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Everything posted by Freightrain
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News is all about "Shock", like Howard Stern(aka "shock jock"). Everything in the media is about getting you to watch something. That in hopes you will then maybe buy whatever the commercials try to sell. It's a vicious circle and why I don't watch much TV anymore. I catch the 7am news for the weather for the day(Local channel) and after that I'm done.
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Front axle beam worn eye. R-model
Freightrain replied to Vladislav's topic in Driveline and Suspension
I'm using our 4'x8'(table size) Giddings and Lewis horizontal to drill the bolt pattern on my flywheel when I had to enlarge the holes. We have a 4x6 table version also. Here is the axle for my Cub Cadet lawn tractor. I rebushed the pivot pin and the two spindles with brass bushings. The axle was really worn out and I was able to buy the correct bushing right from McMaster Carr. I basically did just what I told you. Set it up with stops so I could keep the angles correct. I don't have any pictures of it on the mill, but I did use the 4x6 G/L. -
Looked at a truck yesterday
Freightrain replied to 1977vega's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Yes, look back by the rear spring hanger(front axle), behind that brake air line. Agree looks like B chassis. Early turbo motor. Look down by front of accy drive( lower pass side), below that fuel filter. Should have stampings across the top that says END673T or the like. -
Front axle beam worn eye. R-model
Freightrain replied to Vladislav's topic in Driveline and Suspension
If one side is fine, then they should be able to figure the correct angle to machine the other. A large horizontal mill would be my choice, a small Bridgeport would be difficult to manage. A large horizontal table, lay the axle on its side, align the spindle with the good side and build a back stop to put the spring pads against. Now flip it around and put the pads against the stops and you should have the correct angle to fix the bad side. Wish you were a few countries closer........, I have two large Mills at work that could do this kind of job. -
Front axle beam worn eye. R-model
Freightrain replied to Vladislav's topic in Driveline and Suspension
You would think the sleeve would go in from the bottom with a step to be able to hold position. With the axle out of the truck, taking it to a shop with a mill might be cheaper? I rebuilt the axle on my Cub cadet tractor at work on a horizontal mill. I bushed the spindles and center pivot. -
Mack CF Restoration
Freightrain replied to CaptainCrutch's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Remove air hose and give it a real short whiff, then crank it. If it coughs, then you need to trace lack of fuel. Remove line from lift pump and see if you get anything. -
Mack CF Restoration
Freightrain replied to CaptainCrutch's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Ok, need some clarification. Gas or Diesel? I am assuming diesel. The fact it won't even snort with starting fluid concerns me. A diesel will at least cough to some extent. A gas motor that does not respond to starting fluid has more in-depth issues. -
We have both tracks around here. Magnolia and Mount Vernon are the only 1/8 miles tracks, all the rest can run 1/4 mile. Since most of the local IHRA bracket points stuff is 1/8 mile, DW42 runs most of their programs 1/8 mile. I can remember about 13 odd yrs ago the locals all bitched about only running 1/8. Then like the next year, suddenly they all were raving about it. Fuel cost, maintenance, etc all were cheaper so they suddenly think 1/8 mile is where its at. I don't care, I just want to race.
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Mack CF Restoration
Freightrain replied to CaptainCrutch's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Crack an injection line and crank it. Does any fuel come it? Lift pump failure? Shut off stuck?? Use a compressor blow gun to lightly pressurize the fuel tank(very carefully), and see if you get fuel at injection pump?? Just a few thoughts -
Couple of winning rounds last weekend.... Some days you're the dog.........sometimes you're the hydrant..........
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I musta got real lucky, as I didn't have to cut or modify much of anything? Everything pretty much bolted right back in place. Didn't notice anything about the oil pan bolts? Might take a look now(not that I can do anything if I can't get to them). I guess it depends on which injection pump you have/had, as it of the linkage will bolt right up. Mine were identical and nothing needed changing to hook throttle pedal up. Yes, if you have a 67 size trans, you need to get the 72 sized to be able to survive. I couldn't say the model numbers earlier(I was at work and brain was fried). I only bastardized my flywheel because someone had bastardized my crank bolts on the 237. My 237 came with single disc clutch so everything I had fit fine(including my lower right starter). If your 237 came with dual disc clutch(and upper left starter), you need to fit and align your single disc bellhousing to allow the use of your original single clutch(and right side starter). I got some 4" exh tubing and made my own intake tubes. Pretty simple to fab up. Unless you can find some rubber elbows and stuff to make it work?
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Bolts right in a diesel truck. Not sure what will need changed in a gasser chassis? Mine was '69-ish vintage approximately. Just a guess. Mine had spin on filters already, I thought all 237's would have? Or not? Not that familiar. Had to refab the exhaust to fit, no biggie. Had to refab the intake pipe to fit turbo, no biggie. What duplex? Lightweight version?(gasser). I would not suggest using those little boxes with a 237. Find a big box or convert the truck to work with the std maxitorque 5 spd.
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Not too shabby Paul. Runs pretty well and pretty consistent for a "gasser". I had my last races this past weekend(one Fri, one Sat, one Sun). Went some rounds, though Sunday's race got rained out. Time to put it away for the winter....groan. I got a few nice time slips....008 and .009 lights. I was putting a hurt'n on those slushboxes!!! I'll get some pics and post them. One fellow came over to me after I took him out and said "I was told you were tough on the tree, so I knew I had to be on my game". He redlit against me.
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Like any racing career, pick a class you can excel in!!!! Nice job Bob!
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Sadly it will come a time when all that stuff is near worthless, unfortunately. Kids today don't want to wrench on a hot rod...they just want to put a tuner on it and go. Have an elderly friend that has a garage full of hot rods that he bought new(70 boss 302, 289 Comet, among others). His two kids are waiting to sell it off for cash because they don't want anything about it. His latest project, straight axle Comet he is running the wheels off because he knows it makes no sense in keeping it a garage queen no matter how much he spent on it. He's near 80 and has Parkinson's. He knows his driving time is limited. I told him after the first scratch(in the paint), it's all downhill from there!
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Buddy does the local swap meet in Randolph, Ohio. Same jist. Everything on the spot is like $2. He doesn't want to bring anything home. He's near 80 and doesn't want all that crap around anymore.
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The roads around here....that cab would not be tipped back for long....
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That's what the instructions say above. That is how my doors work.
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Recent purchase 1984 MH
Freightrain replied to Vladislav's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Great story Vlad. Glad to see you got to save another Mack. -
$149? That was too recent. Used to be $49, then $99 and "no ups, no extras"........LOL!! Yup, leave the windows down and get the interior done for FREE!!! Here's a real early commercial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkdtOOYdQOs There was one here in Canton. Friend who took body shop in HS worked there for a very short time.
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idle speed on a b model
Freightrain replied to davehummell's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Mine is a puck design(I thought it wasn't). Can get a touch of chatter if you try to ride it out on a steep hill. Overall a nice clutch. My 237 came with a single disc bellhousing(fire truck engine), so it was a no brainer to reuse my original clutch after upgrading it. -
idle speed on a b model
Freightrain replied to davehummell's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
DW clutch in Maryland. Super nice people. Really fast turn around. -
idle speed on a b model
Freightrain replied to davehummell's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
When I had the clutch rebuilt, I had them upgrade the disc material from the stock organic to a composite. Gives it a bit more bite. Has worked flawless. I don't lug it down below about 1500 rpm, just to save the old worn out triplex. I'd love to upgrade transmission........ someday. -
idle speed on a b model
Freightrain replied to davehummell's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
When I spoke to local shop about "maybe" looking at my 237 pump, they were talking $3000 range for a rebuild!!! Yowza!!!! I was going to have them recalibrate it to a thermodyne setting, but that was just a bit much. It runs fine. Glad to hear you got yours tuned up. -
Paul, I know most injected motors want a lean out valve for high gear as they are typically pretty fat on fuel. I ran Goodyear for years, then switched to M/T. I've run them for decades now. I was running 29.5"x9" for years and rotated them every few races. I then switched up to 29.5x10.5 and don't have to rotate them anymore. I get three seasons out them now(compared to one with 9"). Just for giggles I swapped the 10.5" around. Car suddenly started going left, HARD. Yup, once front tires left the pavement, it would try to mow down photographers at the staring line. I couldn't figure out what went wrong? I finally swapped them back and all was well. Guess 2 yrs is too long to wait to swap them side to side.
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