Freightrain

Definitely see if it is the shifter or linkage that is frozen and not the box. Pull the pin on the clevis and see if handle moves.

The heater fan switch has a resister built in and that is how the switch functions. Off, hi, lo.

Yup, $15 is what I paid a few years back. Glad to hear you are making headway. What chambers does your truck have? 30/30? New ones are cheap and easy........ and no worries of that spring inside!!

Air start! Yes. Lol. You don't have all the starter wiring to deal with(multiple batteries). I still left both my 12v batteries even though I put air start on last winter.

Just had to replace the one wire alt on my truck after 15 yrs(it was starting to not charge all the time). Kinda pricey, but is 160 amp version. More power then I need for a all mechanical truck. I'm thinking like $200? Have to dig up receipt to confirm. I got it at local starter shop. You can re use the stock generator bracket, just had to make spacers to locate the alternator between the original tabs on the mount. Long bolts or some all thread and nuts. It lined up perfectly with crank pulley. Had to revamp the slide bracket for adjustment as it was not correct to match up with alternator slot. Not a big deal. Then just one good, like #6 wire, run back to the batteries(bigger the better) and one good ground from alt to frame. I replaced my AMP meter with volt meter. You will need to change your battery connections to NEGATIVE ground. The starter will still work fine(the series/parallel switch should be fine too since you are just changing polarity). If you keep the AMP meter, you will need to pull dash and swap the wires around since it will read backwards with the change of polarity. I put a 12v starter in mine the same time I swap to alternator. My s/p switch was giving me fits and I was tired of messing with it. I don't recall swapping wires on gas gauge or heater motor. The heater motor should be shaded pole, meaning it only runs one way no matter what direction you put power to it. I could be wrong. I was once before......

One of my favorite videos.

Likely much cheaper/easier to just buy a new governor. Does it look like this one? Mine started failing and a new one was cheap. I know there are a few variations, but might look at using this one?

Should just be a pipe tap fitting, like 1/4"? Might be kinda stuck after all these years. Don't know what the factory put on the threads?

That chart looks to make everything .002-.005 press fit for the shank of bolt. I suppose if the shank is about the same size UNDER then it would slide in. If not, it would take a really big hammer to seat them? When I did my air ride stretch, I used Gr 8 5/8" flange bolts, self locking flange nuts and reamed the holes to 5/8". Put them down with my 3/4" impact.

Or what is left of a 318?

Interesting. I agree, the clutch linkage on a B is simple enough, reliable and not heavy at all. Why would they want to put an air cylinder on it? I just assumed maybe for an Aussie RH drive or something with a real weird engine/trans combination. I know it is more common on early COE.

Wonder why a B model would have air clutch? Something unique about the truck? Right hand drive?

I did some testing of the unit after taking it off the truck. Everything is fine, resistance circuits are fine and ramps up okay. One thing I did notice was my airline was small and wondered if it was not applying well enough. I changed the fittings to 1\4" plastic instead of 1\8". I aired the truck up and it seems to snap up harder\quicker with more air volume. This won't help with overall power but just better actuation. I confirmed my trailer circuit. Has 1 ohm resistance. That equates out to 12-13 amps total draw. 12 v times 1 ohm equals 12 amps. I want to change out either just the magnets or the whole backing plate/brakes. It has been 21 yrs. Going to check online for some pricing.

I recall many "older" trucks getting square lights but I thought it was for an "updated look". My old round sealed beams due fine but I need my Perlux driving lights too. They don't blind oncoming traffic with the shutters on them. The new headlights drive me to stay home after dark. Just can't deal with being blinded.

No more loose nut behind the wheel! The Pony Express has it coming your way.

Ok I have a nut and lock washer from my spare box. It is 1 1/8"-16. I forgot my pitch gages at work but using calipers it appears to be .062/ turn. Nut uses 1 13/16" wrench. If you can't come up with a nut locally I will throw this in the mail next week.

Never been an issue with brakes. I know the release valve works at only 60 psi, but at that point you don't have full pressure releasing the brakes and likely not pulling them hard enough to bottom them out. I can move my truck with only 60 psi, but you can feel the drag til it gets up full pressure. It's not an issue with the compressor cycle pressures, but at only 60 psi it is not fully released. My compressor in the garage might fill the tanks but won't be over 100 psi due to my 60 gal tank on compressor and getting it to cycle enough to fully fill the truck to 120 psi.

^^DItto, the rod length should already be set by the person that installed everything. Get online and there are layouts of what is proper. As for adjusting. I air the truck up, block the wheels, release the brakes. Then I snug the adjustment with wrench. Then back off 1/4 turn and release the lock. Make sure you pay attention to what direction is TIGHTEN. You can accidentally back them fully off instead of on. I've tried just using shop air to release the brakes but have found that you don't always get the full 120# of air and that will not release then as fully. I've had to readjust them slightly after starting truck and building air pressure. I just threw a note in my pocket so I remember tonight to check the steering box. I wasn't home last night to do.

I have three variations. The last, a slack adjuster puller did the trick. It is really stout, fit well and with a touch of heat, a smack and the arm fell off like it didn't even fit to begin with. Ugh. I had to pull it when I converted to air steering since things were just different enough I couldn't mix/match parts.

I have an extra steering box. I'll look and see if it has a nut. If not, I will confirm thread size/pitch. After what it took to get the arm off my box a few years ago.........for the life of me I can't figure out how it would fall off?? LOL!!!

That's like 45 mins south of me.

My race trailer is 15K lbs. I think the brakes lacking was the real issue why I had my little incident going to York. Thus I have been slowly working towards eliminating the problem. Just last fall, coming home one night, damp roads. If I hadn't pulled hard on the hand control previously to the light changing I would have drove through a pickup and a city bus!!! The truck just hopped and skipped as the rear tires locked up. If the trailer wasn't doing something ahead of time I would have never stopped in time(though just over the white line). I was concerned with the light on the other side of a grade, and sure enough as soon as I topped the hill, it changed. I was already on the trailer brakes, knowing it could get ugly. It almost did and if I relied on the air actuation...it would have been way too late.

My straight pipes are 4". It sounds nice, but can't say what it sounds like passing on the road.

Well, stopped at Cross Truck yesterday and they had ONE nut left. Seems the nut is NOT included with the valves these days. Yup, just a way to get ANOTHER $4 out of you along with the $45 for the valve. Geesh. I got it put in last night and works well. That is after I got it hooked up correctly. Seems I have the IN and OUT backwards and it had a bit of a "leak" when I aired the truck up. LOL! Had to pull it and swap fittings around. Strangely enough it seems to hold air better now then it did for years. I think the old Berg valve was leaking air by and you couldn't really tell. I forgot to look at it before starting the truck today, but pretty sure it had some air pressure and it typically would have NOTHING left over night. Life is good? This valve is a bit smoother in actuation then the old valve also.

Yes, I can attest to those T bar seats being HEAVY!! Ugh, had mine in/out a few times over the years and what a back breaker to do yourself.