Freightrain

Don, I bought my "hill light" from Dcaptain. Nice guy to deal with. He was actually coming down my way, we met at local gas station and made the deal.

It's kinda funny how most ALL the news have hot women anchors. Remember when it was just guys like Walter Kronkite and Dan Rather? I guess if I turn the volume off, I could stand to watch the national news?

83 Mack Cruiseliner, 10 speed, 370 rears, 1300 miles since motor has been rebuilt, have all parts and liners to interior, 350 Cummins, 6000 or will trade for a good four wheel drive older model pick up 1983 mack Cruiseliner Ruther Glen, VA · over a week ago · $6,000

Not hateful looking or priced. Look at the flag R model next to it?? Here is listing for ones not on FB. Mack 300 motor, 13 speed Eaton transmission overdrive, Mack rears with Mack suspension, single steel frame, full screw on rears, 2 line wet line, manual steering, all glass good, tube type tires (need replaced), VIN # 786LST28575, Western brown interior, air ride drive seat low back, fixed passenger seat low back, sleeper cab over last ran in 2017. Needs TLC Less

My B61 were down. I contemplating flipping them up when I redid the doors this winter. But after assessing the situation, I left them down.

I spent plenty of time just looking under the hood to come up with everything to make sure it would work before buying the kit. I removed the fuel filter off the engine and re purposed the two bolts to hold the bracket. This is what they did on an R model engine. The biggest difference is the B model is such a short hood there is no extra room for another pulley behind the water pump pulley. You can't use the rear groove because of the accy drive on the diesel sticks out, so I used the front groove. It just clears everything. Here you can see the original two bolt bracket from the fuel filter. I cut the band section off and welded the plate to it. The lower tabs run gussets down to the accy drive to support everything. I then welded the original bands to another bracket and mounted the filter on the front frame rail, under the outer hood panel. I hung the evaporator under the dash using my own brackets to clear my CB radio. The condenser is hung under the bunk horizontally with a fan on it. It makes instant cold air this way. I ran a hot wire from the a/c power switch to the fan relay so it turns on as soon as I turn the system on. It's suppose to work off the trinary switch, but I want it running full time to keep the condenser as cool as possible since being where it is gets no real air flow, especially sitting still. I got the kit from Retro Air in Texas. They don't offer the same one anymore, but you can find it on Ebay also. I paid $600 for all. Comes with Sanden pump and all hoses. I needed longer hoses to reach behind the bunk, but I bought some from Retro air. It uses very good Parker a/c line. It's been running for 5? yrs now without issue. It's a 14K btu unit and will freeze you out even on a drafty old B model. It only needs to be set on low to be more then comfortable on a warm day in Ohio.

I did my 673, not sure what the front of a 707 looks like. I mimicked the bracket from an R model in a way. I run off the front pulley. I have other pictures if they will help you.

Really? On the boost side? Never really thought about that. Would that really work okay? I still run the little box filter on the side of the pump. I've contemplated changing it over to the air cleaner pipe. I have the plate to convert it, as it came on the 237. I just never plumbed it so I used my old 673 filter.

Welcome to the forums!

Air compressor inlet come from the air cleaner tubing? Pull that line and see if it is oily. You say the compressor is rebuilt and it didn't change anything? If it is not sucking oil on the inlet, then it has to be coming from the pump. When mine needed rebuilt, it only made oil milkshakes(water, oil, foam), not tar.

I remember 25 odd years back, my work(machine shop), the owner was going to mandate random testing. I said "Good". The only problem was we had a couple guys that said "Save your money". They were good machinist, had good skills and didn't miss work. We didn't have safety issues. It was short lived and never tried testing again. Granted they aren't driving 80K lbs trucks, but getting caught up in a big lathe isn't a good thing either. In my 33 years, we've only had one bad incident and that was just pure stupidity on the operator.

We have a sub station next to my work and high tension power lines running across the north side of lot, right where I park. You can hear them hum pretty loud some days. Had a bad day last year. Heard a very loud explosion and out went the lights. Oops. Never did hear what happened.

I only link pictures from an outside hosting site. I use Postimage.org. It's free and easy to use. Download them here, copy/paste file name here. I thought there was a limitation here for total pictures downloaded? Has that changed?

I bought a new piece of 5/16" keystock and cut a chunk off the door handle and welded a new piece on. The door handle now fits snug in the door latch mechanism and doesn't sag. Winning. I bought a house window handle(chrome finish) to install on the passenger door to make it easier for Karen to pull herself up. She always had to run the window down to give a place to grab. With the windows being so tough to work, a handle is easier. I think I will install one on the driver side just to give myself something better to slam the door with. It closes pretty firm and I don't want to beat up the door lock handle by pulling on it. A road test the other night proved it is a bit quieter inside, less rattles of the doors on rough roads. Winning.

Well it took a bit of effort to get some of the old bushings out. They had rusted together pretty bad. Once cleaned out and with new bolts it went together nice. The test drive the other night seems positive. I've got a road trip coming the end of the month, that will be the real test.

Tell them you would be making AOC's special "cow grain" that doesn't the cows fart. That would have all the wacko's on your side!!

Nice toy! Mine doesn't come with all the amenities........

Another "Call me when it's done".............. I'll be eat'n donuts with Jim. I can do certain heights in certain situations, but NO WHERE near those.

Those are residual check valves(I see they are 10 psi). Need any time you mount the master cylinder below the level of the brake cylinders. Keeps from sucking back the wheel cylinders as the fluid tries to run back to the master cylinder.

My guess is the cab guard helped keep the cab level as it come down on the cab.

I made legs for my 673. Bolted on.

If the bolts were loose, maybe remove each separately and clean/oil the threads? Dab of never seize? Keep them from corroding over time. Replace with stainless hardware? I've never had oil caps, but just thinking out loud.

Guess it was an 8 axle. Seemed like more.

My guess they dump air to turn? I think it was 11 axle?

Was in Toledo just last weekend and saw a Michigan fuel tanker centipede. Mentioned to my buddy about tire replacement costs!! I'm thinking they were all super singles also.