Freightrain

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOS99269 "N" Nominal Dimension 2.750 in. / 70.00 mm Brand Name NAPA Oil Seals / SKF (CR) Fits Shaft Diameter 2.750 in. To 2.756 in. / 69.85 mm To 70.01 mm Flange Diameter 3.125 in. / 79.38 mm Installation Dimension 1.250 in. / 33.32 mm Seal Surface Width 1.125 in. / 28.58 mm Speedi-Sleeve I.D. 2.75 in. Speedi-Sleeve Width 1.25 in. UNSPSC 31171509

Funny you mentioned this. Just last night, buddy who works at Canton KW showed me a picture on his phone. They are required to do this for all repairs. It was a picture of a fuse panel with a bunch of relays missing. Seems the Mexican KW's are showing up with lots of random parts missing from them. Make me wonder if someone stole the stuff while in transit? I asked if that was optional power stuff, but apparently it wasn't.

LOL!!! Ya, that's it!!! Well, maybe she was after my famous homemade choc chip cookies?? Hmmmm.

I got to meet Stormy, after Dan Thomas introduced me to her while we were chatting one morning. Dan told her to take a look at my truck. She came down and took pics and wrote down my life story. I wasn't holding my breath for any print, but was curious if I'd make one of the little pics. I didn't. Oh well. It was a good time, even with the rain each day. For driving in the rain and doing a down/dirty wash off the old bucket looks pretty good? I had to laugh after I registered, they misprinted my trailer name. It's a "Haulmark", not Haulwork. Not like it makes any difference, but had to chuckle.

Somebody was flat out not watching traffic. He didn't hit his brakes til 2 ft from the stopped traffic. If you look closely at about the :33 mark you can see traffic cut into the left lane up ahead. That is fair warning that something is coming up. Sad.

(4) 6volts are common, the fact it was 12v start is what is surprising to me. I'm not up on fire equipment, so maybe this was common to it? The two parallel switches were needed to make 12v from two sets of 6v batteries. Unlike a series/parallel switch for 24v start.

The series/parallel switch was for 24v starter. It surely seems odd your truck had (4) 6v batteries but was 12v start? The series/parallel switch swapped battery leads around for 24v start(4-6v in series), and 12v run(2-6v in series, but then each pair in parallel=12v run/charge). If you do a little reading on here you will see that was the popular way to get diesels started up through even the 80's. I don't know exactly when Mack discontinued it(or other manufacturers either)? Typical diagram:

That is just local to me. Starts today. I won't be there, just didn't get the time to take off.

It's all vinyl wraps. They can print anything. I saw a new mustang at Columbus swap meet last spring that was primer grey wrapped. Why? because they can? Remember back, maybe 10 yrs or more. Just when the "rat rod" thing was just starting to show up in Hot Rod magazine. There was a guy that painted a new plastic 41 Willys in "rust patina". Had holes in it and looks so realistic. There was a big argument about it and the whole car world was up in arms for awhile. Much more talent to paint it on then have it wrapped in plastic. Sad part, all these new cars with the rusty wraps? Give them 5 yrs and they can look like that without paying $5K!! Ever see a new Chevy or Dodge pickup and the rear wheel wells are rotted through? Wow.

Dustless blasting, same thing I did with my rims/hubs on my truck this spring. Still some glass residue in the gravel in the driveway, but worked well.

Who's gunno hook up the air lines and electric cord? Then fix it when it's screwed up and won't release the brakes and the lights don't work? Hmmmm.

Great story.

You can put a 12v starter in the truck and get rid of the s/p switches. You'll just need a std Ford starter solenoid to engage the new starter. I put it in place of my s/p switch, so the starter button worked without moving wires. Just run two LARGE(like 4/0) cables from batteries to the starter for both POS and NEG connections. I'm pretty sure the starter is NOT polarity sensitive. It only turns one way no matter the connection. Two 12v batteries should be more then enough for typical starting. 3 wouldn't hurt, 4 is way overkill. I ran 4 batteries for years, til they got old and needed replaced. Then I just put 2 in it and have never had an issue.

Likely the brushes are stuck, beside the bushings. Just went through this with a very similar sized 12v motor on the electric lift on my 70's Cub Cadet. Was able to dismantle motor, lube it up, clean the brushes and it now runs. Remove the two screws on the end and likely the motor will slip off the gear box. Fiddle with it, since it doesn't work you can't hurt it. You might get lucky.

Well, I would not keep it plugged in all winter for no reason. Just plug it in a few hours before you want to move it(depending on temp, longer). Hold it to the floor, crank for 15-20 seconds. Depending on if it wants to start, release starter, let cool for a moment, try again. My old 673 would start at 19* temp with NO ether. But it had 4 batteries and would spin it fast without trying. Keep your batteries inside, only put them in truck if you need to start it. Keep them charged up. If the motor is not plum wore out, it should start pretty easy at normal winter temps. Sub zero? Might take some persuasion. I've never had my current 237 out in the cold to try starting it. It sits in garage all winter, keeps about 45*.

Found this place, they might have some information for you about parts: https://elightbars.org/forums/threads/dietz-7-11-dietz-2-11-lights.12762/ I'm curious as if there are any part numbers on the motor itself. Might be something you could google up and find it is a common 12v dc motor? I bought a Federal Hill Light from this fellow, who is kinda local to me: http://dcaptain.com/beaconraylights.html

Ya, they have it. Just not the right fitting for my compressor. I need to make a block so I can put an AN fitting on it to fit the new style hose. Looks like I need to maker work for the weekend and tear into it Monday.

Nice start. Welcome to the forums.

Will it bend around stuff? I need the ol zig zag to clear the exhaust. Typical DOT plastic will not bend very sharp. The majority of the truck(mostly the back) is all plastic, along with anything I added up front beyond original plumbing.

What are you guys doing for replacing the old copper line on a B model? Went to move truck and heard a hiss noise after shutting it down. Found a pin hole in the feed line off the compressor, in the Z bend right off the head. Seems my flexpipe off the turbo must have sunk a touch and rubbed a tiny hole in the line. I desperately need the truck this weekend. I soldered the hole shut for now, will likely wrap with a piece of hose and hose clamp it for extra protection. I know most newer trucks use a stainless flex line and hope to leave work after lunch and do some checking around town and see what I can find.

I don't recall seeing many growing up? I went to grade school next to the highway and living a few blocks away I could hear trucks pulling the grade all night with the windows open. The most memorable one was when I went to Syracuse National convention(2003). An orange one showed up pulling a couple coils.....basically in it's work clothes.

Rick over on JOT has this little jewel:

Depending on what you want, new, used, used up? I got tired of dealing with my old tanks and spent the money on a new set of alum tanks from Alumitank. About 700/ea. Nice, really nice. Exact replica of the 40 gal tank.

Looks familiar.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzxNeh8WdgQ