Freightrain

Nice find!!! I've got a soft spot for older Binders. Friend ran a 4070B Eagle for his last truck. His was 400/13 spd also, but had 4.10's. I met a fellow at York National convention, parked next to me with a super nice, low mileage 4070B. He got it pretty cheap at an auction from a dealership? I forget the whole story now. It was spotless clean frame and inside too. Last name was Richardson?

Poly Urethane. Same as typical bushings, but in raw stock. I'll part it and turn the shoulders I need.

Well, my material showed up. Now to get some spare time to widdle it down to useable pieces.

My guess is cable operated shifters. With age I'm sure they get stiff and sloppy. I'm betting around town they hardy got into 2nd gear? Looks like the clutch is cable also, but I'm thinking I've seen many with air clutch. I'm guessing it took plenty of finesse to drive it smoothly. I grew up with early GMC buses, most being automatics. Similar to this design:

Front lights are only on with parking lights, they turn off with headlights. Turn signals on fender were typically blink only, not running. Though you can make them work how every you want.

My door seals(what's left) were just like 1/2" square foam strip stuck in the groove. No glue. I'll be shopping around. Thanks for all the input guys.

Paul, yes the drivers handle droops a touch. The passenger not so bad. I played/replaced with the springs years back, but needs attention again. Once I get the door parts off the panel I'll look at them again. If the springs you have are the correct ones, I'll use them. Not sure what I did back when? I'm going to poke around and see what I can find for window felts/etc. I called my buddy, going to drop the parts off this week and have him get started. Once Rob gets me the window stop plate I can have things painted. I seem to have lost the left over pint of paint I had from painting my heater box 17 yrs ago. I had a factory painted panel scanned and matched. I guess I'll give my buddy the heater cover and let him have it rescanned to match it. I'll check into the power window kit this week. I know Speedway Motors offered a handle switch that operates the window so you don't have the switch boxes mounted to the outside. It uses the regular window crank so it doesn't look like power windows. I like the idea. I think I will also look at welding a piece of tubing to the hinges to run the wires safely into the dash area so there are no exposed wires. Jim, ya I have a friend that can also just look from the outside of the stall. Lol! I feel fortunate enough to at least have it inside. Though it can be a PITA to work on. Another friend is building a 48x60 this spring so come next winter if I want to do something to it I can have elbow room!!

What did everyone use for felts and whiskers? Generic stuff? R model? Watts used to carry it but have not researched it yet. I literally tore into this yesterday afternoon on a whim.

I saw those kinds of kits but didn't think they would fit. Have a part number?

Lol!

Rob, yes.

Ed,. Ya, I drive my a lot and when it's cool the drafts coming in around doors can be annoying. Summer not so bad when the a/c is blowing ice at you! I don't mind slamming them if they fit tight. Robert, likely not change the glass configuration. Unlike many, I like my vent windows! Either allowing a good blast of air or diverting wind buffeting when window is down. I would like to convert to electric windows. It's a tight fit, I've mocked up a Ford window motor. Hard/impossible to get window assy in the door with that motor.

Lots of warehouses I see during my work I see photo eye controlled LED lamps. They turn on as you enter the area and then turn off after you leave. Pretty cool.

Well, after buying these like 17 yrs ago, I finally am going to put them on my truck. I was originally hoping to find a better cab and paint it all at once but that never transpired. So, I dug the doors out and starting to hang them. I got the drivers side fitting up and aligned pretty well. Latches nicely, though real fitment is not something you can do to the doors on these trucks. Unless I guess I want to really cut and paste things to make it all museum quality? Not likely. There is nothing straight or even about the doors or cab openings. All the keen eyed people will notice the lack of working room. Ya, you got to be a skinny ass to work around the truck in the stall. I can just squeak between the bunk and wall. Once I know both fit I'll be stripping the interior panel so I can give everything to a buddy for paint. I'll have him use the same white he used on the bunk and I have a small pint of the green I used on the heater box 17 yrs ago. It's a Volvo color if I recall? It's on the can, he can use it to get more. My original doors are pretty beat, rusty, cracked. I have new side glass, though my vent windows are still nice along with the vent rubbers. I just need to get new channel felt, window fuzzies and the door seal foams. In all, shouldn't be too hateful of a project to tackle. One thing: Does anyone have the window stop that fits in the small hole in the bottom of the door? I've been missing the one for my passenger door. Would like to have one to get painted with everything else. Let me know what you have.

Nice find! If you download too many pictures to BMT, you run out of space. It's best to use an offsite hosting service and link the pictures here. I use Postimage.org. It's free, unlike Photobucket that wanted to rape everyone a year ago.

Nice. Did the same with my truck. I mounted the 3/4" LED under the lip of the bunk, so they are invisible during the day, but light up and shine down on the road at night. I did similar under cab, I made small brackets and riveted them to the inside of the rocker so only the edge of the light hangs down and it glows on the tanks. I then put them up each side of the bunk in the back. I got the SS covers for them to kinda cover up the black rubber grommet. I got the clear lens also so not as noticeable during the day. You can get those 3/4" LED's cheap from Amazon. They keep offering bigger quantities for cheap. If I can't make the truck shiny, I might as well light it up at night?? You know the old Beach Boys song..."She's my no go show boat".........

Well, the energy suspension bushing kits were a bit too small in diameter. I found raw material and have some 2 3/4" round stock on the way.

Ya, solid cab, budd wheels. Not bad at all.

I think Bob is referring to just buying stuff at a local store, for anything, instead of buying over the internet. I'm in agreement, but it is getting harder and harder.

Ditto, I haven't taken the deck of the tractor yet to install the plow frame. I held off last year and never really needed it. So, here's to trying it again. I think we had one good snow, but it warmed up quick enough to not worry about plowing.

Yes, can't use it to shift very easily. Slow to respond.

I never lugged it but who's to say the 45 yrs before me? Mine had the small studs all the way around.

Never had a dynatard, can't say. It does work well for me. I've heard good and bad from others.

My 673 had popped a few bolts. I'm sure the real problem was guys working them a touch too hard and causing issues.

I've had thoughts of throwing a C note into this. Who knows? I've thrown more money at lesser things..... With all the horror stories of those old V8, not sure I'd trust it to go very far on its own?? There was that orange V8 F model for sale locally about 12 yrs ago. I looked at it, really crusty, but ran. The new owner got it home, unloaded it, and it blew up. Ugh. I just looked on their facebook site and found the pictures of the orange truck. It seems that is the old green V8 truck that has been for sale on here numerous times in the last few years.