Freightrain

Well, got the valve covers off, ya it's a 673 n/a. The bolt gaskets were gone(pretty much), thus I think the problem why it was leaking. It was seeping around the gasket and even worse around the bolts and down draft tube mounts. I know I have a big pile of gaskets, hopefully I have bolt rings too. Doubling them up was on my list, plus I was going to check gasket crush before making them permanent. I was missing one fitting to adapt air lines, so guess I'll work on seals tomorrow. I did get the cotter pin out of tranny, though not sure how I'll get new one in? Time will tell. Really looking forward to getting this thing DRIED up some.

Well, duh.........I got the cobwebs outta my head and dug up my manual I got years back and found a layout of Duplex. That's close enough to give me an idea of what's in there. Terry, I see the layout of the twin bearings. Thanks for the heads up, and the offer gvam. One question: How the HECK did they get that cotter pin in the nut? It's barely enough room for socket in that companion flange area let alone enough to pin in there? I know I can get it ripped out, but getting new one back in?? That will be a real trick. Got my hands on 3/4" impact, picked up 1/2" line to power it from my compressor so after some quick plumbing I'll fire it up and see if I can get it apart. Love to get the little leaks all fixed up. I think I'll work on the valve covers again next. Did them 5 yrs ago and they've got to leak'n again pretty good. What kinda glue do you guys use to seal this up? Apparently the Ultra silicone I used didnt hold up. Should I use a hardening style gasket maker? Thanks guys.

Involute splines are tapered sides, kinda like a gear would have. You have to use PINS to measure the size, as the maj/min are basic reference dimensions. Here is a website I found that you can look thru to see differences. It gets pretty technical, but might give you some idea of what I'm talking about. http://www.omnigear.us/technical_information.htm

Let the FUN begin. Sounds like you got a great project going.

Good idea Glenn. If Dave finds out what's behind door #1, I'll proceed. Wish I had a book on these things. Don't want to make a mistake and HAVE to pull tranny to put back together!!! That would not be a good thing. I've got a couple months before truck is going anywhere so it's not a major deal, yet.

Welcome to BMT! Pictures........we ALWAYS want pictures!

Ok, maybe there's nothing I can do with it? Rear seal on the transmission is seeping pretty good on the ol B. I've pulled the driveshaft cause I'm replacing pinion seal also. I did the pinion like 6 yrs ago but it's starting again. The tranny I've never been in to, but not sure there is actually a seal or what? I've pulled the companion flange apart to find a large castle nut hidden inside. "IF" I pull the nut and slide the flange off will I find a seal? Is it a simple replacement? Not sure it will do alot of good as it is a 50 yr old tranny and how tight are the bearings/shafts? Sure would like to clean up a couple of the leaks. I've tried for a couple nights now to get pinion nut loose...ain't happ'n yet. 5 ft cheater bar...still ain't happ'n. It was loose when I bought truck, so it came right apart when I put first seal in. I turned it one more notch on castle nut and now it's locked pretty tight. Great. Might have to invest in a 3/4 drive impact to give it a bit more umph. I'd love to tear into tranny and rebuild it, but ain't happening. Still like to find a double over quad box. Then a place to put it in.

Guess some dimensions from both cabs and compare to see? Depends on which visor too, the curved metal version or plastic Lund version. The metal one I suppose to be altered easier then the fiberglass version.

Yup, one in the same. Thanks for the compliment.

By the looks of it Thaddeus, the plate that holds the rear spring mounts, is a snug fit to outside of frame, thus there is no chance of walking sideways. Not sure about front/back? The pics don't show enough details, but I assume it is locked from any movement other then up/down. Very nice job Tom! I kinda like to see some real drawings to it also. Might be better then my cut up spring pack. I assume since there is no ride height control, that is the reason for no real weight can be added(hauling a trailer)?

I appreciate the comment Mike. I'm surely no expert...........but like Terry mentioned....I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

Wow...now that's a short wheelbase! Neat find!

Here's the short clip of Stan's truck blow'n smoke.

I remember way back in maybe early 90's when Two guys garage(was Shadetree Mechanic) was a useful show to watch, Sam Memmollo put an exhaust brake on his Cummins pickup. I remember him talking about also switching exh springs to help keep them from floating. I put an exhaust brake on my Ford F350 powerstroke in 2000. Since Ford put a Exhaust back pressure valve in the system to help with warm up anyway, a company came out with a controller to actuate it for braking purpose. It worked slicker than snot and I could practically stop the truck just downshifting it(6 spd). I had the turbo go out at 9k miles and replaced under warranty, the service manager reamed me a good one about how that exh brake was NOT allowed and would void my warranty. Since I had spent near $100K in the last few years on trucks, they let me go but had to promise to remove it. They claimed it was the cause of failure(ya, right), though it was a common issue with them back then to have bearing failures due to oiling issues. I got 50K miles out of it before selling truck. The Ford EBV had a hole in it to protect it from over pressurizing, as it had hydraulic lifters and valve float was VERY possible.

Cool!

Nice shop Paul!! Makes that B look like a toy LOL!! When I back my truck into it's parking spot, you have to step out into the yard to change your mind LOL!!

Sorry to hear about the problems moose. Like mentioned, sounds like it's just gunno keep failing til you strip it and start fresh. Like Fred mentioned, if you want originality, these old motors should be plentiful to find. I'd love to find something "bigger" for my truck as I use it regularly and a bit more power would be really nice. Love to find a new home for mine to offset the costs IF and WHEN I did find a motor. Skip, a fellow bought an F model with V8 off Ebay last year. I actually looked at the truck for Terry(on the board here) and it ran great(couldn't drive it though). It's back on Ebay, motor is blown up. Seems the new owner got it home and it came apart taking it off his trailer? Ouch!

Hey Paul. Glad to hear its moving forward. On adding pics.......... Look below the box you type in, you'll see a "manage current attachments". There is a box that you can "browse" your computer for pictures and upload them into your post.

Like the people who put square lights in older KW's. Not a fan of that conversion, though I guess some people think it makes the old truck look "new". It just doesn't always fit all the round corners of the front ends of old trucks.

Good luck getting ANY straight answer on that one. Everyone here(in any state) gets a different answer depending on who you talk to at their State patrol or whoever. I went round and round, then decided with all the traveling I'll do that it would be safer to have it. If you only plan on putz'n around your home town then I wouldn't worry. If you plan on traveling far then I'd say it's more probably that you might get questioned someday.

Ditto that!

Probably the 237hp version? Where the maxidyne were 285, 300hp? Am I close?

If you crawl under the the truck, look on the driverside of the tranny about the middle and you should find a flat spot with a few lines of numbers on them. Like Mack mentioned "TRD", "TRT", "TRQ" (the last letter means "d"uplex, "t"riplex, "q"uad) and the following numbers gives the gear ratio inside. There are alot of different gear ratios available, but that is not all that critical right now. If you want wiggle the handles and figure out the patterns, then that is a cleaner way to find out what you have.

Depending on my racing schedule next year, I'll try to come over. It's kinda far out for me to say for positive, but I'll do what I can.

I'm not sure what holds the preload on the pinion bearings? solid sleeve or crush sleeve(like a Ford 9"). The nut is cotterpinned, so in reality it should not come loose unless there is issues inside(like bearings or crush sleeve). I didn't have access to big air impact so a 3/4" breaker bar did the job.