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Freightrain

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Freightrain

  1. Agree, for $10k you got a decent buy. Not sure what all is wrong with it but the combination of parts is likely worth it.
  2. My .02. Find another truck with the power you want. Thats a 2 valve Maxidyne motor. Good reliable motor. Collecting all the parts to upgrade will be be more then just repowering it if you can find a good 315hp version. Not sure how safely you can go up with HP on that 2 valve engine? There are guys on here that can give you that info. It should have a 5 spd. I put a 237 in my B and run a 15 spd triplex. I like being able to split gears even though you are not supposed to need to.
  3. Just saw this also. My relay valve blew the diaphram and dumped my air tank. Luckily I was in the driveway! Hopped in pickup and ran to parts store and got new valve. Only lasted 20 yrs. Lol.
  4. I'll be seeing Doug tomorrow at Ashland show. I might still have a usable one. I only run one battery box anymore. I will have to look around.
  5. John DeChant has his own restored tridrive. There has been plenty of pictures posted. It is also a very nice truck.
  6. Ive wondered if that was not to keep fuel from overflowing and running into the engine? Something along those lines?
  7. Didn't realize that was your B model. I've seen it in videos before.
  8. What a sad day for many. I too really enjoyed his daily stories on all the trucks he has put his hands on.
  9. If the throttle is anything like a B, you might be able to salvage it. Remove pedal, some heat might break the pin loose? If not drill it and replace pin? Worth a shot if the pedal itself isn't worn paper thin and need replaced. Watts has both pedal assemblies. http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=60_77
  10. Hogans Heroes 10-11 pm!!!! My go to show and my ringtone on my phone.
  11. Num,num,num....
  12. Even on my B, I i just fabbed up mirror image of the passenger side mounts. Looks factory.
  13. The silicone is working fairly well right now. Time will tell if it gets burnt up over time.
  14. How unique is that steel tracked grader? Never saw one like that. That would be a cool rebuild for someone that plays at the dirt shows.
  15. Took a trip yesterday and the silicone is surviving. Not 100% sealed tight but not blowing out all around the connection. It's a win for now because you can't smell it in the cab anymore.
  16. I run my 237 with dual 4" pipes. Looks right, sounds right.
  17. It turned out fantastic! Glad you finally got to take it for a drive. It took me months to get smooth with my truck when I bought it. Heck I have days that I still shift like a rookie!! Lol!!
  18. Turbo is solid mounted, the downpipe is also solid mounted to manifold. The reducer basically floats between them using the rings to seal it. This movement is needed due to heat expansion.
  19. Well it's all back together. I bought some hi temp RTV(rated 750*) so we'll see how well it holds up for now. I wire wheeled everything really clean and noticed grooves worn in the adjoining sockets where the original rings were sealing. I put a nice bead around all surfaces and slipped it together. I will give it a few days before I even start it. It has to be better then nothing.
  20. No luck at dealer. I think I'll be looking at gluing it for now. That or some hi temp silicone. Changing turbo is a possibility at some time, but all depends on mounting configuration to manifold. The exhaust side is not an issue as I can make anything work.
  21. Thanks Dave. I realize I can go that route but it is too late to tear apart and let sit until I figure it out. I need the truck, so I have to be able ro know what I need before I destroy those seals getting them out. They don't overlap, they butt together.
  22. I'm just thinking that they are sprung like a piston ring...maybe not exact, but similar. No worry, I'm not going to whack it with a hammer! I know how fragile it can be. I have a good serial number to track parts, as I used it to get a band clamp for it back when I put motor in the truck.
  23. My guess is like piston rings, there is not way to distort them without breaking. Likely are cast iron.
  24. It is the adapter between the turbo and downpipe(see my first post). It leaks pretty bad due to seal rings are worn and stuck. I'm looking for options to fix properly before getting the glue out.
  25. Ok, its apart and yea, 2 rings that appear to be well worn. Wonder if anything like this is still available from Mack? Don't want to screw them up trying to remove them if I can't replace them. They are very snug right now, likely take heat to get them loose. Might stop and see my buddy Jeff at R&R Mack and see if he can help me out.
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