Freightrain

Glad to hear it's out moving under it's own power again! Come to think...that's about the ONLY line I haven't changed on mine yet either. Looks pretty old.........should change it before it lets go too!

Adelmans is truck heaven. They're local to me(I'm in North Canton). They have fields of trucks and parts. Makes a nice day of junk'n if you like doing that.

As it has come on the ATHS board............"Very Truckly" looking truck!!! I like it!!! If that don't scream "Bad to the bone" I don't know what could?

Glad to hear it's home. Yup, put some grease on the throw out. Probably really dry from sitting. You'll find more leaks as you start to work it. Mine got a pinion leak after a couple trips around town. Here to find out the pinion nut was one notch loose(castle nut with cotterpin). I put a new seal in, tightened it one more notch and now 5 yrs it's been dry. Good luck!

If I recall Bendix has nice diagrams showing common air line set ups. It should point you in the right direction. I always wonder exactly how Maxi's work. Yes, it takes air to release the park brakes, but when you push on the pedal it applies air to service brakes.....but does it basically push against the air holding the park brake off? I know there are a few air valves(quick release and such) that enter into the system but have never really undertood it clearly.

My double reduction front load is 4.62 and runs 65 with single over triplex. You could get away with low 5. ratio with double over box and get 65 mph. I"ve heard of 4.00 to 9.20 ratios available. You need to get the govenor up to 2100 first, then deal with gear ratio. I run my 673 on the govenor all day without a problem. Pretty much hold it to the floor and go. Very rarely do I get it off the floor or I'll be doing 50 mph in no time and be run over by traffic How heavy is your friend? maybe that is why he can't get road speed, not enough power to pull it? At 26,000 lbs I'm able to hold 60-62 on level ground(on the floor).

In response to what I would assume the thought at Mack would be.............."We make NEW trucks, why should we keep making parts for "old" trucks." It's the same all over, not just with trucks. They'll support stuff for a few years then off to "NLA" land cause they want you to buy a NEW truck. Not too many people can afford to do that, but they make them new trucks everyday anyway. I've only bought 2 new vehicles in my life, but they've come/gone and now I'm back to old stuff. Until the last rusty part is gone I'll keep my stuff going. I've finally got the local Mack parts guy to stop laughing when I come in and ask for something and tell them it's going on a B model.

Crazy thing............mine has the same mindset. Usually a couple times a summer it goes "click" for no reason. After the second year of it I pulled starter and had them recheck it for bad spot. Nothing wrong with it so I put it back in. It's done it again, but never a real problem. Usually a couple pushes on the button brings it to life. It's all new, so I know it's not a connection or wear issue. I look at it as........"it still starts and gets me there after near 50 yrs"........so I don't complain much.

Mines not daily, but every weekend it's out doing it's thing! Be it 50 miles or 500 it's running down the highway pulling my trailer to the races.

If you are changing over from Series/Parallel, then there isn't too much to worry about. I did this to my truck also. You'll put the 12v batteries in the boxes, run the two BIG cables up to the starter direct from batteries. A small FORD style solenoid will then be used to actuate the starter. I mounted mine up where s/p switch was and used the wire from starter button(on dash) to activate it. You will run a #10 ga. size wire from 12v POSITIVE at starter, back to solenoid, then from solenoid back to big solenoid ON the starter. You push button on dash which activates little FORD soleniod, thus providing 12v to starter soleniod, thus activating starter. Pretty simple once you get the jist of it. Good luck

Hopefully, like Speed mentioned, the tag will still be on the dash with shift pattern. The "tester" should give you some slack if you mention you've never driven this tranny before. Don't grind all the teeth off and you'll be okay!

Cool!! Nice to hear you got it running. I think the more you run it the better things will work.

Read what the tires says on the sidewall before going too far. Kinda agree on I doubt someone went thru all the trouble of changing hubs/axles for bigger rubber.

Doors and fenders shouldn't be too hard to get. The rest of the sheetmetal I'd bet you'll have to fab up. Might find a decent roof, but getting one that hasn't been beat to death will be a chore. Motors? 300 2 valve is the biggest I've heard in a B61. Plumbing and intercoolers are the hard part to get to fit under the narrow hood.

$500 for tags is not outta range. From what I remember mine was going to be for 33K, it was over $300/yr. That is why I put Historical tags on it. $25 for 50 yrs! You need to get ahold of someone else at DMV to see if you can get it plated historical. Maybe it's a state that doesn't allow it? I know some guys have a very hard time getting around the brainless idoits sitting behind the desk at DMV. Once you find someone that actually KNOWS the rules you might get what you want. I had to poke pretty hard to get my girls to give me tags, and they gave me the run around for a few minutes but then said OK. I told them how many people do you want me to show you that already have Historical tags on their old trucks.

In twin stick trucks with a Quad box, it's in the compound box. It's LO-LO and not usually used when spliting, but when you need to get started with a heavy load. Like the 8LL? I assume it's in the main box, not the splitter on the back(for hi/lo range changes). I'm sure guys will fill in the details if I'm off track with the newer stuff.

When I first got mine, after 20+ yrs of sitting outside at towing place I changed the oil in the filter and it had no water in it. Heck, is there even a gasket? I don't recall one? CRS!! The pan slips inside the bottom of filter so I can't see water getting in from there. Strange......

Ya, got on yesterday morning, then it froze up and "no server" message. Glad to hear it's all well again(and better too).

Condensation? I change mine every spring even with minimal miles on it(along with oil change/fuel filters). Never had water in mine though. Is there a crack somewhere where it letting rainwater in?

There should be a number stamped on the front area of the accy drive on passenger side. ENDT673C ? I couldn't guess what would be popular later on? Turbo version of 673? the 711?

Ya, gotta realize what/where you're at before shifting thru the wheel, cause it can come back and hurt ya! Especially since I don't have a big enough belly to hold it in place LOL!!!

That definitely falls under the category of "making power"!

My B used to make oil milkshakes everytime I took it out. The valves on the dash would seep oil down the front! Once I got it rebuilt I can't get more than a drip out of the tank(probably residual left from all them years it was bad). Like mentioned, it will get into seals and start causing more greif so it's money well spent.

Even the top of the stack is soot black! Nice job.

Yup........that'd be me doing the shifting show. It started out on a private server, someone(ok lots of people) have saved it and then posted it on YouTube. I did the one handed version about 3 yrs ago, then the next year I did the two handed.