Freightrain

It turned out fantastic! Glad you finally got to take it for a drive. It took me months to get smooth with my truck when I bought it. Heck I have days that I still shift like a rookie!! Lol!!

Turbo is solid mounted, the downpipe is also solid mounted to manifold. The reducer basically floats between them using the rings to seal it. This movement is needed due to heat expansion.

Well it's all back together. I bought some hi temp RTV(rated 750*) so we'll see how well it holds up for now. I wire wheeled everything really clean and noticed grooves worn in the adjoining sockets where the original rings were sealing. I put a nice bead around all surfaces and slipped it together. I will give it a few days before I even start it. It has to be better then nothing.

No luck at dealer. I think I'll be looking at gluing it for now. That or some hi temp silicone. Changing turbo is a possibility at some time, but all depends on mounting configuration to manifold. The exhaust side is not an issue as I can make anything work.

Thanks Dave. I realize I can go that route but it is too late to tear apart and let sit until I figure it out. I need the truck, so I have to be able ro know what I need before I destroy those seals getting them out. They don't overlap, they butt together.

I'm just thinking that they are sprung like a piston ring...maybe not exact, but similar. No worry, I'm not going to whack it with a hammer! I know how fragile it can be. I have a good serial number to track parts, as I used it to get a band clamp for it back when I put motor in the truck.

My guess is like piston rings, there is not way to distort them without breaking. Likely are cast iron.

It is the adapter between the turbo and downpipe(see my first post). It leaks pretty bad due to seal rings are worn and stuck. I'm looking for options to fix properly before getting the glue out.

Ok, its apart and yea, 2 rings that appear to be well worn. Wonder if anything like this is still available from Mack? Don't want to screw them up trying to remove them if I can't replace them. They are very snug right now, likely take heat to get them loose. Might stop and see my buddy Jeff at R&R Mack and see if he can help me out.

It resembles my old set up. Just a thick o-ring for sealing the two halves. Should be okay to reuse, I never replaced mine. I heard there were two version, 3 hoses and 2 hoses. Full flow and bypass. Mine had 3 hoses. Not sure if filter element is different or same between them. Maybe yours will have part number stamped it it?

I'll get it pulled apart and check it. Thanks.

Most B67 had the contour cab and are even tighter inside compared to the std cab. Just a heads up if you need leg, stomach, or head room. I'm not sure about all the maintenance of the unishift. Shouldn't be too bad especially for a hobby truck. I guess the first thing I would investigate is the air compressor. If it's worn and pumps a lot of oil that could be an issue with sludge building up. Before rebuilding my compressor, it would make milkshakes in the air tanks in short order. My air wiper cylinder was packed up and they didn't work well til I pulled it apart and cleaned everything.

Had thoughts of that but didn't think it would be a good long term fix. Thus I wondered if that was a repair part or do some machining to tighten it up.

Started noticing exhaust smell in the truck. Opened the hood and goosed the throttle and smoke bellows out of 2 places on outlet side of turbo. It's the casting between turbo and downpipe. I've had that off a few years ago and I know it is not snug anymore, but it never leaked/smelled this bad. Any thoughts on fixing it? Doubt there are replacement parts for an old 237. I thought maybe some brass shim stock cut in rings to clamp between the ends to snug it up? The downpipe fits on pins to locate and had thoughts of maching that mounting surface to move the downpipe closer to the turbo to tighten up the gaps in that short ring in-between.

I never had to change the o ring on my filter set up....if yours is a full flow like mine. Like Glenn mentioned a picture would clarify. It would have two large lines going to housing on side of block and a small hose that drains back to the bottom of the block just above the pan rail. I used to fill mine up and then cap it and start it. There was a drain back valve in the feed line that kept it near full after shut down.

Here's a close up in the garage.

I didn't mean fully shut down, but slow it down enough to create a shortage and thus price increases. Sound familiar......

Oh come on....everyone like 8" sewer pipes on a truck......

Those two pieces fold and slip into the front of the cab above the windshield. That gives you the threades holes for the main headliner to attach to. I still hav mine but continue to fall apart due to age. They fold into a triangle of sorts and wedge into place. I just my headliner back in a week ago after installing my new visor. My headliner is in 3 pcs because the seams fell apart. I have it taped together on the back. Ugh.

If we went electric, they would shut down oil wells and then raise the price of gas again due to lack of oil. Duh.

Been lucky, never had issues with any vehicle or equipment that sits with regular gas in it. Just got the old cub out last weekend after 6 months and it lit off like it was run the day before.

I've watched a few of those tiny home builds on tv. Not sure the young ones buying into this realize just how small that trailer is. At young ages maybe they think it's a good thing. Give them 20-30 yrs together and they will each want their own trailer just to get away. Lol.

I still run my 1974 cub cadet tractor. Still original motor, purrs like a kitten. I used to poke around looking at new stuff until I found this about 7 yrs ago. The new plastic crap is chit. The carb will drain the fuel if you leave the petcock open, so I make sure to turn it off just before parking it.

When I put my 237 together I bought my coolant and air hoses from this place. https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/

I got my top end gaskets for my 237 from Ebay. It was a Felpro kit.