Freightrain

I have an extra steering box. I'll look and see if it has a nut. If not, I will confirm thread size/pitch. After what it took to get the arm off my box a few years ago.........for the life of me I can't figure out how it would fall off?? LOL!!!

That's like 45 mins south of me.

My race trailer is 15K lbs. I think the brakes lacking was the real issue why I had my little incident going to York. Thus I have been slowly working towards eliminating the problem. Just last fall, coming home one night, damp roads. If I hadn't pulled hard on the hand control previously to the light changing I would have drove through a pickup and a city bus!!! The truck just hopped and skipped as the rear tires locked up. If the trailer wasn't doing something ahead of time I would have never stopped in time(though just over the white line). I was concerned with the light on the other side of a grade, and sure enough as soon as I topped the hill, it changed. I was already on the trailer brakes, knowing it could get ugly. It almost did and if I relied on the air actuation...it would have been way too late.

My straight pipes are 4". It sounds nice, but can't say what it sounds like passing on the road.

Well, stopped at Cross Truck yesterday and they had ONE nut left. Seems the nut is NOT included with the valves these days. Yup, just a way to get ANOTHER $4 out of you along with the $45 for the valve. Geesh. I got it put in last night and works well. That is after I got it hooked up correctly. Seems I have the IN and OUT backwards and it had a bit of a "leak" when I aired the truck up. LOL! Had to pull it and swap fittings around. Strangely enough it seems to hold air better now then it did for years. I think the old Berg valve was leaking air by and you couldn't really tell. I forgot to look at it before starting the truck today, but pretty sure it had some air pressure and it typically would have NOTHING left over night. Life is good? This valve is a bit smoother in actuation then the old valve also.

Yes, I can attest to those T bar seats being HEAVY!! Ugh, had mine in/out a few times over the years and what a back breaker to do yourself.

Yes, there is a brake. I just put a Jacob brake on my ENDT675(237). Same thing as non turbo 673(all 2 valve motors). You can get parts for them, though some pieces are NLA for early engines(like my 237). It can very pricey to gather the parts up. I got my jakes from a fellow on BMT and got rebuild kits from local Mack dealer. I remember Barry selling TecBrakes? (same as Jacob), but can't find anything about them. He sent me the file with all the information years ago, but can't seem to find it right now. I've heard that a jake on a Mack is marginal, but after just playing around with mine last week for the first time...it works pretty well. I can't wait to put a trailer behind it next month.

http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_71&product_id=378 Here is the switch and it has the resistor built in for the 2 speeds. No other wiring should be needed.

Oh, so you haven't had good luck with the Warner either?? I remember paying BIG money for it, figured it would be all that. Come to find out...not so much. I tried a pendulum style in the truck when I first bought it. Truck rides a bit rough and it was very difficult to provide smooth braking. I got one of the newer(at the time) progressive styles. Hated that even worse. I have one in my '95 F150(came in it). It comes on over time and you can only adjust the time span but not the power amount. You have to constantly let off the brakes to keep the trailer from sliding the tires(when empty). I used it just a few weeks back and HATED IT. I want to find a pendulum style as they worked pretty well in a pickup. I know Tekonsha(?) had a cable style you could hook to your brake pedal in your pickup to give you variable braking. Won't really work in a big truck. I found a Hayes air/electric unit($250, ugh). I don't know if it is electronic or mechanical like the Warner? It looks to be likely electronic due to the lack of cooling holes like the big metal case of the Warner unit. I sent Hayes an email tonight...so we'll see what they say. I know my plug grounds are good, as the trailer was not touching the truck and the lights all worked fine.

I've had issues with my trailer brakes for years. Just not working well overall. Did some rewiring of the trailer to upgrade factory wiring(ie scotch loks). Still kinda vague. I finally got the truck back running and got it out so I could hook to trailer and check voltage and current of brakes. Ha! My high dollar Warner air/electric controller has issues. It draws 16 amps but only outputs 10 amps at full activation. WTF? No wonder it doesn't pull very hard. Guess I will be buying some other brand controller and hope to get brakes hitting harder.

Ya, that is what I'm looking at. Have a guy in Ohio that does it also(seen on Craigslist and Ebay) Just a bit pricey even at that price. Someday.

Ya, vintage drawn pull is my guess. Or at least some part of a chandelier? I bought a pair of lighted shift handles from Autozone 14 yrs ago. Only problem is they slip on with small set screw. They make it hard to shift accurately since they kinda "wiggle" a touch. I'd like to use them, but no real way to fasten them securely. I'd like to have something that glows for some "ambiance"......LOL!!

It says he was SWAT member. Doing his job well. One shot=one dead.

More?????

Mike Harbison did the same thing with all his 100+ trucks out in Iowa. He fought it tooth and nail and WON! I still remember that picture of him with the suit on. Friend on FB sent me a link the other day showing a 50's Chevy truck with tailgate down and water running out. Same kinda thing as that Dodge. Kinda cool actually.

Still want me a Galaga game for the dining room! They get really stupid money for them, even the table top models. Guess it is out of the budget.

Thread OD would never be bigger then nominal size. .002-.005 would be typical clearance on OD on something that size. So, 22.5 mm is .885, so .881 is right on. ISO...... ugh, don't even bring that up around my work. We tried that like 15 yrs ago. What a failure that was. We had two different people/places come in and try to get us certified. Never happen. The owner thought we needed to be since we deal with Automotive stuff. Lucky we are like 3rd tier and not considered to need ISO certification. We wasted A LOT of money both in time and material(mostly paper). Some of it helped with paper trail and forms we still use today. The rest? Fogettabotit.

Nothing worse then being on the motorcycle and getting stuck behind someone smoking one of them turds with their window down. 'Bout turns my stomach. I suppose not all of them smell that bad? I don't care to find out personally. Luckily none of my close acquaintances smoke anything at all.

That firetruck is similar to this one for being short and to the point:

Threw pitch gauges on it this morning. 1.25 mm or 20 TPI. The 20 actually fits better, but at .881 diameter it can't be 7/8"? Has to be 22.5 mm x 1.25 thread(just because). Likely just order the nut from you link Jim. Thanks.

.866 is 22mm so figure 22.5. Was going to take it to work and throw a pitch gage on it. Yes, likely the nut fell out of package somewhere along the way before I got it. Didn't think much about it til I got home and realized it. Then found out it was bigger then Berg thread. Ugh.

Picked up a new Bendix today. Once I got the handle off the shaft I realized it was 5/16". I put it on my mill and lined the hole up and enlarged it to 3/8" and drilled it for larger roll pin. Only problem is the valve didn't come with a nut? Of course it is larger then my old valve. It is bastard size thread OD? .885. not 7/8" so I wonder if bastard metric? Need to figure that out before installation.

Sounds about right? I need to measure it and see. It's crazy how it just snapped in half and fell in my hand when I went to release the brakes.

Thanks guys. I have the technology to make anything fit!!

The center pin broke inside. It's junk.