dds92780

Yeah i hear ya. this is an E7 engine and they make peak torque at 1250 and max hp at 1800. it makes full boost around 1400rpm. I am going to check it tomorrow though.

So i got the truck back today. i havent hauled anything yet so i dont know how much more power it could have. When i bobtailed there tho it was only doing 25 psi and on the way home it was doing 28psi. If you mash the throttle from a low rpm it does let out a tiny bit of black smoke like i wanted but nothing compared to my old r with a 300 and a puff limiter removed hehe. It does feel more responsive and doesnt have a shake to it anymore and just seems healthier is all i can say. Its basically running the way it should now but wont beat a new mack titan or anything like that

That is very good. do you have twin sticks or a 9spd or 13spd or what? What rear end ratio is that you have?

yeah i here what you are saying. 427s arent a whole lot faster than me and my dads 18 spd 3406b pete with 370 horse and 3.90 rears are pretty close and thats with me already having a misfire. so i agree that just having it rebuilt will be a big improvement. maybe i will be just as fast or close to some 427s that have 4.17 rears now. (crosses fingers) Thanks for keeping this topic alive too guys

Stork are you saying with the pump rebuilt and turned up 20 percent it will be fine as far as being reliable or are you saying that just having the pump rebuilt i will be happy enough with the outcome? i think you are meaning that a rebuilt stock pump will be just fine which i kinda agree on because the stock one running with a misfire was fine too.

Just got some feedback from the pump shop, He said there was some major things wrong that needed to be addressed and fixed Delivery valves, governor and some sort of plate or bushing kit lol. Anyways, he said that they are only allowed to put the pump on the high end of spec because thats the law. So i then asked how do i ever turn it up more if i ever want to then because this is pretty much the only time im going to able to i thought. He said its a P style pump and there are some shops out there that can do that for me. sounds good right?

The problem is that i cant just turn it up like that. it can only be turned up when its not on the truck and adjusted that way. Not sure how long it would last after i turned it up that much. believe me i would like more power but i also know in order to keep everything safe and running pristine, 5 percent again is good enough. the truck was'nt even running right before and it kept right up with my dads pete with a 3406b engine at 360 horse but he does he a 3.9 ratio and i have 4.42 so i would imagine now i would be faster than him off the line right? and im also concerned with fuel economy. I thought that i could go as high as 15 percent and be fine and the turbo would spool more and everything but i was talked out of it:(

Wheres all the work at? I dont have a steel dump tho

Yes but they are only allowed to go within the spec to keep it long lasting. That should be good enough. you have to watch for the drivetrain too. Keep in mind, it never ran good before all this so when its done it should be even better. i would like 10-15 percent too but i dont really know how to safely achieve it without wasting a ton of fuel either

OMG!!! That triple dragster is insane! i want my R to sound like that!!!

So i just did some research on the e7 350 mechanical. Did you know that its almost impossible to find anything out about boost pressures and what people have accomplished online? Well, it is. Anyways, i read that a guy was getting 35 psi on his and he has also seen older e6 315s get 50!!! now i know i have a misfire and the truck is currently getting the pump rebuilt and i was getting about 28 pounds but around 20 pounds and up the guage would be shakey. I wonder if it will really do 32 or so with a proper running pump now and not to mention turned about 5 percent! what do you all think? I want to hear more boost numbers from everyone too and engine type Thanks

So they finally called back and said that the delivery valves were bad and the governors or governor was bad and it s just basically all being rebuilt. They are turning it up about 5 percent so i hope that will be enjoyable enough. So do you think the reason a cylinder was always running colder than the others is a delivery valve? i dont know all the parts that are involved in building a pump so im curious to hear from an expert

I LOVED IT!!! That superliner at the end is sweet too Thank you so much for posting

Well, i finally bit the bullet and took my truck into midwest fuel injection at bolingbrook today to get the pump rebuilt. i should hear by the end of today what was wrong with it and what it needs. i hope to see a big improvement in how quick the boost builds, throttle response, quicker start up, better fuel economy etc. The pump is off of a e7 350 mechanical so im guessing when i get it back if they turn it up 7 to 10 percent i should be happy

Well, here is an update and im still pretty confused. UP to this point my brakes still had a vibration sound when braking so we took off one of the wheels and noticed the wheel bearing was slightly too tight so i can honestly say that it doesnt do that sound anymore. All the brake chambers up to this point have the correct geometry and the s cams and slack adjusters are new as well. Here is the problem still though. I have a heat gun , so i test the heat of each drum on the tractor and im stumped as to why this is happening and so is my mechanic and my dad who is very smart about mechanics too! The problem is that the heat for all 4 drums is significantly different. LEFT FRONT 125 degrees LEFT REAR 225 degrees RIGHT FRONT 170 degrees RIGHT REAR 315 degrees!!! I don't get it because everything is new. My dad things that i just got harder shoes on the one that is getting to 300 degrees but what i dont understand is why i cant just get them to all work the same and do 150 each lets say! PLEASE HELP cause i dont know what to do other than just drive it and not care anymore. thanks

As the topic states, if you have an e7 350 mechanical i want to know how much you are boosting under a load. The spec sheet says i should get anywhere from 24-32 psi. I am getting 28 and also have a misfire so i was wondering if anyone is getting better or worse than me and how is the response time to get full boost? it seems that it goes from 10-20 pretty quick then soo soo up to 25 then kinda shakes up till 28

That is a sweet R. How did he get his gauge panels to be different color? do they make those? or do you have to take all the gauges out and then have a cutout made and go from there?

Does anybody know what visors those are on the side of the window on the first truck in the pictures? the red RD mack! I have the rain guard ones that are mounted on the top of the window but i never seen the side ones for the side windows maybe its just a rain guard but mounted sideways???

I just got it back but it was late at night and i dont know what they really did yet. The secretary told me that they had to shorten rods and change 3 brake chambers though so i will bring my heat gun tomorrow and see what happens

awesome answer superdog! now if i could just copy and paste that to my mechanic so they dont charge me time for diagnosing the problem and taking longer than they should. i will post results though

here are my guesses and this is without having hardly any mechanical knowledge at all about this . Probably gonna be a brake chamber and something on it needs to be shortened, maybe a new slack adjuster? Its funny because the vibration goes away when you push the brakes down a lil harder. this has to be because the right rear is doing most of the work, so when i push down more the others start to do work. yep im a genius

Well, here are some results. I am taking it into the shop tomorrow to have them attempt to fix it. All my brakes show anywhere from 100 to 140 degrees temperature. I have a heat gun and the culprit seems to be the passenger rear axle heating up to 330 degrees even in this cold weather. yeah thats a problem. only thing i can see is that the brake chamber from the chamber to the center of the pin has 4 inches of clearance and the others have 2 inches. this could be causing it. im not sure what it is. but every brake being close to 120 to 150 degrees shows that the right rear is doing all the work and thats where the sound could be coming from??? where would you guys start?

Wow, its nice to see some RD macks for once

Wow, now that is a cool website, united pacific for the win. i have looked everywhere and i don't know why that never came up. thanks again

Very awesome setup LMACK!!! That is what im talking about! You even got the dog next to you lol. The nicest interior ive ever seen on an R Do they have a website? What size is it for the tach and the speedo? i know the the regular gauges i think are 2 1/16 inches.