Freightrain

Jim was his name and I did meet up a couple times in Michigan at a race we both attended. Truck as nice in person as pictures show. He did only run it a few years though. Have not seen him in some time now.

When it stops running, it's broke. No need for the driver to know anything else LOL!! Nice Bronco. A buddy bought a local one that was parked for decades. Nice, solid unit, red/white top, automatic. Likely sit in his garage for another 20 yrs before he actually does anything with it. I'd drive the wheels off it all summer.

Connex and Stryker are "black box" export radios. No real limitations on power so they do much more then the legal 4 watts in the USA. Thus many guys like them. I have three Unidens and a President Madison base. TP tools is like 45 minutes easy of me. Been by it, but not in it. We do buy stuff for work through them for blast cabinets. We have an Eastwood store about an hour north. Never been there, but salesman at work did go up and buy a plasma cutter last year. Sure seems like I'm in the right part of the world when it comes to stores. The McMaster Carr is 45 minutes north also. I get same day service for them if you get the order in soon enough in the morning. Jegs is 2 hrs south, but don't buy much there. I do shop around and will use Amazon if need be. I do try to use local small shops if I can.

Lucky I live 15 minutes from Summit Racing. Too common that shipping is more then the part. I just order more to make it worth while. Hell you're paying all that cost, might as well get something. I agree, nothing is cheap anymore.

I use State Farm for the Mack, since they have my house, pickup and Harley. My hot rods are through Condon/Skelly and race car/trailer through Hagerty.

Just a side note. Originally I cut my rear leafs down so it would move withy race trailer on the back. After a few years one side broke. Guess those 50 yr old leafs weren't suppose to move that much? So if you plan on removing leafs so the remaining move, watch as they may break over time. May want to get new springs made?

Found it, thanks.

Tom, I'm in the same boat. Got all this shiny new paint to show off and no place to go!! Dave, maybe I'll make Gerharts this year? Depends on my racing schedule and "if" anything actually starts this year???

So, in reality you could start out in like 4th over and shift it twice to get up to speed? LoL!

I'm waiting for the hammer to drop on our local show that weekend. Time will tell.

Plus the offset cab allowed better visibility to the rear.

Ditto on the air start. Changed mine over a few years ago. With new air parts it holds air for 6 months with no problem. Installed an automatic oiler and now I don't have to worry about vanes drying up over winter. I also added a dual pressure gauge so I can monitor the start tank pressure.

Based in Switzerland. I've watched quite a few of their videos on Youtube. One of my favorite vids:

Yes, I agree. His plan was to use the truck to move the boats around. He was not around for long, especially once he changed directions and sold the truck. He contacted me about driving it to the new owners. If you keep the majority of the spring pack, then you would not have to rely on so much air pressure to support the front end, which in turn would allow the bag to "move" easier and absorb some of the motion. I remember talk of leaving the springs alone, and just using enough air pressure to just raise the front end slightly. That would allow some spring action from the bags. Definitely need something better then the factory shocks!

Yes, this was done before. A fellow many years ago on here did it. Same scenario, remove a couple springs and add bags. Not sure if anyone around here today remembers Dale Hamilton? He restored a beautiful B67 and then sold it. I've had the same thoughts. That stiff front axle really pounds on you.

So using that calculator it is 400# each panel(1600# for all four sides). The ends are 250# each. So that makes it 2100# just for the tank. Add a few baffles(say #200 each) and you are at 2500# for rough numbers.

So is it a round tank? 67" dia x 113" long? Using an online calculator that is about 1300# for 3/16" wall, though that does not take into effect the end plates or baffles. Adding a few hundred pounds would maybe get you in the ballpark. https://www.industrialmetalsupply.com/Weight-Calculator

We have our Ashland show in June. Hope things are back in working order by then??

Outstanding work Vlad. You have surely gone above and beyond to make that cab as new as possible.

My Jake spacers aren't perfect matches to the valve cover either, but do like mentioned and flatten the cover slightly to increase clamp pressure when tightening the bolts. They do bottom out on a shoulder of the bolt. New sealing washer on top might also help. Maybe mock up without gaskets might give you some insight on how much crush you will get.

Crazy stuff. Just a bit more off center then EJ Potter and his rocket motorcycles LOL!! There is already talk about "IF" the FE reunion gets cancelled the end of April? Time will tell. I made a quick stop at the store last night on the way home from work for a few simple items. I passed the stockman putting up toilet paper and I asked "When will the hysteria end?". He just groaned. Luckily most of the stores around me are still fully stocked. Unlike the big Walmarts and such where all the shelves get cleared off for no reason at all. Bob, you're likely dead on with lawsuits. The first time something bad happens and they "didn't" cancel an event there will be hell to pay.

Car engine 400#. Mack truck engine 1500#. I dont care how Harbor Fraud lists it, I wouldn't use it.

Hmm, that's gunno be interesting. I know I made hooks to bolt on front and back of heads when I did mine. You might have to sling it side to side inbetween the heads since the rear of engine is buried. Hey, look at this way....you could be putting a Detroit in it!!!! Lol.

OMG, I need to borrow that Mack picture and post it on JOT. With "Bento Water" across the front it is PERFECT to hound Aaron with. LOL!!!