TP valve and lines out back to make it possible again. It's a pretty simple hook up really other then mounting your new dash control. This is where John Evans(truknut) used to jump in and give all the details. He's been AWOL for some time now.

Ya, true Rob. I was a little shaky the first year or so even though the truck was run occasionally previous to my buying it. I did put alot of new stuff in it in that time to make it reliable, though I've had a few little mishaps nothing catastrophic. One leaky fuel filter line and one broken oil line, both of which makes a REAL mess of truck/trailer, but she made it to/fro my destination.

Wow....guess I'm a little "light" in the tool dept? I do have a 3/4" set with breakerbar(takes care of tires), no jack on truck but two in trailer. 50ft air line, gal oil, (1) rachet strap, 50ft water hose(to fill my trailer tank when not at home), flares, safety triangles, small tool box with misc stuff in it, extra fuel filter. Guess I'm pretty confident with my ol rig cause I drive it hundreds of miles(even state away) without too much thought. I did put all good stuff on it the first time around(tires, batteries, ect) so it's not a worry. No sense in short cutting when you plan on using it, though it's not a business I don't want to spend my weekends on the side of the road.

Just a little update. Have not had to use the wiper til last weekend. Then all of a sudden they started running really slow, had to bump the park side to get them to return after a short time of running. I couldn't believe they started this after working so well after going thru them. Hmmm. Well a little diagnosing I found that the main feed line to the motor itself was a bit old(like maybe 40+ yrs) and was oil soaked and brittle. After wiggling it around at the motor I could make the work fast again. So today I installed some new lines and WOW....they work GREAT again. So, I'd suggest that if you have wiper issues and they don't seem to run very well, to start looking at the lines and see if they are used up. I think this might have been more the issue with mine then the sludge in the motor. I also removed the little muffler from the output side and it really helped with the power/speed too. With the truck running(especially at highway speed), you CAN'T hear it anyway. After hearing the horror stories of air wipers....I'm pretty confident with mine now.

I can't give you alot of detail, but basically you'll need a tractor protection valve installed to feed a trailer. Seems there are air line schematics onlines somewhere. Might be the Bendix website?

I've considered a/c for a few years, and someday I'll get around to it. My plan was to mount it behind the cab, behind my generator box and put an electric fan on it. Or maybe behind the battery box, under the frame rail with a fan on it. I've seen some of these sleeper a/c units with condensor mounted to rear of sleeper with fans on them.

Sounds like a pretty neat ol piece, V8 and all. My g/f is good with whatever I buy, as long as I DON'T get rid of the B. Strange, huh?

I got an Escort wagon(1.9/automatic) and I curse the day I would have to drive a (&$#* box like this everyday. I hate it........but it's the only way I can survive and have a few bucks to play with. At 3 times the fuel mileage of my old pickup it was a mandatory investment. I think I would like it better if it was a 5 spd! It would be a bit more fun to drive.

I'm gunno say the 14 spd version is the Double overdrive, so you leave out a few shifts in 5th. Check the website as it has all the gear ratios.

Well, it was a pieces/parts truck and PO doesnt recall all that has happened to it. I have alot of shop records of maintenance that was done in the 80's but no records of the original build up. The records are funny to read as the prices were dirt cheap for all the chrome parts, bits/pieces that they put on the truck over the years. When/what motors were gold?

Strange.....now that you mention it I have seen ALOT of variations of motor colors and realize I dont know what it is suppose to be. Mine is GOLD? Not sure of the real vintage of motor(chassis is about a '62), it's stamped 673P up front.

I need to get up to Stan's and get my "test drive" in his Superliner. Then videotape it.......ya, that's it. (I'll look like a tru rookie in that thing...grind'n gears like a 14 yrs with his learners permit) I'm not sure how well I could drive a "ONE" stick tranny? LOL!!!!!

Pics? Glad to hear it's running again.

Kinda like a two stick, main stick up a gear, then rev it to get compound to catch up to UD.

I run Coastal gear lube in my box. Can't recall if I used the 75-90 or 85-140?, plus I put it in the rear axle. It definitely quieted up the box after tightening the rear bearing and putting in new oil. Don't rattle as much as in years past. I think most concensus on Brownies is straight weight motor oil? The stories I hear regular lube is too thick.