Freightrain

Keith, those wipes are for a '67-72 F100 pickup. They were like 4" too long, but had the radius corner that matched. I confirmed from my '69 F100 in the garage. I had to cut just a bit off the length of the corner as it was a touch too long there also. There was a fourth clip in that corner. The three remaining clips hold them in the door just fine. I just had to drill the holes for them. They used the original Ford part number: PART #:C7TZ-8121452-SS https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1969-ford-truck-restoration-parts-80954-prd1.htm All the parts had MADE IN USA on them. Likely with "global parts"? They were nice, no complaints on visual quality.

Yup, crank the glass to the bottom. It needs to be BELOW the top of the channel at the top of the door panel. Then, with some wiggling you should be able to persuade it out of the door. My drivers door panel falls out easily. My passenger door takes lots of very carefully said cuss words! I'll let you use the words I use....just can't type them on the forums LOL!!! Start with George Carlins 7 words you can't say on TV...that's a good start.... I see you are using tape on the door to help with not destroying the paint. I finally had to do this with my new doors. Ugh, the old doors were much easier to work on!!

I used OEM Mack glass I bought from Barry 17 yrs ago!! I was going to mention I might try to polish it down as it is just a slight bit wider then the glass I removed. Though the channels still had OEM felts in it, as I had to cut the rivets to removed what was left. I'm just hesitant due to not wanting to destroy the glass(ie: shatter it). Wingman, The wagon motor is a 428 service block, 427 cross bolt caps, 4.25 Scat forged stroker crank, Edelbrock heads(hand ported), Crower flat tappet cam. Made 625 hp at 6500, 600 ft/lb at 4000 rpm. Run has run 10.83 @ 123 mph. Typically runs 11.0's in the summer. My little '69 F100 has 428CJ motor, med riser 2x4, toploader, 4.56 gears. Some videos: I'm guessing you are posting from a tablet? They tend to rotate pictures when put on a forum. Don't ask why, it's just a common issue.

Well, it went well, sorta. The inner tube was just the right thickness to make the lower channel press on snug. I used weatherstrip adhesive and it seems to be holding. Only real problem is the channels are so tight the window is real snug moving. Way too snug for my liking. I used the old glass to support the lower channels as they set up, but the new Mack glass I bought 15 yrs ago is just a TOUCH wider and is a bit tight. Once it's all assembled and put in the door, it's way too tight once it gets into the vent window channel. Ugh. This is really not working as "seamless" as I thought. Don't know why I thought it would??

So the whole deal is something to protect the glass from touching the metal channel and it sticking together. So some rubber inner tube and some adhesive would function the same if I want to do it today and not wait. I will be looking at it later today and see what it's like.

Yup, I've used short nap rug before. Just labor intensive. I like power tools!! Lol.

I worked today and the passenger door is perfect just like before I painted the doors. I was able to install my 3/8 inch foam weatherstrip and the door closes perfectly. All I need to do now is glue the new glass into my channel. What does everybody use to glue the glass? The old windows had some kind of thin fabric and likely some glue. I was thinking of using some inner tube rubber and weatherstrip adhesive? I still haven't figured out what I'm going to do with the driver's door. I will feel better at least having the passenger door completed and the mirror put on.

If anyone noticed, Rob pulled the plug on many of his posts. I noticed yesterday on my NOS door post everything he posted is gone. His Binder post is gone. The last time he left the forums he erased everything.

Mine is not really an issue with the weather stripping, it closes farther without it. It is nice that it closes tight so it won't rattle but with the latch moving it down it's wedged against the cab and damaging the door.

Well, I got my door weatherstrip yesterday. I went out to play around and boy....did that turn into a mess. I got the stuff stuck in the slot, suddenly the door won't close right. I had to loose the latch a touch, no biggie. Then I noticed the bottom outer corner of the door was sticking out like 5/8"? WTH? It was fine before it was painted. Seems the door striker is pushing the door down, the lip of the door is getting caught on the cab and holding it out. Ugh. I tried to finesse the door lip, only to crack the paint. UGH. Why me? I slotted the striker plate holes and tried moving it up more. Helped, but not enough. Where did it all go wrong? It fit fine before it was painted.

Ya, used to mow a yard for a fellow with an ol Briggs that had wind up start. Wind it, twist the knob and away she'd go. The muffler was long gone, so it had a straight pipe sticking out the side.

Looking good! I need to get the polisher after mine(same material) as mine are well worn after like 15 yrs of being out in the weather. I keep them washed, but they don't shine like that!

Had Douglas M Mair? on the door. They didn't show much else to try to track it.

Jeff and his wind up Federal

Jeff getting a workout cranking that Federal?

Found this on youtube channel I subscribe to: The old supercharged Cummins has a nice bark to that jake. The beginning is the only good part. The rest, not so much. (I don't know why the R model is in the preview?)

Well I found a place on Ebay, then went to their website. Rubbertherightway.com. I ordered it Wed and it came from San Diego in 2 days to Ohio. Nice! Everything says made in USA. Looks likes, fits nice. What I did for the whiskers is ordered 1967-72 F100 and cut to fit. I compared my originals to what my '69 had and the F100 were longer(good thing). They come with snap clips already on them. I just had to drill 3 holes and snap them on the door and trim panel. Worked out really well. Everything mocked in place: I have the upper channel formed to fit, just need to mount the clips. Not sure if the old clips will work, so going to glue it also. I'm waiting til I get the new glass installed and panel mounted in the door before I try gluing it as I want to use the window rolled up to hold everything correctly. I also have the new channels glued into the door panels. I have the old glass holding things in tight. I need to remove the old glass, blast the lower channel/paint and glue the new glass in. I also put new channels in the vent windows. I'm waiting on the door seal material(coming this week), before finishing the doors up. I might have to pull them off quickly to get the seals installed. I have a big bag of stainless hardware to get the mirrors mounted up. But again, waiting til doors are finished before doing that. If I have to drop the doors off to get the seals installed I don't want to have to have the mirrors hanging on them.

They try to make it harder for dummies...............the only problem is they are making smarter dummies............

If you notice some of the scrapers have pull bars on them. They can daisy chain them together and they do the same as having dozers pushing them. Kinda interesting to watch them work. Jeff, from Jpaydirt did a video of how that works. He also put a "switchblade" turbo on his old Cat dozer and took most of the smoke away. It's a variable turbo, so it spools up quicker down low eliminating the cloud. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLKpauTxKxI

I caught onto a guy on Youtube called "Jpaydirt", he has a small dirt moving company. I enjoy his videos. He is either working on his equipment, rebuilding "Ol Kenny" his 1693 powered KW, or his Challenger, or you ride along while running the dozer or scraper.

Well, I have the material to make the bushings, been sitting on my desk for a couple weeks now. I also have the bushings. I was trying to keep from having to make them, so I did some googling and found some at Home Depot? 5/8" ID, 7/8" OD, 1 1/2" long. $10 for 5. Kinda spendy, but good enough(worth it to not have to make them). Just need some time after work to start machining the polyurethane.

Slow progress this weekend: Picked up some Dynamat today, so I got some put on the doors. That should keep them from being a "GONG" when closed. I started to reassemble the mirrors, but need to get to the store and get all new stainless hardware. That and I want to get some thin plastic to isolate the brackets from the paint on the doors. I'd like to have stainless brackets, but that's a bit out of the budget. Friend blasted and painted the originals since there were in pretty nice condition and not rotted to pieces.

Local fellow has a really nice Tridrive B dump. I don't recall what it has for suspension? In the slow truck race at the local show...I'm usually too far ahead to see....LOL!!!

I like my Triplex, even though I heard many stories of how it won't work well, blah, blah, blah. I like my ability to split the top gears. Pulls hills without issue, though I'm not 80K lbs. If I get my mits on a RTO or such, I'm going to work on getting it installed. Only because my Triplex is whipped hard and put away wet.

All I can think of is this little clip from Blazing Saddles. Pretty much sums up CB's today. No matter how nice you think you are,........ I still run CB's in my pickup and Mack. Granted, usually a waste of time, but when traveling they come in handy for information and highway problems. Well, usually. then again.............."UP YOURS!!!" In the late 70's, hanging with my buddy in the neighborhood we'd spend all night yak'n on his big base station, 850 watt linear and Moonraker 4 beams. We talked all across the world. Fun times.