Freightrain

Pretty sure my Triplex is 2" input. DW clutch sent me a dummy shaft to align when I put new clutch in.

Just make sure the HI split is in neutral position before trying to move the other rail. I'm sure the detents would lock the LO split side from moving if the HI split side is not in neutral. Sure is one dusty, dry transmission. Mine looks like it has soaked in a sludge pit with all the fluids that seep from it LOL!! I clean mine off occasionally, but after a summer of driving it is coated with crap. It's just done plum wore out.

Depends on your brand of Ether?

Well...........if you work the Farm girl just right.....she might woosh and chug like that too? Maybe, just say'n.

Finding a transmission with the sidemount like a Mack was what I thought was the hard part. I'd love to find something newer to put in my truck, but don't really have the room in my garage to pull the transmission and then do the fab work to get it back together. Throw in the push clutch and it really gets complicated...so I'm told.

Being in the plastic and rubber industry forever I see stuff come in the door with these "things" in the box. Took a few years to realize what they were. We get stuff still stuck together or at least covered in material. Many times we see samples of short shots or the such...like these chamber diaphrams.

Ya, Farm girl. I've had her videos come across my feed in Youtube. She is quite the looker and not afraid to show some skin. I'm not into the fake boobs, but I would let her eat crackers in bed LOL!!

Yup, once I started chiseling the gunk out of the bottom of mine, it had a hole. I was able to get another canister for mine from the original owner. He had another wrecker chassis with a motor and a good canister. I also put a spin on/separator next to the drivers tank. I change that randomly and it surely saves the wear/tear of the old style hanging on the motor. If you can't find a new can, just put a spin on unit.

Ya, you will really have a tough time slowing your shifting down to match that 5spd compared to any regular synchro'd transmission. Remember you have to be going FAST enough to get it to drop into the next gear. You can't just shift up through the gears idling along. Run'r up to 2100, let it drop down to 1200 or so and then just lightly pull/push it into the next gear. It will fall in without a lick if you do it right. You can't rush it. Once you find the rhythm it will become second nature.

Or 711 ci. If you can't find the marking on the front of the accy drive, then count head bolts and size(check the corners). They changed size/number later on. New parts are getting to be hens teeth.

The alt on the Mack is not an Azone unit. It is a truck unit from local shop. Yes, the other ones were from Azone. I know they don't have "quality" stuff, but I can't say it has caused me any real grief. Having Azone stuff on the wagon is good, cause I can get parts anyplace I go. I have friends that buy the high end special stuff(starters/alt) and if they have issues at the track,,,,they are screwed. When I plumbed the air intake on the new motor I used 4" steel exhaust tubing from Summit Racing. I didn't have alum welding capabilities back then. I do now. Try Summit racing. They list alum tubing, straights, turns. Summitracing.com Link to what I found: https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/vibrant-performance-aluminum-tubing?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=aluminum tub&sw=Vibrant Performance Aluminum Tubing I ordered silicone couplers from a place online. They have anything you could need. http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/hps-silicone-coupler-coupling-hose.html

I limped it along for a few summers. It always got me there/back so I wasn't too concerned. Not like it needs power to run once its started. With two batteries, my lights would survive a few hours without it which covers most of my trips. I am glad I finally changed it though. Had issues with my '69 F100 years back. It too would not really keep up if the electric fan kicked on(motor cooling). Thought it was strange and finally pulled the alt and took it back to Azone. They confirmed the regulator was bad(likely one side of diode pack toasted). I apparently had gotten the "gold" one and it was lifetime warranty. They handed me a new one and wow...it charges like crazy even with the fans on. Unlike the wagon, unloaded it in Pittsburgh last fall and made it to the staging lanes and suddenly no charging. Ugh. Had to get a ride back over to Turnpike to get to an Azone and replace it. Using the Mack was going to be a real PITA due to pit parking was packed and no real place to go once I got in.

Congrats. More pics?

I just replaced mine because it took forever for it to kick on. I'd have to drive it for 5-10 minutes before it would suddenly start to charge. When I took it to have it checked, the guy came back and said "Yup, it's got problems. It needs to see 3500 rpm to charge". Ya, that's a problem(with a motor that on goes to 2100 rpm). New one kicks off instantly and hopefully keep up with the load. That was the other issue, with all the lights on, it would hardly keep 12v. With air start it is not really a problem, but still not good.

Mine was no where near as bad as that but it was a bit sludgy. I only realized it was bad when I got on the highway and truck started slowing down(lack of fuel). Pulled it apart and it was ugly. Of course then I realized the housing was rusted through and had to replace it also.

Definitely see if it is the shifter or linkage that is frozen and not the box. Pull the pin on the clevis and see if handle moves.

The heater fan switch has a resister built in and that is how the switch functions. Off, hi, lo.

Yup, $15 is what I paid a few years back. Glad to hear you are making headway. What chambers does your truck have? 30/30? New ones are cheap and easy........ and no worries of that spring inside!!

Air start! Yes. Lol. You don't have all the starter wiring to deal with(multiple batteries). I still left both my 12v batteries even though I put air start on last winter.

Just had to replace the one wire alt on my truck after 15 yrs(it was starting to not charge all the time). Kinda pricey, but is 160 amp version. More power then I need for a all mechanical truck. I'm thinking like $200? Have to dig up receipt to confirm. I got it at local starter shop. You can re use the stock generator bracket, just had to make spacers to locate the alternator between the original tabs on the mount. Long bolts or some all thread and nuts. It lined up perfectly with crank pulley. Had to revamp the slide bracket for adjustment as it was not correct to match up with alternator slot. Not a big deal. Then just one good, like #6 wire, run back to the batteries(bigger the better) and one good ground from alt to frame. I replaced my AMP meter with volt meter. You will need to change your battery connections to NEGATIVE ground. The starter will still work fine(the series/parallel switch should be fine too since you are just changing polarity). If you keep the AMP meter, you will need to pull dash and swap the wires around since it will read backwards with the change of polarity. I put a 12v starter in mine the same time I swap to alternator. My s/p switch was giving me fits and I was tired of messing with it. I don't recall swapping wires on gas gauge or heater motor. The heater motor should be shaded pole, meaning it only runs one way no matter what direction you put power to it. I could be wrong. I was once before......

One of my favorite videos.

Likely much cheaper/easier to just buy a new governor. Does it look like this one? Mine started failing and a new one was cheap. I know there are a few variations, but might look at using this one?

Should just be a pipe tap fitting, like 1/4"? Might be kinda stuck after all these years. Don't know what the factory put on the threads?

That chart looks to make everything .002-.005 press fit for the shank of bolt. I suppose if the shank is about the same size UNDER then it would slide in. If not, it would take a really big hammer to seat them? When I did my air ride stretch, I used Gr 8 5/8" flange bolts, self locking flange nuts and reamed the holes to 5/8". Put them down with my 3/4" impact.

Or what is left of a 318?