Freightrain

Need to confirm it is a 500 pump. Then make sure it doesn't have a drier hung on it? About the size of a coffee can with line coming from compressor and going back to tank.

Yes. Ties into the water pump and returnd to the side of the block. Typically no air drier on these trucks from factory.

Every road trip I would drain a oil milkshake from mine. A good cup at least. Now it's just some random water. I would get it functional and see how it does.

Yup, kinda figured that is what happens. Here is picture of typical 500 model. The upper round port is exhaust pipe to air trank, it is typically a copper line. The two unloader valves are accessible through the intake port below the exhaust. My compressor has a small box bolted on with a wire mesh filter screen installed. Many newer trucks have a feed line from the air filter/turbo inlet pipe. The govenor line inatalls in the port to the right end from the intake. You can see the bump in the casting that goes to each end.

Not real familiar with how the unloader works, but guessing the govenor feeds air pressure at a specific setting to open the unloader valve so it basically freewheels(at 120 psi). If the unloader is partially stuck open, then it will never build enough air aince it is basically "leaking" pressure off. I'd have to look at mine to see if there is easy access to the unloader to inspect it. Might be an easy fix, but the sludge in the tank means it needs rebuilt anyway. Here is where I got mine done nearly 20 yrs ago. Not sure they still do them? It was $500 and like 2 day turnaround. Mine needed a new plastic coupler as mine was missing a few teeth. https://www.masontrucksales.com/

Compressor might be just plum wore out if it has sludge in the air tank. Mine was pumping oil, it would make pressure, but just slobber the tanks so had it rebuilt. Yours likely will be a Tu Flo 500 like mine.

If you need gold, this is what I used on my 237 in my B model. Rustoleum RLL 257384

How about doubling it up. Use shutterstat for normal operations then have another air line with solenoid and switch on dash to operate? Or use a TP flip valve for using air only? I'm sure in the right catalog you could find a small/simple air on/off valve.

I made a couple hook plates to bolt on motor. Still was a bit sketchy and had to work at getting it to balance properly. Especially when I put 237 back in and needed it to hang straight to line up with transmission.

I had a plate on my triplex get rusty, so I bought a new block off plate and gasket. Seems there were only 2 versions. Ive had thought of putting a PTO on my truck for some kind of future use. I know there are specifics you need to make it fit.

That liner looks like it just had a defect in the casting. Air pocket that finally popped through. Glenn, that's a sight I don't want to visualize!!

That should have more then a 5 spd behind it. It's a Thermodyne, not a Maxidyne. Used just as a toy, it likely won't matter, but with a heavy load it will struggle. If I recall there are two bolt patterns for PTOs to mount. That and the proper gear count to mesh with cluster shaft.

I would think a shutterstat would work an air clutch fan? Just like for shutters back in the day. You could put a bypass air line to the dash to manually turn it on. Seems simple enough.

I didn't know it was at Harrisonburg. Onyx610. There has been more then once that I was going to reply to something someone posted....but I always reread and rethink my comment and make sure it is what I want to say and then deleted my comment. You have to realize that you don't have to say everything on your mind.

Where is the wire to the electric fan clutch?

Ken needed to borrow my driveway for a week a few years ago. His neighbors don't really appreciate this sitting in front of his house so he parked it at my place until he went back to his farm in PA.

The GMC was JTs truck. He bought it and brought it home and started working on it. He is still around on FB.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Default.aspx It is hard to find with google sometimes. It has its glitches sometimes. Al Rhino has the BCR. Farmer(Ken) lives just a few minutes away from me.

JOT is another forum that evolved from long ago. It was the ATHS forums originally, it went through a couple upgrades, and the downfall was when ol Bill Johnson(x-pres of ATHS) decided it was useless to have and pulled the plug after a couple fellows worked at getting set up in the new format. It was a chit show. Eddy took the helm and with financial support of Peter J. started JOT so that NO one could ever pull the plug or discard any photos or information. I still poke around on JOT and meet up with fellow members at conventions. It is not high tech or flashy, but does the job for the group that is there.

Use signal wire to turn on small relay to control the air solenoid. That removes the need for big current control from the computer signal. Look squirrel...... I have a set of train crossing lights that activate when my garage door opens/closes. I have the new style opener that spins the cable shaft to raise door(no more arm on the center of the door). It is a 12v motor because it has its own battery back up. It won't run the 12v bulbs in the train signal without throwing an over current warning. So, I put a small 12v relay on the motor wires that now close the points on a 12v transformer that runs the lights. Works perfect.

Ya, I've been around since the old forums, about like Terry and FJH 2002ish? Right after I bought my truck. It has been a great forum, besides the few scuffles that have come around when a few people couldn't agree to disagree. This is one of only a couple forums that I am still active in. Good all around place with a variety of subjects.

If you use the existing signal from the computer, why would it care if it knows if it is electric or air? As long as it comes on when it is supposed to.

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Musta been the blue paint? Lol.

Ya, the clamp is pretty flimsy. I've had to replace the wire lug. I bought a few much bigger replacement clamps for our other welders and I got two magnetic clamps. Kinda handy for large flat work or sticking to a weld table and won't fall off. Ya, everything is inverter technology and even my local service guy suggested I don't buy the 255 for home unless I use it constantly (I don't). He says you don't want it sitting around for years and it suddenly crap out with only a few hours of use. The boards inside are all one so there is no cheap fix. You have to buy the whole mother board, not just a simple power board, or hi freq board for a hundred dollars. I have a very vintage 220 Millermatic mig machine. Just a big transformer,a big contactor, and some cables. Nothing to fail. The transformer has taps you just move the positive cable to the one you need. Friend gave me to use 30 yrs ago and still going strong. I want tig at home, thus the dream of the new machine. Another friend has an old Miller tig machine he will sell me since he got a good deal on a big power supply. It too is just simple and been reliable since he bought it new.