Freightrain

Okay, I thought maybe it was an air valve, but since it is lighted, I realize it is a push/pull lighted switch(sorry, I couldn't make it out in the picture). Since it is just a chassis now, it likely controlled something that is no longer there. With no tag on the dash, it was certainly not factory.

Not daring enough to pull it and see what happens??? Lol! Welcome aboard. Pretty serious fleet you have there.

I think the biggest drawback is the single countershaft. They won't take the torque no matter what you try to upgrade inside.

Sister bought steel wheels and snow grip tires for her mustang a few years back.

I ground the weld and removed/replaced the center pin. They a quick tack to hold new pin in. Not a big deal. I think i used needle nose vise grips to screw the spring back in. Just have to watch getting the last turn in and seated. Took a few tries. Did mine last winter.

I think those tapers are suppose to be there? It doesn't look worn but on the two edge(you can see the polished points). I welded those tips to tighten them up when in gear. It took some fine tuning to make it shift properly, but works fine. Not as much slop in handle when in a gear. The spring just kinda screws up into the cup. You see the tabs, that is what the large diameter of the spring sits on. Might take a few tries(like mine) but you should be able to roll it back up in there.

It wont pop out removing tower. I took pictures of mine. They are simple to understand once you remove tower.

I just rebuilt(tightened up) the towers in my triplex. Not much to them, just unbolt it and lift it up. The handle mounts on a pin, which is likely really worn. I welded the ball on the end of the shift arm to tighten the slop between gears. I measured the slot in the shift rail and carefully ground it to fit. Not perfect, but better.

Yup, mine is in that range depending on the ambient air temperature. I know Tom's new turbo is in the low 20 range if I recall our conversation. Little more air can make a little more power and I think his burns a bit cleaner then mine. Mine smokes like an ol 237 when starting out. More air would help eliminate that over fueling situation at lower rpm. My motor was tuned on the safe side being a fire truck engine. Thus it would barely get to 900* on a hard pull. Giving it a touch more fuel boosted that number and didn't hurt fuel mileage. I don't lug it down hard due to Triplex. Around 1500 rpm is all it likes, as it really starts to let me know if I go any lower.

I can't zoom in enough, but it almost looks like a buggy spring set up on the front axle? (mounted sideways). Could be a swivel plate on the back but doesn't seem plausible for any reason to be there. Just looks like a mount for the tank.

I had a local guy do my tank brackets. He was big in model t wheels, but that market dried up with the aging crowd doing those cars. I saw him a few weeks back at swap meet. He is basically closed up, but keeps the shop for his own tinkering. He's semi retired anyways. The fellow I worked for building the two Willy's has a product shop. He did a couple things years ago, but he stays plenty busy. He is now retired and doesn't get involved with day to day stuff.

Dang Tom...30#!! Nice. I'd like to have that much. I should have updated mine when I had it rebuilt. Do you have a part number for yours? I know we've talked about it before, but don't recall you mentioning those kind of boost numbers. Might be something I look into? You know, just because.

Not likely. A 237 only runs 15# of boost. I've hot tanked it so i know its clean. Id like to upgrade to paper filter some time. Need to find a small ss donaldson and make it fit.

You can just turn the nut on the rack a couple flats to add fuel, but that will not get you to 315 hp. You need to add enough air to increase the overall power and not burn the engine up from just a bunch more fuel. My 237 was a bit low on heat on a long pull. I adjusted the nut on the rack a few flats and I saw the pyrometer increase slightly(still under 1100 degrees).

I run 50wt motor oil in my spicer 4spd. They typically don't take a thick grease.

Takes more then turning screw in the pump. I would already have done my 237. You'll need turbo, injectors and intercooler.

The truck would need a microwave, water and a couple other things to be plated as an RV. That's what I was told years ago when I asked about it in Ohio. The trailer is not the issue, but it needs more then a cot to be an RV also(micro, water,stove,etc). I tried to get my trailer relisted as an rv, but Ohio doesn't recognize anything over 34' as an rv trailer. Mine is 40'. Catch 22. I have a racer friend in Indiana that also pulls with a B model and a tag trailer. I do have a CDL and med card so I'm legal in sorts. No log book though. If you stay within 150 miles that is a non issue.

Yes, it hauls my race trailer. I have it plated Historical. My first summer it was std truck plated, but then I was going to have to deal with IFTA, so I changed it. I've skirted any issues for 19 years now going a few states away. The scales in Ohio are "commercial trucks only", so I run on by. I've pulled into PA scales when open and have not been red lighted. Running mostly on weekends means most scales are closed.

Thanks. I've got the hood off presently and dropping them off to my painter friend for some much needed repair. One step at a time.

Downloading direct to the site has it's issues sometimes. Linking is easier because you aren't relying on the site to hold the whole photo file. Though if the hosting site fails, so does the picture. I lost a ton of photos when Photo bucket tried to strong arm a big yearly fee. I closed my account and all my posts from years ago lost the picture links I posted.

You can do it two ways Dave. When your in the box typing your post, look down below where it says "drag files here to attach or choose files". If you click "choose file" it will open a new box on your screen that will allow you to pick a file from your computer and it will download it to the site and attach it to your post. OR you can open an account at places like Postimage.org. It's free to sign up and it will hold all your pictures(once you download them there) so you can post them anyplace. I don't recall what the file limit is here at BMT, but there is limitations and once you reach that you can't download anymore pictures to BMT. I use Postimage. Once you have them there you just click a link at postimage and then "paste" it into your post. Like this: It sounds confusing, but once you do it a couple times, it really is simple(even if you have to write down the list of steps it takes).

Love the rain cap on the stack. Very classic look.

My first truck was a '72 1210 2wd pickup. Learned a lot working on it. It was a ex township road truck(ya, beat to pieces and safety yellow). 345 would not pass a gas station. Still like the utilitarian look of a IH pickup. They sure did rust to pieces(like most vehicles of the day). Mine came with no inner fenders(or hood hinges), floors were vaguely there, though the bed was welded up pretty solid. I need to dig up the picture I have from 1982? My buddy from jr high grew up with Travelalls. First was a '66, then a '72. I have a picture of the '72(green with woodgrain). He also had a '72 1210 4wd stepside for a short time. It got burnt up in a garage fire while doing some patch work on it. It had a 392 with Holley 4bbl. Sure glad gas was only like $.50/gal back then.

I put a 40MT in my truck nearly 20 years ago. I swapped it for an air starter a couple years ago(just because I like being different). That 40 MT is very, very heavy. The air starter is a feather compared to it. You don't really have to change any wiring, other then adding a starter solenoid(like a Ford) to fire it. I removed my S/P switch and mounted the solenoid in its place, that way I could use the wire from the starter button on the dash.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48DN8QWVAJg