Freightrain

Yes. I already have countershaft figured out and waiting on more shims. Once I recheck, that is done. I have the mainshaft already checked and just got the shims needed for output bearings. https://i.postimg.cc/JhLFMTWm/IMG_20250114_214250671_MP.jpg

I got the bushing pressed out and new ones installed. It all went easy until I tried to get first gear apart. The one that was most worn. It is apparent that the previous person lock tited it in....for good! 10 ton of pressure wouldn't move it. I had to split it twice and chisel it out in pieces. Crazy! We swiped it with the pin hone to clean it all up and pressed the new bushing in. I will go back Monday and hone the bores to size. I received my new reverse idler shaft and am waiting on my shims from Kevin All for the countershaft plate. Once that shim is checked I can then install the reverse idler gears and work on getting the main shaft assembled in the case. I have the shims for the rear output bearing and that will be ready for assembly. The rear lid is at work so I can rebush it and it will be done.

I would assume Jacob would still have the valve cover spacer to make room. I thought dynatard was internal and wouldn't need the spacer. My .02

I'm pretty excited about it, when it all comes together. The 237 I have runs well, but slobbers pretty bad.

Seems like it is from research I found. Which is fine since I have a triplex. I think the truck, being a fleet truck, speced it with just a 5 spd. Not optimal but Mack must have okayed it. I've seen other older fleet trucks with 5,6,7 spd transmissions on cat and Cummins.

Yes, the ol triplex is not really built for a 315hp Maxidyne motor of this torque rating. I don't lug the 237 down below 1500 rpm. It lets me know it's not happy with the thumping it does! I'm sure the rebuilt transmission will not make the noises it used to, but I still won't lean on it hard. I put a composite disc in it when I installed the 237. I doubt it will slip like an organic would. I hoped the disc would slip before it would hurt the transmission. Driver skill surely determines if things survive or not. I'll find out shortly when I can get the new motor. It would be handy to get it put in now since the transmission is out. It all depends if I want to rebuild it also? And my time frame as the weather gets better this spring. Today's update: Received my new bushings. Make some slugs to use to remove old/install new bushings. Worked like a charm. Just need to wash the gears up, install new bushings and then hone to size. I have last new bearing coming next week along with reverse idler shaft. All that is left is to start assembling it.

Al Rhino.

I rolled this over with breaker bar and it went smoothly so that is why I bought it. Zero temperatures and lack of pieces to make it run on a whim I had to just roll it over. Oil clean, antifreeze was already drain.

Yes, cab is scrap. Yard said he gets trucks from this place and typically the vac is junk and reason it is junked. Too pricey to fix an old truck. Likely can't find drivers for old stick shift truck anyhow. Once weather warms up I will try to get it started. I may get an inframe kit for it just because. Easier to work on it sitting on the ground than in the frame of my truck! I was going to rebuild the 237, but might as well go BIG.

Facebook marketplace. Listed as 285. Actually 315. Etaz673. 31k miles. Was a Vacuum truck so miles are low, probably lots of hours. No problem. Looks like new turbo and air compressor. It may have had cam/lifters because side covers look like they have been resealed. Read that it is common with these engines. Looked at yesterday and will be picking it up as soon as it gets pulled. Getting 5 spd with it. That will be resold. Will be next motor for the B in the coming years.

Yup, pretty sure that was at Mack Pack get together years back. Jay Barbe owns the R. He used to visit here. Really cool, period correct resto. He brought it to our Ashland show last year? 711 Triplex if I recall.

-15 in Ohio. Ugh. Enjoy the heat!

-15* this morning in NE Ohio. Screw this!! News said coldest calender date in 40 yrs.

😄 Oops, saw that and didn't go back to fix it. Yuns would figger it out.....

I used some clutch shims to just play with countershaft preload and I need about .025 more then I have. I will work on that. No I also got the mainshaft figured out. I stacked the bearings on each side of housing and clamped in a vice and used a dual indicator to see what kind of wiggle I had. Suppose to be .001-.005. Using existing shims I was at .004. Close enough. I warned the bearings and installed them and put thrust plate in the groove. All is snug so that worked out. I was able to find NOS gear bushings on eBay last night. Should be here Saturday. If that works out, I won't have to make bushings!! Super stoked about that. Hope to get things coming together in the next few weeks.

Likely not. 😲

Maybe it was a KW? Been awhile since I've seen it. I was just thinking the other day if he is out of danger zone? Thought I might call him and see what's up.

Bentos' Pete also?

Countershaft is by torque using a fish scale and pulling a rope wrapped around the shaft. 8-11# pull if I recall. Mainshaft is +.001 Freeplay I think. Have to go out and read specs. I'll make shims but Kevin All is sending me a few pieces so I asked if he had any shims laying around. He said he had a trans with back box already off it.

I picked up my box of bearings yesterday so I got some assembly work done last night. I tried using the oven to preheat the bearings so they would drop on but by the time I ran through the snow to the garage, even having them wrapped up, they cooled off too much. I ended up using my small rosebud torch head to get them hot enough to drop on. Worked well. I got the countershaft in the main box, then set the back box on and tried seeing what the preload was with my old shims. Way too tight. Will work on getting more/making some. I will also get bearings mocked up for mainshaft to see what kind of shim pack I will need before pressing them on. Little by Little.......

Naw, looks like something was drug out of the cab and scraped it. When I bought my 64 galaxie2 dr from out of state I had to take to a dealership and have them check the VIN. Car was not running, it was a PITA but it passed and I got a clear OH title. Another story, was going to take my ATV to Hocking hills to ride with a group. You have to have a state sticker and insurance. When I bought it new in 99 it didn't have a title. I had to load it and take to dealership for inspection. They didn't even come out and look at it, just stamped paperwork. Then go to state license bureau and they have to do it again(they never went out to look at it either). What a PITA for nothing. I get to park and they didn't inspect it either to confirm I had sticker and insurance. What a joke. All that for one trip, never been back.

Ron Smith is 39 Baby Mack on BMT.

All permanent gensets have disconnects that are built in so that it can't backfeed. Before even starting a generator, turn off your main breaker(large one usually at the top of panel) and then go about hooking up Genset and get it running. Write it down if need be as special instructions to do it the same everytime you need power. Basic consideration is an extension cord is good for 15 amps. One is good for a frig and a few lights and maybe a well pump. One for furnace, one for AC is safe. The starting current on the motors is what really hurts on big items. Example: 3600 watt generator is good for 30 amps (3600 watt/ 120volt = 30amps). So two extension cords.

Yes, I have an electronic speedo thanks to Rob back about 15 yrs ago. I machined the reluctor wheel and the tail housing for the sender. Rob got the Speedo and sensor. Works flawless. Clean case NOS fork Clean bolts Gasket kit from PAI nhttps://i.postimSPAI GGS-3960 MAISSION GASKET KIT 8.5

Remember, the DMV is typically a private run company doing the work for the state (at least in Ohio) so they have absolutely NO clue about much. You can't take their words as law, it is just their opinion. I put truck plates on my B at first, then IFTA. One year of that and I put Historical tags on it.and never looked back. Been three states away, plenty of scale houses and no one really cares. I keep it looking nice and that helps in my opinion. But with the "rat rod" crap running around these days I think it is less of an issue. My trailer is lettered up with my race car name but at some point that will get removed if I ever change trailers or reside this one. 23 yrs and I keep my nose clean.