Freightrain

I plan on putting a 5th wheel back on the truck and convert my trailer to a pin (instead of ball). I want to be able to actually use the truck again for a real trailer if need be. With the springs cut down and a g/n ball it is completely useless. With the air ride I can ease the pain on the nose of my trailer, but still carry a real trailer too. I've got a couple connections around here that I was going to enquire. I'll email ya Mike and talk. Thanks Larry

Ok, just so I have an idea what I can look for........... I was putting thought into converting my B over to air ride. My first thought is leave the rear in truck, but get air ride suspension parts and bolt to everything I have. So, the question is: Will my original rear housing accept an air ride suspension?? I would assume it would, but just thought I would ask before I try to locate parts. I'm thinking Pete leaf, or Neway, or newer Mack maybe?? Something I can pick up cheap, put some new bushings/bags on and bolt it up. I have a few connections that I might get stuff pretty cheap..but wanted to find out what might NOT fit. I'm figuring that if I don't have to get the rearend too, it will be real cheap. Any thoughts?

What about the small circular panel at bottom of door?? This is the lower stop?? It needs removed before the assy can come out...doesn't it?? It's been like 4 yrs since I played with them.

My State Farm guy has no problems with me.

Will it not be stamped on front of accy drive cover??(in front of inj. pump) Mine is stamped 673P (starter low pass. side) Not sure if the 711 is stamped as such? Never saw one to know. The later model 711's had extra head bolts in corners.

Is it not on rear of tranny?? You should be able to see it if you look under rear of cab?

Glad you could do it Fred. Neat story. Being a drag racer.............there was a fellow racer that passed away from cancer a few years back and his last request was a trip down the track. So.........on the way to cemetary the hearse made a pit stop, the owner opened the track and he made...one more pass... Larry

The only way to get a good charge on ALL batteries is separately. If you do them as a unit, one may take a good charge and the rest be marginal(depending on overal condition of battery). Charging at 12v across two batteries might get it running again, but from past experience and from what I have heard from battery people it's better to do them individually (at 6v).

Yup, we have LED's here also. Becoming more popular also, since they make them in all configurations. I will probably be using them to add a couple on the side of my B. I really like the LED sequencial turn signals....so I put a pair in the texas square bumper out front.

There should be a hand pump on side of inj. pump. I've had to use this to prime/fill the filter after changing it. Even had to do it when I ran it low on fuel once. Usually takes 20+ pumps to get it running again. If the hand plunger has no resistance, then it's not picking up fuel..once it gets some resistance then you can tell it's drawing fuel. If it bleeds off from just sitting...then there are issues. I don't have the knowledge so someone needs to speak up. The pump is below the filter so it should have no problem after you get it primed first time.

I've been bugging the towing company for some "working" pics of my B. Back in it's heyday...the two owners were the main drivers of my truck. Since they moved to a new facility this winter....alot of stuff got shoved away and sometime I'll get them so I can post it.

I've put some thought into a few small yellow/red lights under door of my B. Nothing gawdy, but enough to see steps/tanks at night. I put (4) 4" LED tailights out back on the diamond plate tail panel and my friend told me it really twinkles at night following me down the road. I have stainless mudflap weights to install yet. Trying to keep it just tasteful

Find the DOOR TAG and read it to us. That way we know what you have. Since you didn't mention it had TWO sticks...I'd assume it has single.

Um....ya...I can say I've had those kind of days........ Let's see...6000 rpm.......second gear.......and it just "kinda stopped"..... (428 ci FE in my race car)

I wanted to convert to Budds also..but after 6 months of phone calls and number crunching I found my spindles are some goofy odd pieces and no std budd hub will fit. Now, that doesn't mean I couldn't change king pins/spindle assy to make it work but have not gone that route yet.

From what I have been told so far....the water pump and balancer from your original motor will need to be used. The starter will be on the drivers side on new motor, which will need to be moved to passenger side for clearance(from what I have been told? ) Not sure what you need to do there? Use your original bellhousing between 285/5 spd? This is a job that I would like to look into later, but I still want my twin sticks...so I would probably re-use my triplex(or something similar) though not really needed. Not sure...that is a project for someday..............

On normal car/trucks you adjust the throw out arm for clearance. Here you adjust the plate for clearance from the throw out. Hmmm, okay. That is the reason I have not dug into it. I have read people that have got it screwed up somehow and don't have pedal anymore . Don't want to get into that. Some day when I have nothing better to do....maybe I'll swing under it and start poking around.

This has always been a wonder of mine. I have looked thru the old owners manual about clutch adjustment but not wanted to touch it. Mine is kinda close to the top, but also does not slip. Guess it is okay for the mean time. Don't want to screw it up.. I don't know how many million miles are on it...but it works so I don't want to mess it up.

Hey Barry. The site looks GREAT My name is Larry Kortkamp. Got into this truck'n thing about 4 yrs ago after a lifetime of wanting to . I use my B model to drag my race car trailer around(ya, my avatar is my race car).