Freightrain

You can put a 12v starter in the truck and get rid of the s/p switches. You'll just need a std Ford starter solenoid to engage the new starter. I put it in place of my s/p switch, so the starter button worked without moving wires. Just run two LARGE(like 4/0) cables from batteries to the starter for both POS and NEG connections. I'm pretty sure the starter is NOT polarity sensitive. It only turns one way no matter the connection. Two 12v batteries should be more then enough for typical starting. 3 wouldn't hurt, 4 is way overkill. I ran 4 batteries for years, til they got old and needed replaced. Then I just put 2 in it and have never had an issue.

Likely the brushes are stuck, beside the bushings. Just went through this with a very similar sized 12v motor on the electric lift on my 70's Cub Cadet. Was able to dismantle motor, lube it up, clean the brushes and it now runs. Remove the two screws on the end and likely the motor will slip off the gear box. Fiddle with it, since it doesn't work you can't hurt it. You might get lucky.

Well, I would not keep it plugged in all winter for no reason. Just plug it in a few hours before you want to move it(depending on temp, longer). Hold it to the floor, crank for 15-20 seconds. Depending on if it wants to start, release starter, let cool for a moment, try again. My old 673 would start at 19* temp with NO ether. But it had 4 batteries and would spin it fast without trying. Keep your batteries inside, only put them in truck if you need to start it. Keep them charged up. If the motor is not plum wore out, it should start pretty easy at normal winter temps. Sub zero? Might take some persuasion. I've never had my current 237 out in the cold to try starting it. It sits in garage all winter, keeps about 45*.

Found this place, they might have some information for you about parts: https://elightbars.org/forums/threads/dietz-7-11-dietz-2-11-lights.12762/ I'm curious as if there are any part numbers on the motor itself. Might be something you could google up and find it is a common 12v dc motor? I bought a Federal Hill Light from this fellow, who is kinda local to me: http://dcaptain.com/beaconraylights.html

Ya, they have it. Just not the right fitting for my compressor. I need to make a block so I can put an AN fitting on it to fit the new style hose. Looks like I need to maker work for the weekend and tear into it Monday.

Nice start. Welcome to the forums.

Will it bend around stuff? I need the ol zig zag to clear the exhaust. Typical DOT plastic will not bend very sharp. The majority of the truck(mostly the back) is all plastic, along with anything I added up front beyond original plumbing.

What are you guys doing for replacing the old copper line on a B model? Went to move truck and heard a hiss noise after shutting it down. Found a pin hole in the feed line off the compressor, in the Z bend right off the head. Seems my flexpipe off the turbo must have sunk a touch and rubbed a tiny hole in the line. I desperately need the truck this weekend. I soldered the hole shut for now, will likely wrap with a piece of hose and hose clamp it for extra protection. I know most newer trucks use a stainless flex line and hope to leave work after lunch and do some checking around town and see what I can find.

I don't recall seeing many growing up? I went to grade school next to the highway and living a few blocks away I could hear trucks pulling the grade all night with the windows open. The most memorable one was when I went to Syracuse National convention(2003). An orange one showed up pulling a couple coils.....basically in it's work clothes.

Rick over on JOT has this little jewel:

Depending on what you want, new, used, used up? I got tired of dealing with my old tanks and spent the money on a new set of alum tanks from Alumitank. About 700/ea. Nice, really nice. Exact replica of the 40 gal tank.

Looks familiar.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzxNeh8WdgQ

Nice pull! I missed the Portage county fair last weekend. We usually go to see the semi's on Sat, but had a race to attend. With my poor showing, I'd been better off to see the pulls!!! LOL! We did get to the demo derby on Wed. Stark County is this weekend, not sure what weather will be like? The hard part at Portage is the 3 hours of everything else til they get to the big trucks. Not that all the other classes are bad, but I like trucks. Our backs and butts are plenty sore by 11pm when the trucks come out.

With my racing outcome....I'd been better off coming to the show!!! LOL!! Glad to hear you had a great turn out. I saw a few pics on FB the other day.

Sneakers on a jobsite? Ya, I'm thinking she isn't going to be one of the people doing much. Likely a city inspector? Does Randy know her??

Doesn't look much different then this............ Besides a shiny grille............ Somehow I don't notice any "retro" styling?

I'm not worried about having it saved for weeks, 48 hours is long enough before it overwrites. I'm not gone for long periods of time. I don't care if it runs constantly, heck my motion lights kick on for every damn moth flying by! I think about 6 cameras would do me well. The hard part is my garage is not attached and getting the cable pulled to it(through the existing conduit) would be a bitch, especially if more then for one camera. There is only like a 1 1/2" pipe going and there is 100amp service already in it, so not much room for a bunch of cables. Not that I wear a foil hat, but I don't really care for the internet style systems. Seems that ANYONE could hack into it, I'd rather have something more permanent at the house. I'd like to use my phone to see it, but I guess I'm still hesitant of hackers.

Good post. I've contemplated putting up cameras of some nature. Haven't pulled the trigger, yet. I have heard enough about "clarity" to actually be of any use. Cheap stuff won't get it. Not ready to spend thousands. Neighbor is an ATT security rep. Not sure if they do cameras or motion/doors/fire?

Looks bad, but I'm confused. What machine is it?

From my limited experience, there is a ball in the flywheel that indexes it to the crank flange detent. If that ball was not used, it can be bolted on incorrectly and timing mark will be wrong. I only know this from when I put the 237 in my truck. I saw the bolt pattern was symmetrical and wondered how you would know how to put it on. That is when I saw the ball/detent and realized that is how. But can see how it could be left out and just bolted on any way you wanted. Thus causing problems when you timed it.

Ya, I've seen the ad on FB before. I drooled over them as a replacement for my busted up Bentz bunk. BUT pricing was not even in my ballpark and I was able to fix up my old bunk and put it back on. Oh well.

Nice!!!

Yup, saw the "vegan" description and knew it was not going to end well. Guess all that "Fake' news wasn't all Fake? You just have to be smart enough to know which is which.

It was just a linear actuator moving it, so you could fabricate something likely on any other model if it had enough structure to support it. I've used these folks before on a project. Quick shipping and priced reasonable. https://www.progressiveautomations.com/