Freightrain

I forget where I found the information for when I put mine in. Seems they wanted the driveline angles on the center driveshaft to be equal to cancel out. My motor was like 4* down, so I did the same with aux. Since I stretched the truck 5ft, it didn't hurt the rear driveshaft so much. I'd have to go measure, I think I kept the basic centerline the same height in the frame. It runs smooth, so I guessed correct. I know on lifted trucks, they rotate the rear axle upward to help eliminate u joint angle. I wonder if you could do the same?

What trans?

If you want to get the fuel smell off you.....just dip your hands in old gear lube!!! That stuff stays with you for weeks!!! Lol! I should still have enough fuel in tank to dip some and see if it sticks around. I ran it down pretty low the last trip because I knew it was going to sit for six months in the garage. I can't think it will be any better then new gas. You can't keep that from evaporating before you fill the mower!

The Power Service I use is like $10 for the quart(good for 100 gal) at Autozone. I use it about every other fill up or so. Not a real budget breaker in my opinion. I typically spend $100-150 to fill up depending on where I went, so another $10 every other time isn't bad.

KENTON, Ohio (CNN) -- A runaway freight train that barreled through 66 miles of northwestern Ohio with no one aboard was halted safely Tuesday by a railroad worker who jumped onto the moving train and pulled its brake. The 47-car CSX train was slowed down by another engine in a coupling maneuver.May 16, 2001 The movie made it much more dramatic, of course.

Go knock on Yardo's door!!

Wow...is that cop used to pulling 53ftr's with that Taurus? LOL!!

Thanks Terry. The movie pretty much put it all in PA. Artist license I suppose when it came to scripting it. I didn't recall the actual event details, though now that you mention it I do recall a story in Ohio a few years back.

Watch the movie Unstoppable. It was made from a true story about a runaway in Pennsylvania. They make a comment at the end about that engineer working for a fast food restaurant. A favorite scene from a movie is Silver Streak, the train is coming into town and the engineer gets thrown from the train by the bad guys and the cops ask "Who's driving the train?" and they show a toolbox on the dead man pedal. Of course the train crashes through Grand Central Station after the bad guys get shot and no one left to remove the toolbox.

If you check, typical European regulations say the car has to have amber rear turn signals. Thus many of the newer cars have them(so they are compliant), but like mentioned, you can't see them due to the insane brightness of the LED tail lights surrounding them. I find myself pulling up to a stoplight and having to shield my eyes behind many of the newer cars. The brake lights will burn your retina! They think this is safer? Likely, but when idiots aren't looking up from their phone, they still aren't going to see them!! Yes, most chevy's and likely Mopars have LED daytime running lights that are so bright they have to turn them off so you can see the turn signal. WTF? When will it ever end? I grew up with a love to drive. Couldn't wait to get my license. Today I literally don't care if I get into the drivers seat anymore.

You can download the pics directly to your BMT post. The storage amount is limited, so you can't do hunderds of pics, but for a simple for sale ad you can just pick "Choose files"(lower left hand corner of the posting box) and it will put it on the post automatically.

Using an extension on a torque wrench is a no no! For the back yard kinda person, if it has to be, so be it. But working on something much more critical it is not suppose to be used. It adds twist and most likely a much lower torque reading. For instance, my buddy is known for over doing stuff(does not have a light touch), so he torques the wheels on his race car. With a real deep rim, you HAVE to use an extension. At 100#, it is close enough. If you have to go 200-300# I'm sure the amount of error is exponential.

Proper torque has to done with a very smooth, even motion to completion. Any variation can lead to changes of final torque. Luckily most things aren't that sensitive to it. Most of my racing engines, the rods are measured for stretch using a dial indicator. Measure the bolt at rest, then pull it til it stretches like .006. That usually equates to about 60 ft/lb. But sometimes, due to metallurgy of the bolt it might take 65-70 to get it to actually pull the .006. The torque isn't as critical, but gets you in the ballpark for stretch. If you are short, just give it a slight pull and recheck the stretch.

I'm sure the ONLY reason for TTY bolts is cost in manufacturing. Or at least repeat ability/accuracy on the assy line at lower cost? Something along those lines. Nothing to do with being "Better", just cheaper. The OEM doesn't build it for ease of repair. They just want to sell you another one. I watched International build the 7.3 PSD at the plant in Indianapolis back in like 2002ish. Very cool to see the whole shortblock assembled by a robot. Pistons, rods, crank, all put in and torqued by robot.

Many fasteners list the proper lube to use to get the required torque. Either dry, oil, or moly, they all give a different friction which changes the actual torque on the bolt. I think the angular way eliminates that. Most of the TTY bolts I've seen, have thin shanks on them. Unlike a common fastener you just tighten. Once that shank is stretched, it is junk. I don't think you can just pull it tight and be accurate. Maybe you can? Not sure I would trust it for something critical(like main or rod cap) where lots of bad things happen when they fail. A headbolt isn't so tragic, but still costly.

Lucky I haven't gained one of those!! A friend wanted to drive my truck, he got behind the wheel, or actually kinda "under" it and there was no way he was going to be able to turn the wheel with it wedged so tight against his front porch LOL!!!

Lots of new stuff is torque to yield. Yup, you have to replace the fastener since it was stretched past it's point of return. You use something like this to get your angle correct:

Not bad, but agree it would be good to haul to a show, but not sure I'd want to drive one very far. I'm just barely comfortable in my regular cab.

Haven't noticed brake lights on, this is typically just after releasing parking brake only. Not from using service brakes. Service works fine. I usually give the service brakes a quick hit and that usually unlocks the brake. Like I mentioned, this is something that just popped up suddenly. I can't get to the brake shoes due to dust covers in the way. Even if I could get the covers off, the Neway trailing arms are in the way big time and not sure I could even get myself or a tool in there enough to do anything. Thus I have to get truck out of the garage and remove axles and pull hubs to see what is going on. This was before changing the hub over to spokes: My garage space is too tight to allow getting the axles in while the truck is in the stall. Luckily I pulled the axle before I put the frame section on the truck. Once I had it on the ground with spokes on it, I rolled the truck out of the garage and slipped the axles in it.

Remember this has a 1991 Ford frame in the back with Rockwell rear. I had it apart when I converted it back to spokes from Budds. It's been flawless, til now. Something needs attention, but it sucks it's winter and I have to work on it outside. Ugh.

When I release the parking brakes, sometimes I've had to pump the brake pedal to get them to release and let the truck roll. Just started it the last trip I made a few weeks back. I think it's the right rear. I release the brakes and try to adjust the slacks and the RR seems to be still tight. Once you pop it, then you can adjust it. Don't think the S cam is sticking in the bushing as it moves easily. Hope it is just a brake shoe/roller/spring/etc. Don't think it is the can? Don't see how that could be, but haven't pulled the pin out. Need to have a buddy stop over so I can crawl under and watch what is going on when the brakes release. Hard to be at two places at once? I try sometimes. Only bad thing, I have to have the truck OUTSIDE to get the axle out to get the drum off....UGH. Weather has already taken a turn for the worse so not sure when I'll get to it. Don't need the truck til next April, so it's not a big deal(yet).

Welcome to the forums. I wonder if you could just bolt on a filter/oil cooler from a 237? The cooler connects differently to the top of the filter housing on a 237 so I doubt you could blend them together. Not sure about the front side of cooler and water pump though. Would need to see yours to compare. Being yours is a turbo motor, it should have the same mounting plate layout. Something to consider. The cooler on a 237 plugs directly into the filter housing using o-rings. I don't have a better picture of just the side. The front of the cooler bolts into the waterpump housing.

Did some research and found the flickr account with more pictures. https://www.flickr.com/photos/150627670@N03/ Wonder where it is now?

Welcome to the forums. I use typical LSF at the pump on my truck. I do dump in some Power Service Diesel Kleen every few fill ups to give it some added nutrients. Haven't had any issues in the last 15 yrs.

Pictures of leaky valve will help determine what it is. If you are getting lots of oil then compressor needs rebuilt/replaced. Typically it is governor that is bad if it won't build presure and needs replaced. They are cheap and easy.