Freightrain

Them cords have a few miles left in them.....😲 I put new drives on my truck this spring. They were dated 2001. Still looked brand new, but I knew I was rolling the dice every time I took it out.

A good day of racing is when it makes it back to the trailer under its own power!

Well, pulled off the near impossible. I doubled up this past weekend. I won both days. Took home ALL the money. $1000 to win each day. (This was sponsor money that guaranteed payout. If not, it goes by car count). Bonus pot $165 and $105( basically side bet by any racer that wants to enter each day, $25 each day). $25 Bounty. That is put on winner of previous race. So Sunday there was a bounty on me. If you beat me, you get $25. If no one beats me, I get the $25. In all, I had enough money to get some fuel for the trip home(30 miles). 😂 Magnolia dragstrip was my home track when I started racing in 1995. It is a real rough track now and is in need of repair. We have typically only done one 2 day event at the end of the season at Pittsburgh. Only once has that been close to being a double up winner. Friend won Sat, runnered up Sun. So this is a first for our group. Racing is a real box of chocolates. You can't count on anything. You do your best and hope the sun is shining in your lane. I am no master but glad that the sun shines on me.

The small lines are the control side(brake pedal) which opens a valve to apply air to the chambers. It is done this way for quicker reaction. The large lines are the main supply from air tank. I just replaced my relay(looks like yours). It was leaking severely suddenly. Likely O ring inside blew out. It was pretty old. If you are getting air from a large line, and replaced relay, then something is activating it. Remove the small control line. It should not have air pressure applied unless pedal is depressed.

Mine was painted grey like the engine.

I remember my new 96 F350. I went to do the first oil change and I literally had to destroy the oil filter to get it off. The factory puts them on dry and tight!! No leaks allowed.

Well I picked up a different spring. Longer, lighter tension. Didn't work. My pump shaft has a snug spot right at the idle position and the new spring would not pull it down all the way. Just that last touch. Typically just enough to keep the Jake switch from activating also. I moved the mounting point way out but not enough. I reused the original spring, made a new bracket to split the difference between holes on the side of the pump and it seems to be okay. Tight enough to get it to full idle and repeatedly made the Jake switch work. Now, next weekend I will see if it does the wobble deal driving me down the road. I don't think it should as the tension is quite a bit lower. The rod mounts on the firewall don't seem to be flexing to get the arm moving.

I know I can make a Lokar cable work. But I am going to work on spring tension first.

Ok fellas, I think I may be onto sumtin. I was out readjusting the rod ratios to get WOT. I was a bit off after installing new ends. The rod was a bit too long and I could tell she was down a few pounds of boost last weekend. While blocking the pedal at WOT, I was adjusting the hemi on the pump end. I noticed that there was flex in the rod as I pulled it to attach the pump arm. Hmmm. Ya, after watching things I see that the plate on the firewall that holds the rod, was flexing back and forth. Ya, just like the throttle is doing going down the road. Ya! I had replaced the return spring 20? yrs ago and got something "similar". Well, it is wayyyyy to tight. Causing the rod mounts to flex, making it waver the throttle. Dammit, WTH. So I will be hitting the local hardware which has a great selection of springs to try to come up with something a touch lighter. I noted the spring, being mounted so close to the pivot point on the pump arm, only stretches about 1" at WOT. The spring I had was stretched 3" just to get it installed. Way too stout. Hope to get back to update everyone soon. Won't be driving it until the 27th for my next race.

The 99 F450 I ordered for work is still running well. 330k miles. It had valve cover harnesses replaced(common run issues). I keep up on oil changes, because of HUEI. Had a clutch replaced due to bad driver(I warned the boss at the time, but who was I to say). The early pre power strokes were gutless. Couldn't make enough power to hurt anything or pass anything on the highway. We had a 7.3 truck previous to the 99 PSD. Like an old Mack, slow and steady wins the race.

I would get rid of the fan just for ease of movement. It won't effect the height,but weight and all those blades to deal with? Though the bolts won't be sticking out, so you will save 1/2" of space.

The late 7.3 got cats(not sure if it was a CA thing? ) when it went to 275 HP. Like I mentioned, mine was only 235. I was almost going to order a new one but the Mack came into the picture and I sold the PSD in fall 02. Picture from Jan 01, there were 4 of us going to West Palm Beach to race. Luckily it was no snow around. We did get blasted in Bristol and truck was a mess after that. I was in high cotton back then! New truck, new trailer. All shiny and black!

When I took delivery of my 2000 CC DRW PSD 6 spd, I cut the muffler off right quick. This was a pre CAT engine, so it sounded like a mini E9. They put cats on them in 02? They rated them at 275 HP, mine was 235 HP. All stock beyond that. Ran well, could pull Fancy Gap at 65 mph with my 14k lb trailer in 6th gear just fluctuating the throttle. I really do miss that truck.

Almost not enough room for protection AND get pump out of there. I know the bolts literally just unscrew enough to get them to wiggle out of fan and out. If they were 1/4" longer, you would have to pull radiator to get fan off. If you pull fenders, you may be able to work easier in that area without having to lean over the fenders.

Understood. It really isn't a big repair but poking a hole in the radiator would make it quite expensive! I don't think there is a better way to repair the leak. Don't think silicone will seal the bolts. So, like 6-7 yrs ago I was helping build a 41 Willy's for a gentleman. The alternator was acting up and the paint guy decided to remove it. He goofed and punched a hole in the custom radiator. That was a $1000 oops. He was pissed, "I'm a paint guy, not a mechanic!!". He was friends of the owner of the car. Had to reorder another radiator.

You should be able to get pump out with radiator in. I never had to try, but I know the fan is tight getting the bolts out of it. They are just short enough to remove.

Fire truck engine doesn't have one.

It will drive smooth, on a smooth road. Get a washboard surface, and it starts. It's almost rhythmic. Taa, taa, taa, taa, taa... The pedal is mounted to the floor, rod down through the floor to the arm that runs across the firewall. From there a rod goes to the pump arm. I need to buy a new pedal as the mounting bracket is broken and really corroded. It works okay but need to improve it. The firewall rod is only held by rolled pieces of flat stock. It's sloppy, and no real way to fix that better. The left side bracket is literally up against the back of the block. It is tight. I removed the passenger side and slipped a piece of 1/16" wall nylon tube to snug up the slop(wear) between rod and bracket. If the cab or engine wiggles around, it is going to wiggle the throttle. Thus if I convert to a cable, it won't be able to effect anything.

It always comes down to "follow the money". Greed controls everything.

Mine only has one arm. The hand throttle (not there anymore) just went through a hole to pull the same arm that the foot is attached to. I basically put the cruise control on the same set up. It is a cable, so any shake doesn't transmit to the throttle. My only thought is the linkage on the firewall is causing the chop. Either the engine or cab is shaking and wiggling the throttle.

Seems it has manifested to a point of my insanity. Likely been doing it awhile?? If I just hold the throttle steady going down the road or highway, the truck "shimmies" enough to shake/wiggle the throttle linkage and it makes it "chop". I can hear it out the window in the exhaust and in the engine compartment. If I set the cruise, it stays smooth(cable driven). I replaced a few heim ends in the linkage to try to take some of the slack out, but it still does it. I'm ready to convert to cable throttle if need be. It's just annoying as hell. As long as I am into the throttle, it is smooth. Hold a steady speed, chop, chop, chop, chop..... I don't think it is the govenor or it would do it with the cruise(which it doesn't). Watched a video from Macungie, and watched a B model leaving and I heard that stutter as he just slowly cruised along. I guess I'm not the only one?

I know what you speak of. I used that mounting for my AC compressor. I moved the filter to a bracket I made on the frame. My guess you need to pull the water pump housing off the front of engine and install new gaskets. I guess it is seeping through to the bolt area. No real way to fix it but tear into it. Shouldn't be a bad job actually. My 237 was missing all that stuff and had to reuse off my 673. Bolts to front of block at water passage(where chain is attached in picture)and ties into oil cooler(or bypass hose like mine since the 673 didn't have a cooler).

We have some in Akron, Ohio. Not sure why, maybe they were cheap leftovers from NYC?

Like tire sensors, they are a pain in the ass when they constantly fail. But, every tire still has a valve stem which allows a person to check the level(or put air in). My GFs 2009 Liberty eats tire sensors like candy at $100 each. We gave up years ago and just put up with the constant "tire light" on the dash. Smdh.

I have a piece of jute insulation,Mack rubber pad, and a hunk of carpet on the floor. It is cut tight and seals the clutch pedal and shifters pretty well. What I want to do is make a rubber gasket out of a pc of inner tube and hose clamp it to the column and bolt to the floor. Shouldn't have to worry about it for quite some time. Just need to get around to doing it.