Freightrain

Dennis, when I converted mine over I followed Vince VanNewkirks advice. Ditch the old steam valve in the cab and install a tank mounted valve with remote operation. I really wanted that old valve but Vince said it would always be a problem. He runs air start on all his work trucks. The alum tank came with air operated valve on the tank(wished it would have been electric so I could use existing starter button). I bought a new air push button for the dash, rebuilt the valve on the tank and a new check valve into the tank. It holds over 100# for 7 months with no problem. The only line off the tank goes to the starter so there are no chances for leaks while sitting. The control valve is all new so it too should last a long time.

Maybe its the 517 axle that is the bastard part trying to swap hubs? Just a guess.

I thought I tried crossing hubs over just from the king pins. Seems it went no where. Maybe I just got wrong information?

For a work truck I would keep them up as that is what the tire is designed to run at with a specific weight. For a toy I run mine down for better ride quality with minimal weight on them.

That first trip out fo the garage is always the best! Its all dowhill from there. Congrats.

I have information in my collection of stuff about contacting someone a long time ago and we researched all the bearing numbers and spacings and tried crossing stuff over to see if anything bolted on from Mack. Not sure how easy that would be to do with other manufacturers? I have the 517 axle.

I haven't gone that far. I had thoughts if I can match the king pin but then there is tie rod ends to match or make work. I guess it all depends on what axle you have under your truck and how odd it is compared to newer stuff. I guess I haven't been that diehard about it.

Wow... that's a beast!

Lol....no, likely trimming the carpet or sumthin....

Ditto Bob. Ive given more stuff away(or scrapped) because I dont want to deal with selling it.

I dont think they are referring to cars only, but vehicles in general. Poor maintenance was likely more the cause for failure. Oil back then was horrible also. Most engines were wore out by 50-70k miles. Today its 200k+. Big truck engines have 2x, 3x lifespan now also.

Very nice piece! Glad you have yourself another toy to play with.

Sad truth to many peoples "projects". They think some day, only to have life get in the way and there it sits.

Maybe you can't copyright just part of a word/name? Like "ing". Many words use those letters so it would be difficult to get a copyright. So "liner" would like fall in that category.

Thanks for the update! Lots of steps....but the end is looking near.

Was approached by a local racer who pulls a std box trailer(hauls race car) with a Pete with historical tags and the Ohio patrol busted him. He had to put truck plates back on it($1600). Seems they told him he could not pull a trailer with historical plates on the truck. I was like..."never heard that before". Maybe my Mack is a bit more "non comm" looking compared to a 359.

I assumed square tanks. Here is an old shot of the steel tanks.

I've seen a few variations of putting a left stack on a B model. I went with using another 40 gal tank and just duplicate/mirror the right hand top and bottom brackets. I didn't have to move the fuel tank brackets, as the tank is just longer on the one end(the end that would cover the left stack area) and using the right tank will just slide right in with no fuss and clear the stack.

The headlight switches are kinda unique for a B model. The dash lights only come on with the headlights, not with parking lights. I'd like to get that changed but haven't figured out the wiring yet (only been 20 yrs). I bought a special long handle toggle for my Jakes but would like a colored extension for it. I see a guy on FB that is recasting sparkle shifter handle extensions now.

Cool. Saw a tractor at one of the recent aths comventions.

They don't make frames like they used too! My 1974 Cub has 1/4" frame rails. Its built like a Mack truck!

There's a fellow with a YouTube channel that restored a Farmall H. He primed everything with red tint primer that way scatches don't show. He painted all the bolts before assembly and then just touched them up after tightening. It was a fantastic job.

When I got the wig wag for my truck, it too was a bit rusty. I sanded it and masked the top off and painted the lower half red. Then I fogged a quick coat of black to it. Then using a flat block I lightly sanded the black off leaving the black in the letters. Looks perfect "patina".

A simple manual fuel shutoff somewhere along the line(under the cab) would slow them down. By the time it would air up enough to move it would run out of fuel! I doubt there is a large market for a stolen B model? Parts maybe? A late model truck, yes.

Time to put a larger filter inline, maybe an opaque version so you can monitor it and see if it is getting clogged. Keep an extra filter in the truck with some tools and that would keep the tow bills down.