Freightrain

Yes, some of the newer LED lights have circuitry built in to make them more user friendly.

Cut the back wall out to outline the braces. NO going back now!!! I welded a strip around for something to screw the boot to. I made a steel strip to bolt around the inside of the bunk so I had something to weld the new opening to. I formed everything myself with a stretcher/shrinker. A new alum skin Ready for new vinyl boot cover installation I had a local shop sew up the vinyl to fit the opening I mocked up What it looks from the outside(the bunk has since been painted to match the truck). Still no water leaks either. New front wall for the bunk that I made from 1/4" Luan and vinyl I've never gotten around to getting a new headliner and back wall made. It's on the "to do" list...someday. It was coming together by spring. I drove it to the ATHS national show in South Bend, Indiana a few weeks later. What it looked like just after I bought it. It's been a 20 yr on going project.

I cut my down along that bracing. It's not horrible to crawl through as it is basically double the size of the original window opening. I'll get those pics posted tonight.

If you can, look at the accy drive on front lower passenger side of engine. The engine model will be stamped across the top. Might have to wire brush it to see it. "ENDT676.....". Something like that.

If you would get an air/electric brake controller (like I have) polarity would not be an issue. It is just an air cyl that moves a wiper over a rheostat. Polarity is no issue. It is a Warner 1300-80. https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Warner-Brake-Controller-1300-80.aspx If you use a new electronic version the issue is the blue brake wire would put 12v positive to the brakes and it would need 12v neg. Other issue is if you have any LED bulbs, they would not work due to improper polarity.

Mines a 42" Benz. Yes, I did stretch the frame. I have a bunch of pictures I can share of how I cut the back of the cab. Have to wait til I get on home computer. I had dreams of building my own bunk to mimic a stainless steel model. The Benz was free....so that was a no brainer.

Bob you should know that in one of my circle of friends that is my name because I can make anything work. Lol. About 10 yrs ago(when I still had dark hair), while on a business trip to Mexico.... I'm in the plant office and a couple workers in the corner point at me and mumble something. Come to find out, while I was dressed in my usual attire of jeans, boots and leather coat they said I looked like Chuck Norris. Lol. Now since I'm old and grey my gf says I look like Sam Elliot when I roll up on my harley(like in the movie Roadhouse).

Possible to fabricate a new one if need be. Some 1/4" plate and a piece of radius tubing. I had to make a thermostat housing for my Galaxie with the blower on it. No one makes one the way I needed it to fit.

For comparison, the Union Pacific Big Boy is 132ft long and 1.2 mil lbs. It is a 4-8-8-4 articulated locomotive. It only ran out west because it can not negotiate any tight radii. If you look on Youtube, the UP did a whole bunch of videos of the restoration. Talk about an undertaking. Restoring a truck pales in size and scope!

I downloaded one of the 765 run bys. Just shakes the ground. Got a hair full of soot and leaves!

Well, maybe it just seems like a smaller opening. Guess a tape measure won't lie.

Likely "wiggle room" for factory assembly and not worrying if it will fit. Is there enough room behind the dash for the plumbing? You realize the drivers door will no longer open as far? I'm a skinny ass but it is still a bitch to get in the passenger side of the truck. I put a felt bumper on the air cleaner bracket so as not to accidentally dent my fresh NOS door shells if you happen to throw the door open too hard.

The smaller 53 ci motors really buzz when you wind them up. Something the larger 71 and 92 just dont do.

Last month the Cuyahoga Valley brought the Nickel Plate 765 over from Indiana and used it for their excursion for a couple weekends. We rode it, they dump you off and do a couple fly bys for video and pictures. I have them on my phone, I need to get them over to youtube so others can enjoy it. It just sends chills down my spine. I'd really like to get to see a Big Boy in person someday. I really enjoyed the restoration videos that UP put up. I couldn't imagine what it took to do that locomotive. No different then what worked on actually.

Very cool!! Im a member of a local railway preservation society and they are rebuilding old 4020. It used to pull the excursion for the Cuyahoga Valley. I rode it back on the 70s. I am not active with them just due to my own schedule and the 1+hr drive to get to Cleveland. I did take the opportunity to drive their old 49 Alco RS3 a few years back when they offered 1 hr at the throttle. My father was a big railfan, as am I.

Lots of pullers run them behind hot V8 macks.

Does an R model have the removable stop plate for the window? You need to get that off first to allow the window to drop low enough to clear the top of door( If it is like a B model). If the window is broke loose and at the bottom of the door it might take some finesse to get door panel out while juggling the window glass. Yes, remove lock cylinder and not sure about outside door handle?(again not sure how it compares to a B).

The short can(bottom pic) is also a winter(cold climate) version if I recall where it can pull air from the engine compartment so it has less chance of freezing. Or is there two short versions? I bought my riser for my air cleaner from Matt Pfahl. Its a chrome pipe.

Tom is "Fuzzy Buzzard".

I saw a clip on facebook the other day where some news media got him at home and was interviewing him. He was adamant about not discussing the event but they were asking him questions. He kept stating he was just being nice to even say anything. Once done he basically told them to leave his family alone. Found it.

Tom Gannaway did a conversion on his wrecker to get a pull clutch for his eaton 10 spd. Used the existing pedal and such and then somehow reversed it on the frame. He told me how, but it's been a year ago?

I have a tank with electric valve but when I got the alum tank it had air valve and getting that big valve unscrewed from the alum tank wasn't happening....so I left it alone.

But do the lights work??

Dennis, when I converted mine over I followed Vince VanNewkirks advice. Ditch the old steam valve in the cab and install a tank mounted valve with remote operation. I really wanted that old valve but Vince said it would always be a problem. He runs air start on all his work trucks. The alum tank came with air operated valve on the tank(wished it would have been electric so I could use existing starter button). I bought a new air push button for the dash, rebuilt the valve on the tank and a new check valve into the tank. It holds over 100# for 7 months with no problem. The only line off the tank goes to the starter so there are no chances for leaks while sitting. The control valve is all new so it too should last a long time.

Maybe its the 517 axle that is the bastard part trying to swap hubs? Just a guess.