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Freightrain

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Freightrain

  1. Yes, been there. Do you have oil cooler? You have to find a spin on set up that matches what your motor has. When I did my 673, it didn't have an oil cooler or turbo and took a bit to come up with set up. If I recall mine came from an early R model with 711.
  2. Should have a big air tank that only feeds the starter with 1" air line. Does truck still have large hand valve inside to actuate the starter? It's a simple system to work on. I have air start on my B61.
  3. That post would likely not be hot until you turn on lights or turn signals.
  4. Is the wire on the switch hot? If not, then the 12v source wire is missing and the reason no brake lights. That's a simple fix.
  5. Ok, the turn signal switch sounds like a Signal Stat 900. Does it light up when you activate it? No? Then you need to trace wiring to find out why it doesn't have power. Mine had an inline fuse. Does yours? The brake light switch is typically behind the cab. If someone removing the air lines, they may have cut it out too? It is just a small object with two screws in the top for wires. You just have to start with the simple stuff and work through it.
  6. I've seen them like that. With a spread it really helps with turning radius. I think they hang the front axle because with the arch in the trailer the rear axle likely wouldn't be off fhe road very far and constantly touch the ground putting flat spots in the tires from skipping along.
  7. I see a lot of spread axle trailers with front axle chained up when empty.
  8. Ya, what is "motor spins"? The starter spins while on the bench? Starter spins while installed on motor? (Wrong bendix). Does nothing while installed on engine? Wiring or s/p switch issue.
  9. My first thought also.
  10. My B61 was tagged at 33K. 21K rear, 12K front.
  11. I'm sure that GVW would be a tandem, NOT a single axle.
  12. Yup, if you get through 12 hrs without having to build 120# you are lucky. My .02 is the air wiper switch and shutters are the two main sources of leaks when truck is shut down. You may have other possible leaks but if the truck is pretty sound, the two things I mentioned will cause the quickest leaks. The wiper switch is a single O ring and the shutter is a rubber cup seal.
  13. 5th was OD, so using under or direct in the compound would be slower gears. Once in 4th Over, 5th was the last gear.
  14. Back in the day they would add a tag axle to carry the weight but it was not necessary to have it a powered axle. Not much different then todays dump trucks with 3+ tag axles under them.
  15. One of my favorite back drop manifold videos is Dan Thomas with his W71 and those old ATHS videos.
  16. Awesome! Sounds purrfect!! Wish my shifters were that tight!
  17. Doug used to offer bumpers, but I think they were SS.
  18. 1985 build date, so likely just a replacement B model tank. I'm not familiar with any other model that used that style of tank. Sorry. Hope someone else has some input.
  19. My niece had an Audi A4, turbo hotrod. Ya she calls me and it won't start one morning. Ugh. Ya, crapped the belt, she didn't know anything about that needing replaced at xxx miles(well past) and last time it was in for service (stealership) they told her nothing. Guess they wanted to sell her a new car instead( Never happen)? She took it to a couple places til a service place would touch it. Lucky for her it only needed a belt, not a head. She got rid of it shortly after because she was upside down in it with the mileage she puts on it and the real value of it.
  20. My starter is very lightweight aluminum and easy to handle.... Oh, that's right, I have an air starter....LOL.
  21. The passenger side was 40 gal, the drivers was 50 gal. since there was no stack bracket in the way. This was square tanks, not sure about round tanks.
  22. Great info. Thanks. I know 20 yrs ago when I was working on my wiper control knob that there is different variations. The air lines were different and it wouldn't function correctly. I ended up sending mine back to Barry and just putting a new o-ring in mine to help seal it up.
  23. This ∆∆∆∆∆∆. I think that is what the most critical aspect is. The tires do NOT need to be deflated. Those clamps will be wedged tight and smacking then loose before removing the nut is the only real danger of taking a dayton rim off. The thread size for the nut is what you need to know the torque for. Some are larger then others and this would take more torque. I never really torqued mine, just the 3/4" impact going around in cross pattern after confirming the rim runs true. I did watch my local tire shop torque them the one time they put new fronts on.
  24. I was not referring to the wrench size. I was noting the actual thread size. A tape measure is more then close enough to guess. It is 1/4" steps in sizes so you can eye that close enough.
  25. Likely 1/2" pipe. It's all std stuff. For a simple check, if the Outside diameter of the thread fitting is 3/4", its 1/2" pipe. Pipe dimensions go by the INSIDEof the pipe, so it's like 1/4" bigger then the actual size. So a 3/4" pipe is about 1" in diameter, and so on.
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