Freightrain

Yup, wanna make a million trucking? Start with 2 million.

My worst loss at gambling was at the nickel slots. $20 and I called it quits. Now drag racing, I spend thousands for the chance at hundreds.....so I'm not in the black there either after 26 yrs.

With me having a brownie box just a few feet behind the triplex the transmission would like not fall very far until the driveshaft got bound up.

I did replace the mount bushings after the motor swap. It likely wouldnt have moved much but I did want to control it so I played it safe.

You do have to support the tail of transmission because it will fall back since the mount is too far forward to balance it.

I remember watching the video on youtube about that truck. The body is chanelled over the frame to lower it? Something along those lines.

I used Deluxe speedometer in Denver for a new cable for my hot rods tach drive distributor. Quick service and great part. I have no clue about ratios. My B was direct drive speedo when I bought it. Now its electronic.

Ya, I remember the few times I've had mine apart through the years. Always a Chinese puzzle when it comes to remembering how it goes back together a few months later.

I bought a ratio adapter off ebay years ago. Not expensive. Using the numbers 6/13= .46 Try to find that ratio adapter? Or close to it.

How about making up your own "Convoy" grille guard? If not, just get a factory grille guard.

Love those movies....and Shirley not kidding.....

Worn rings in the compressor will put excessive pressure in the motor as it pumps(blowby just like a typical motor). Then lessens when the unloader opens.

Many times they are just gunked up. Have you checked the reversing valve, as that can cause issues. My truck had issues but after removing and cleaning the motor/reversing valve and some new air lines it will near throw the blades off it goes so fast.

I typically use the direct link also. They have like 5 options, but dont try them.

Ya, I use postimage.org as its free and easy to use(like photobucket used to be). Save your pictures there and they give links to use to paste a picture any place you want. You can use the "add files" in the bottom of your post and download the picture directly to the post. Not sure if there is still a limit on how many pictures you can download to BMT? I know that was an issue before.

Worn rings on motor and since the compressor is pumping oil it is also has worn rings.

Great work on the tanks. I polished my new tanks before installing them. I bought an 8" Dewalt angle grinder and buffing wheels. Made very short work but that big grinder sure takes a strong grip to keep control of it! One wrong move and it will throw the tank(or yourself) 5 ft away. Ask me how I know!

Ya, I remember the lack of storage for all the oil we had.

I bought an overhaul gasket set on Ebay when I worked on my 237.

It will take finesse to get a diesel in there. They lay over pretty good to clear the doghouse in a short hood. Not very condusive to being worked on either. Great find, but along with others it will take a lot of changes to make it user friendly for your purpose. You might as well start with a better candidate.

One engine I'd like to see is a cab forward. My dad had one on his HO layout and I always thought it was the coolest thing. It too had large air compressors that you could hear popping. Ive watched some old movies about them on YouTube. Btw, I still have my fathers engines and equipment from his railroad. It was dismantled back in 1976.

I hung a one wire alt on my original gen bracket with some simple modifications to the adjustment swing arm. I ran a big gauge wire right to the batteries. I removed the amp meter and installed a voltmeter. That's it. The starter doesn't care on polarity. You could then hook to any trailer without problems. Like Paul said...radio or whatever can be hooked up.

My B model had one originally. In a bad decision early on I sold it. I bought a Holland for it again later on. Wished I could have gotten that Fountaine back.

You will have to reverse the battery wiring on the breakaway battery. If not, you will not like the consequences if you test the breakaway while truck is attached! I would absolutely make sure that there is a fuse inline with that battery just as a safety. At least a small plug in circuit breaker. This will bastardize your trailer so word of warning. It might be better overall if you switch the truck over to negative ground. In the old days the trailer you pulled didnt have battery powered brakes so it was not an issue. Today it's different with pulling small car trailers. Washington state? Or DC? Either will be a longgggg trip bobtail in a B model. I've run my truck for near 20 yrs pulling my 40 ft Haulmark box. I typically don't bobtail anymore and I have swapped air ride under mine.

How big did Mack go over 65K rears?