Freightrain

Interesting. I agree, the clutch linkage on a B is simple enough, reliable and not heavy at all. Why would they want to put an air cylinder on it? I just assumed maybe for an Aussie RH drive or something with a real weird engine/trans combination. I know it is more common on early COE.

Wonder why a B model would have air clutch? Something unique about the truck? Right hand drive?

I did some testing of the unit after taking it off the truck. Everything is fine, resistance circuits are fine and ramps up okay. One thing I did notice was my airline was small and wondered if it was not applying well enough. I changed the fittings to 1\4" plastic instead of 1\8". I aired the truck up and it seems to snap up harder\quicker with more air volume. This won't help with overall power but just better actuation. I confirmed my trailer circuit. Has 1 ohm resistance. That equates out to 12-13 amps total draw. 12 v times 1 ohm equals 12 amps. I want to change out either just the magnets or the whole backing plate/brakes. It has been 21 yrs. Going to check online for some pricing.

I recall many "older" trucks getting square lights but I thought it was for an "updated look". My old round sealed beams due fine but I need my Perlux driving lights too. They don't blind oncoming traffic with the shutters on them. The new headlights drive me to stay home after dark. Just can't deal with being blinded.

No more loose nut behind the wheel! The Pony Express has it coming your way.

Ok I have a nut and lock washer from my spare box. It is 1 1/8"-16. I forgot my pitch gages at work but using calipers it appears to be .062/ turn. Nut uses 1 13/16" wrench. If you can't come up with a nut locally I will throw this in the mail next week.

Never been an issue with brakes. I know the release valve works at only 60 psi, but at that point you don't have full pressure releasing the brakes and likely not pulling them hard enough to bottom them out. I can move my truck with only 60 psi, but you can feel the drag til it gets up full pressure. It's not an issue with the compressor cycle pressures, but at only 60 psi it is not fully released. My compressor in the garage might fill the tanks but won't be over 100 psi due to my 60 gal tank on compressor and getting it to cycle enough to fully fill the truck to 120 psi.

^^DItto, the rod length should already be set by the person that installed everything. Get online and there are layouts of what is proper. As for adjusting. I air the truck up, block the wheels, release the brakes. Then I snug the adjustment with wrench. Then back off 1/4 turn and release the lock. Make sure you pay attention to what direction is TIGHTEN. You can accidentally back them fully off instead of on. I've tried just using shop air to release the brakes but have found that you don't always get the full 120# of air and that will not release then as fully. I've had to readjust them slightly after starting truck and building air pressure. I just threw a note in my pocket so I remember tonight to check the steering box. I wasn't home last night to do.

I have three variations. The last, a slack adjuster puller did the trick. It is really stout, fit well and with a touch of heat, a smack and the arm fell off like it didn't even fit to begin with. Ugh. I had to pull it when I converted to air steering since things were just different enough I couldn't mix/match parts.

I have an extra steering box. I'll look and see if it has a nut. If not, I will confirm thread size/pitch. After what it took to get the arm off my box a few years ago.........for the life of me I can't figure out how it would fall off?? LOL!!!

That's like 45 mins south of me.

My race trailer is 15K lbs. I think the brakes lacking was the real issue why I had my little incident going to York. Thus I have been slowly working towards eliminating the problem. Just last fall, coming home one night, damp roads. If I hadn't pulled hard on the hand control previously to the light changing I would have drove through a pickup and a city bus!!! The truck just hopped and skipped as the rear tires locked up. If the trailer wasn't doing something ahead of time I would have never stopped in time(though just over the white line). I was concerned with the light on the other side of a grade, and sure enough as soon as I topped the hill, it changed. I was already on the trailer brakes, knowing it could get ugly. It almost did and if I relied on the air actuation...it would have been way too late.

My straight pipes are 4". It sounds nice, but can't say what it sounds like passing on the road.

Well, stopped at Cross Truck yesterday and they had ONE nut left. Seems the nut is NOT included with the valves these days. Yup, just a way to get ANOTHER $4 out of you along with the $45 for the valve. Geesh. I got it put in last night and works well. That is after I got it hooked up correctly. Seems I have the IN and OUT backwards and it had a bit of a "leak" when I aired the truck up. LOL! Had to pull it and swap fittings around. Strangely enough it seems to hold air better now then it did for years. I think the old Berg valve was leaking air by and you couldn't really tell. I forgot to look at it before starting the truck today, but pretty sure it had some air pressure and it typically would have NOTHING left over night. Life is good? This valve is a bit smoother in actuation then the old valve also.

Yes, I can attest to those T bar seats being HEAVY!! Ugh, had mine in/out a few times over the years and what a back breaker to do yourself.

Yes, there is a brake. I just put a Jacob brake on my ENDT675(237). Same thing as non turbo 673(all 2 valve motors). You can get parts for them, though some pieces are NLA for early engines(like my 237). It can very pricey to gather the parts up. I got my jakes from a fellow on BMT and got rebuild kits from local Mack dealer. I remember Barry selling TecBrakes? (same as Jacob), but can't find anything about them. He sent me the file with all the information years ago, but can't seem to find it right now. I've heard that a jake on a Mack is marginal, but after just playing around with mine last week for the first time...it works pretty well. I can't wait to put a trailer behind it next month.

http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_71&product_id=378 Here is the switch and it has the resistor built in for the 2 speeds. No other wiring should be needed.

Oh, so you haven't had good luck with the Warner either?? I remember paying BIG money for it, figured it would be all that. Come to find out...not so much. I tried a pendulum style in the truck when I first bought it. Truck rides a bit rough and it was very difficult to provide smooth braking. I got one of the newer(at the time) progressive styles. Hated that even worse. I have one in my '95 F150(came in it). It comes on over time and you can only adjust the time span but not the power amount. You have to constantly let off the brakes to keep the trailer from sliding the tires(when empty). I used it just a few weeks back and HATED IT. I want to find a pendulum style as they worked pretty well in a pickup. I know Tekonsha(?) had a cable style you could hook to your brake pedal in your pickup to give you variable braking. Won't really work in a big truck. I found a Hayes air/electric unit($250, ugh). I don't know if it is electronic or mechanical like the Warner? It looks to be likely electronic due to the lack of cooling holes like the big metal case of the Warner unit. I sent Hayes an email tonight...so we'll see what they say. I know my plug grounds are good, as the trailer was not touching the truck and the lights all worked fine.

I've had issues with my trailer brakes for years. Just not working well overall. Did some rewiring of the trailer to upgrade factory wiring(ie scotch loks). Still kinda vague. I finally got the truck back running and got it out so I could hook to trailer and check voltage and current of brakes. Ha! My high dollar Warner air/electric controller has issues. It draws 16 amps but only outputs 10 amps at full activation. WTF? No wonder it doesn't pull very hard. Guess I will be buying some other brand controller and hope to get brakes hitting harder.

Ya, that is what I'm looking at. Have a guy in Ohio that does it also(seen on Craigslist and Ebay) Just a bit pricey even at that price. Someday.

Ya, vintage drawn pull is my guess. Or at least some part of a chandelier? I bought a pair of lighted shift handles from Autozone 14 yrs ago. Only problem is they slip on with small set screw. They make it hard to shift accurately since they kinda "wiggle" a touch. I'd like to use them, but no real way to fasten them securely. I'd like to have something that glows for some "ambiance"......LOL!!

It says he was SWAT member. Doing his job well. One shot=one dead.

More?????

Mike Harbison did the same thing with all his 100+ trucks out in Iowa. He fought it tooth and nail and WON! I still remember that picture of him with the suit on. Friend on FB sent me a link the other day showing a 50's Chevy truck with tailgate down and water running out. Same kinda thing as that Dodge. Kinda cool actually.

Still want me a Galaga game for the dining room! They get really stupid money for them, even the table top models. Guess it is out of the budget.