Freightrain

Wow...someone put ALOT of time into that restoration. Simply beautiful. That lil gas'r just looks lost under all that hood!

Using the aux, is a "need to" type arrangement. Only split when you need the power, and skip along when you don't. That is how I drive mine for the most part, and you'll find that most guys on here with old two stick trucks do the same. No sense wearing your arm out LOL! Just remember upshifting is the simple part, just let the rpm's drop enough to get it into gear. Down shifting you have to raise the rpm to match. As you watch my little video, you'll see that when I downshift the compound(after upshifting the main box), I blip the throttle to raise the rpm enough to drop it into gear. Depending on how wide the ratio is makes the difference in how many rpm you have to raise to get back into gear. It's all in just learning your set up.

Like I mentioned, straight cut gears are very noisy. If a ring and pinion were straight gears, you'd hear it howling over everything in sight. Cars are refined, and made to be quiet. There are limitations to car rearends, but for the most part are strong enough to survive. John Force goes 300 mph on one. The old Mack double reduction rearends have straight cut gears in the final ratio, but the speed they turn keeps the noise from being audible. I'm sure you've heard of the Muncie "rock crusher" 4 spd. Yup, straight cut gears and it whines big time. Cool for a hot rod, but most don't care for noises like that(like old solid lifter motors). Learning to drive a truck tranny just takes time/patience/smoothness. Can't jam it along like a car. It has to be worked like a walking on eggs. I learned on my truck on the way home from buying it. Still "grind" a gear on occasion(nobody is perfect). Just have to live/learn.

Welcome to the world of REAL trucks. Like previously mentioned, you'll not find a HD class tranny with synchros. No real need for them, as I think the only reason they were put in ANY transmisson was for the fact that ANY person could then drive. Back in those early days it took a real person to "man handle" a car. Then with the technology, synchros were added and now anyone could drive a car/truck easily. Well, in the world of large trucks, not "anybody" drives them, it does take some talent. Beside the fact it would be just more parts to wear out and it's not really needed. Most late model tranny's do have synchros but they are in the back box(splitter) and they do wear out. Never have to pull a two stick apart to replace brass because it would shift. Anyway, as you found in the video(it's me by the way), that two stick trucks do take some education to drive. You can drive them ONE handed(or two if you please). The late model 5-6 spd transmission do not shift like the old triplex's anyway. You can float the gears very easily, just with a 6 spd, they will be farther apart and take longer as the motor has to drop rpm alot more then the older motors. You should also know that straigh cut gears are FAR superior in strength to helical gears and since it's a truck, noise is not a real issue(can't hear over the motor anyway). With the torque that these motors are putting out, 3 countershafts make it bulletproof.

Seal Power? or are they part of Hastings?

Nope, wasn't me........though that is just over yonder from me(30 minutes North). Can't say I would know who owns it as I'm not familiar with any running around that area.

I would assume you can get the clutch parts pretty easily. The thickness of the disc should be available too. Though if I was going thru all this I would put all new in it anyway. I'd remove the flywheel and have it ground, and see how it cleans up. As long as the cracks aren't deep, I wouldn't worry too much. Should be able to grind most of them out.

I'll see if I can find the Napa numbers for oil and fuel filters. That is what I run in mine. The only issue I found with my fuel filter canister was the gasket on fitting(outside). Been off too many times, and then you couldn't tighten it enough to seal. Ended up dismantling the center fitting and installing new gasket I had in box of parts that came with my truck.

The bolts will come out of alt. bracket. I'll look, but if you bust it up getting it apart I have a couple gens and brackets laying around.

Ya, mines a single over triplex, though not a lightweight version(only a TRT). You can split all the gears right up to the big hole!

I think the a/c unit was one of the aftermarket car units (Vintage Air?). Overall the truck looks tasteful on the outside, the blue interior of the sleeper has gotta GO! The train is a waste, but they say it's a local truck so they don't need the sleeper anymore. The hoodscoop was a FORD superduty unit(from back in the 70's). I've got one on my '69 F100. Kinda unique to use it, and wonder if it's for the tip turbine? Never did know what motor was in it? It's not a 673 for sure.

I have one of those pumps that hooks to the gen(have the star bushing too). I've thought of selling it off, but never really pushed it. Don't know the actual condition though looks nice. Once I got radials put on my B, it steers really nice(even stopped). Not quite "power", but compared to the bias plies it's heaven!

The 12v system is only the alternator and starter, which will not really fix any wiring issues you have with things not working. It's a pretty simple operation to change those two things over, though will hit your pocket book pretty hard. Sounds like maybe your series/parallel switch is not working if you can't get it to crank. What's the condition of all the cables? batteries?

http://www.marinepartsunlimited.com/ Art will help you out. He's the go to guy around here for air wipers He has alot of old books, schematics, parts(new, old , NOS)

DOH!! I hope that you either have another cab or this one is salvagable. Sounds like you might have to let the air outta the seat for you to fit now? or stop wearing hats? LOL!

In typical Jerry fashion...............another OUTSTANDING job!!! Sitting next to his black Autocar...it's simply a stunning pair!

Nice find! Looks really solid, and ready for another 50 yrs of haulin'

Ya Barry. I noticed that too. It's got a B7x nose on it with 61 badges. Wonder where that nice chrome sheel went?

Not bad. They could have done worse LOL! I'm not much into purple, but it looks pretty tastefully done. Have to agree, there was not much wrong with the truck to begin with. Compared to the way they present the late model stuff(ducktape holding stuff together), that truck was pristine!

Thats WOOD!! WOW!!!!!! Very, very nice job. True craftsman.

Here is a shot of the bottom of my race motor. I usually put a dab of silicone on the washers before putting side bolts in. These motors use spacers to make up the space between block and cap. I just wondered as the spacer MIGHT fall out if you pull bolt out. It shouldn't but if it's a loose enough fit it might drop enough to not get bolt back in. When putting it together you torque mains, then install side bolts and pull down to 42lb/ft. I've never seen the bottom of a V8 Mack so I was curious.

Like on an FE Ford, the cross bolts can be removed and re-installed without fuss as they are put in last anyway and don't affect main bolt torque. Does the Mack have spacers? Or does the cap come right over to the side of block?

Nice job! Looks good.

650 miles/38 mph= 17 hrs. Shoot, that won't be too long of a trip LOL!! Pretty nice unit Mark. Looks to have a jib crane on it too? That would be handy!

Once it gets some fuel spilled on it....it will blend right in LOL!!