Freightrain

That KW looks worth the money.

Neat piece of history. Interesting story behind it. Crazy Mack could have quite the business with offering that still today if things would have gone better back then.

I do that with my three boxes. Put triplex in gear and leave my aux in neutral to move things around while building air.

I rebuilt the shifters in my truck. Bit of TIG welding to get the ball back to size and then very careful grinding until they fit in the rails and shifted smoothly. Great work so far!

Mine is single OD. If i had the chance I would take some more gear out of the back. When I did the air ride I put 4.10. I think I would have left the 3.70 in it had I known I was doing a repower. The clip had 3.70 but I knew I didnt have the power to pull it so the yard let me swap it out for no charge. Ya, my triplex is noisy. Some day I would like to replace it with something else.

Looks to be just a 5 spd truck. Why would someone go through all this auction hub bub for selling it? With all the fees, it's a loosing proposition.

I like the KW myself.

I just bought new aluminum tanks! Only hard work was digging into the wallet to pay for them. Lol. At $700 each I really didnt think it was bad to never have to deal with 60 yr old tanks again.

Very cool commercial! It's scary when you give production crews your vehicle for their "use". Bad things can happen. Glad it worked out so well for you son's friend. I remember a story from way back about Bob Chandler and Bigfoot when it was used in the movie "Take this job and shove it". Seems the crew was just trashing it. Bob stepped in and took over. In the final scene, where the truck runs through the guard shack...it was Bob driving. Seems he had to shave his beard off to fit the character.

I'd have to look to see if I kept the part number from the gasket kit for my 237 when I pulled the heads off. It was a complete kit and everything from the heads down should be the same. I got it off Ebay, it was a Felpro kit. I had my air compressor rebuilt about 17 yrs ago at a place in Southern Ohio(of rt 36). Not sure they are still around. It was $500, but I had it back in 3 days.

Found some reading for anyone that wants to know how to do it: http://starautoelectric.com/instruction-for-polarizing-generator/ In all the years I have been in business, I have heard many versions on how to polarize a generator and voltage regulator. Some versions are correct, others are totally wrong. Polarization is a procedure which matches the polarity for the generator and the voltage regulator. The majority of the vehicles are manufactured negative ground although some of the older vehicles were manufactured positive ground. The generator has to be set up for either polarity. The generator will charge either way, however the voltage regulator has only one polarity. Whenever the battery is disconnected from the vehicle for any reason the polarization procedure should be performed. The recommendation on how to polarize a charging system is the following: After the installation of a battery, generator or voltage regulator follow these procedures. The terminals on the voltage regulator are labeled with letters and this is where you will do the polarizing procedure. Both of the components will have battery power so do not start the vehicle or turn on the ignition switch before polarizing them. You will need a small piece of wire fourteen or sixteen gauge with alligator clips on the ends. Find the “B” terminal on the regulator and attach one of the alligator clips, find the “D” terminal and touch the terminal with the other alligator clip. You can touch the terminals a few times and it will produce a soft light spark. Under no circumstances touch the “F” terminal or any other part of the regulator or you could damage the regulator. For the Lucas voltage regulators that have the teminals labeled A1, A, F, D, E, the polarization procedure is the same however the terminals that will be used are the “D” terminal and either the “A” or “A1” depending on which teminal is used on the vehicle. Either terminal can be used if wires are going to both terminals. Start the vehicle and you should see the red generator light go off on the instrument panel, you may have to rev the engine up a few RPM, generators have a tendency not to charge at idle speed. If you have a gauge on the instrument panel the gauge will respond accordingly. Look for more technical information in the future on these page.

Ya, my air starter got stiff a year ago, so I bought the automatic oiler and installed it. Tap off the fuel line. It uses fuel pressure to fill a small cavity, then the spring closes that valve. Then once you hit the air button, it pushes that volume of fuel into the starter to lubricate the vanes. That is the feed side, so I can't see any reason for a pressure relief. I think the spring is just there to hold it open. I would bet if you rotate it over about 90* CW, the spring will then hold it closed. Just guessing.

I have one of those set ups on my truck, but it is not a hand valve. Can't recall if mine is on the return line?, but goes to a poppet valve that feeds into the air line to the starter.

Yup. Remember the motor video from years back and some of the truck build update.

Like I said, there isn't much to them. Tear it apart and see how the sealing surfaces are. Might have a piece of gunk in it from the get go? Poor machining?

Hmm, someones emergency shut off? Or was it a security device so that it won't start?

That big detroit powered Dodge is/was Tony Youngbloods. It made one of the videos from Lyndsey back in the ATHS video tape days. I have the full collection.

That is the problem with how OEM makes the locks function, especially on newer vehicles. I found the kit you bought and they don't seem to offer any assistance with wiring. I read through some of the Q/A on Amazon and it seems they leave finding out how to wire it to the buyer. The box has the same basic look of what mine has with the same common connector. My Bulldog kit came with a little gadget that you could use to confirm if the lock uses + or - pulses to operate. My guess is you have it backwards and thus it blew the fuse. I suppose a simple analog voltmeter would do the same just see which lead makes the me meter read forward.

You can use a generator to charge negative ground power. Just need to have the polarity set on the generator> There is a sequence to follow to do this. Besides that, it should be no big deal. I know most just put an alternator on just because it's easier(I did).

Can't really add much, but I know adding remote locks to my Ford trucks was not a big deal. I know there are a couple variations of how the locks work electrically and that defines how it gets hooked up. There again, I have no info on how Mack does it. What aftermarket kit did you buy? I used Bulldog Security on my pickups.

Well, not quite that kind, but I'll say on a positive note! The season started late, like everything this year. Had motor issues over the winter but got them straightened out. Didn't really race until the end of June? With little racing, I started running the car on off weekends, just playing and trying to do some testing on things to handle the increased power. In doing so, I dropped it on the oil pan one day, breaking the fan off the radiator and cutting it open, crunching the bottom of the oil pan enough I was concerned about the pickup tube so out it came. With a new pan and radiator in the car I got back out to play and promptly chunked first gear while about 2 ft in the air on launch. Bang! It fell to earth, but no real damage this time since I built a bump stop across the front crossmember to take the hit instead of headers/oil pan. I get a new first gear(it does this every few years just from wear/tear) and get back to racing in my stick group. I win a race in the first of August and runner up at the next race which put in first place in points by basically 2 rounds(10 pts). The next few races, the top 3 stayed in place because we all sucked badly and went out first round each time(ugh, sometimes you can't buy a round). We went to Pittsburgh the end of Sept for a two day event. Again, the top 3 went out first round on Saturday. Sunday I end up having to run #2 in points. I win that round, but lose the next. #3 and 4 did switch positions after going a couple rounds more then 1 and 2. I'm still in first place though and ONE race left. A rescheduled race from spring time. In the mean time I go to Dragway 42 for their Halloween Thing race the first weekend of Oct. Three days, trick/treat, wheelie contest, costume contest, burnout contest, etc. Just a real fun time. I go a couple rounds on friday night race, but after unloading the car Sat morning I do my walk around and check tire pressures. I find a crack in the right front rim!! Not good. These rims are very thin(1/2"), so they are very flimsy and I keep my eyes on them. I won them back in 2006, so I have 13 yrs on them. Somehow, Friday night I cracked it? I was done for the weekend. I come home and swap out my good old Centerline front rims so I can race the final stick race. This past Saturday was the race for all races. We had 4 racers in the hunt for the championship. With basically one round between them. Talk about pressure!!!!! Ugh. I get there, unload and we get our first time run. There are issues. Car won't pull over 6K rpm, seemed like clutch slippage so I put 1/2 turn in the clutch to add some grip. There are 6 screws you can turn to adjust the spring pressure through a hole in the bellhousing. Next pass, the same issue, but I can feel the motor stumbling. WTH? I get back and pull plugs. Well, I wanted to, but seems these new heads have a very small pocket milled for spark plugs and I don't have a "custom" socket made yet so I borrow one from a friend. Four of eight plugs are barely snug, the ratchet basically just spins loose, no effort. One plug had the ground strap broke off, which is more common of these race plugs. So I dig out an old set I keep just for these kinds of days. I pull the valve covers to make sure the valvetrain is okay, which it was. I throw a number on the car and go up for first round. I win it. Whew. Onto round two. I win that one. Onto round three, I win it also......but the car really stood up and it broke one of the wheelie bar tubes off. Been there, this was the other side compared to a couple years ago. Tubing is too thin, car is too heavy and I'm going to finally remedy that this winter. I have to quickly do some chassis adjustments so the car stays closer to the ground. I roll under and put 4 clicks in the front shocks, take 4 clicks out of the back shocks and add 1/2 lb of air to the slicks and head up for round four(semi finals). I was having damn good lights(reaction times) all day and I had lane choice. I was running a slightly slower car this time, I get a better light and take the win light. WOW, onto the final. I now have to run #2 in points, in the final. We go up, I have a better light, but ran under by .015 seconds so I gave the win to #2. BUT, remember back about the point spread. I was actually 6 pts ahead, so even with his win(gets extra 5 points), he is ONE POINT short of the points lead which makes me the CHAMPION for 2020!!! Our points systems is 5/round, but you can get 1 point for best reaction of the day, or 2 points for rain out(for showing up), so it isn't always an even 5 between racers in the points chase. That one point I got sometime back earlier in the summer got me the championship today. One measly point. I haven't had a championship win since 2009. I keep myself in the top 10 for the most part every year out of 30+ racers. It was a tough season, glad it's over though and I can relax. Only problem is it's 7 months before it starts again(as long as this crap we're living in today doesn't screw us over next year). Time will tell. Hope I didn't put anyone to sleep reading all that. Here is a FB link to the final round. Sorry, I didn't take the video so I can't save it to anything else. https://m.facebook.com/groups/348745654742?view=permalink&id=10158746753579743&comment_id=10158746855724743&notif_t=group_comment_mention&notif_id=1602381335232698&ref=m_notif&hc_location=ufi

Ditto........

I was being a sarcastic POS for Randy's "love" of Detroit's. Which he is either ignoring it or just won't respond. 😜 I too like them old poop spreaders. My first truck was a '72 1210 2wd.

No problemo..... I had to learn it myself as I had no clue. Of course it was easy on an engine sitting on the floor in the garage. I did have to replace the transfer pump the following summer due to low pressure on a hard pull, it would run out of guts about 1/2 way up a long grade. The hand pump was fine. I put a small fuel pressure gauge strapped to the air cleaner so I could watch it on the hills. That is where I found out what was going wrong. Put a reman pump on it and she was like a new puppy again. Photo from google. Going from faded memory there is a disc on top and bottom, "inlet' and "outlet". Not really hard to figure out, but watch dropping parts if taking it apart on the truck. Though there only 2 bolts holding this onto the transfer pump, so removal would make it easier to work on a bench.