dds92780

After researching more i have looked into the RTLOF 14713A and it seems to be the perfect fit for my setup. i get a first gear of 8.64 vs the 7.47 i currently have giving me a better low hole. low gear sacrifices .25 which it makes up in for 1st gear though so i like it. im thinking though if i get this trans with my already low top end 442s then low gears would be even shorter but almost the same in the top gears it shows with the abiltiy to split them on the high side. does this seem like a good setup? or do i gotta switch the rear ends too? i wish i would of known about all this stuff before choosing a truck ;(

very good info thanks. so it looks like i can keep my existing trans and just add a back box to make it a 13spd with the same gearing that way i can get more out of it on hills? i dont do a whole lot of highway driving. i do mostly dump work but when i find myself on the highway or a main road i try to do 55mph or so but crusing at 60 or so with the rpms down lower would help

Midwest told me they are waiting to get a core in there so they can build one for me but also told me i should go in to get my truck diagnosed first but im pretty sure the pump is the problem. if i go in there and leave my truck it could take 3-5 days to have them rebuild mine and run it on the higher side and i dont really want to wait that long so i guess im thinking i will just wait till winter time when work slows down or usually stops. What is the difference from a rebuilt mack pump and a midwest injection pump? They told me at midwest that they usually run their pumps on the higher side which means better response of the engine so that intrigues me and im not sure what mack offers. Any experience with this?

First of all i wanted to thank ALL of YOU for sharing your superior knowledge of all this so far! The truck i drive is a RD mack with a e7 350 in it topping out at 1800 rpm. i have 22.5 tires on it. A RTXF14609B trans with .73 overdrive. I have 442 rears. From what i gather so far is that if i can get a 13 speed in it and change an auxillary to .63 overdrive i would have a setup that still does what mine does but split the top gears. Would this give me a lower crusing rpm in top gear at 65? would my top speed still be 65? would my low hole still be the same? I was looking at a chart for the 8ll and it does look like a good trans for the low hole but on top end looks the exact same for every ratio up till 8 Is doing this swap going to increase mpg at all?

Nevermind, i think i understand it now. I cant get more out of my top gear because its maxed out but if i want to split the other gears to drop down the rpm i can. if i max out 7th gear and want to drop the rpms down a lil lower then i can do that but i cant do the same with my final gear because it doesnt have a gear after that to share i guess. im talking about if i had a 13 speed by the way. hope i didnt confuse you all but i think i finally understand all this now lol

yeah its a .073. what i dont understand is why if i can currently do 65 at 1800 in 9th how come if i get a 13speed with a ratio of .73 it would still do 65 at 1800 but then when i put it into 13 wouldnt it still go that speed but drop down the rpm a little and maybe get a top speed of 70? this is what i dont understand about it. i figured i would be able to get a 13speed that does what my nine does but just split the high gears which should allow me to drop the rpms when i max out a gear to make it more useable and also if i max out 65 at 1800 flip the switch to split that gear and go to maybe 1500 or 1600 at 65 which also would let me do a higher top speed because of splitting it. Or i am just not understanding this correctly. I know that lower rear end would solve the top end more but i cant i squeeze out a tiny bit more with just a 13 speed is all. sorry about the rant. my truck is in the shop and im not working and im bored

The trans is a RTXF14609 B . the guy on fuller said that i wouldnt be able to increase topspeed at a lower rpm though with a 13 speed which doesnt really make sense to me. so i have to change the rear end and the trans just to get more useable power and fuel economy? is this the only option? how much does this all cost?

How long does this normally take if you take to an injection shop? They told me they still need to locate a core and then build it for me. I am considering this route because i only want my truck down for one day otherwise i can take it there and they take my pump out and then rebuild it and then put that one in. They said the pump would be anywhere between 1800 to 2600 depending on what is wrong with mine. How much can i expect to pay for a core? they told me they dont have any cores, its like waiting for a kidney i guess. Should i waste 3 days of work to just take my truck in and get it done or finish the year with a misfire?

wow thanks for the good info storkmack i would hate to have made that mistake. so basically i just need to find a 13 speed with an overdrive in it and i will be alot happier. my dad just found an eaton manual with all the ratios and makes of the trans. how exciting now i can get exactly what i want. what i hate in my trans is that the top right gear in high which is 7 for me goes to 45 or at 1800 rpm and if the speed limit is 40 i have to be in that gear to have any useable power if i go to 8th at 40 its around 1100 rpm which is too low for me so for me to be able to split it to lets say get around 1350 or so would be great. 65-68 mph goes to 1800 so if i can split my last gear to do lets say even 1500 at that speed i would be happier. is this all possible if i keep my same rear end?

Glenn thanks for the info, im going to call mack with my vin and see what info they can give me and i am pretty sure i do have an overdrive too. I would like to be able to split the last gear i have and get the rpms down lower when cruising. would this do that?

As the topic says, what is needed to do this? I have 442 rears and i thought the cheapest option to get better economy and more power through the hills is to get a 13 speed or just add more gears. What is involved in this process and has anyone done this???

890 for the fully loaded seat with 4 way lumbar air controls on the left side, dark grey velour 80 to get a broker to bring it in past us customs and 195 to ship, 37 dollars charged to my card for an international charge bringing the total to 1210 after taxes!!!!! I tried calling a few places after i even had the quote new from canada and my dealer said he couldnt get the seat because it isnt on his list so finally i just called canada back and said just ship it to me directly if you can. what a pain in the arse but it should be here next week and its going in my RD Mack. I will post pictures if anyone can walk me how to as soon as i get the seat And yes it is the seat that pivots the lower back (knee action patented movement is what they call it)

I finally ordered the seat! I had to order it direct from canada and it should be here by next week my other seat is killing me!!!

Also what is your personal opinion on color to go with? my truck is white with the R interior and my dad suggested grey but i havent seen a pic of one in grey yet so im not sure what it looks like. also if i can even do a two tone , what would be the better choice? base grey with black armrests or base black with grey armrests? Thanks again Dustin

leather sounds nice in that seat. my dad has a velour cloth maroon colored one in his maroon pete and its awesome. his has the air switches on the driver side and my old that i got came from a guy that had a warehouse full of them and i didnt get the air switches on the side just the manual knobs so this time i will make sure that i order the seat with all the bells and whistles. you think i can get them to make it with the mack bulldog on it instead of VIP??? So this is probably the best seat out there right? Thats the conclusion im coming to and thats also based on experience. Looks like ill be calling canada back monday and probably waiting a few weeks for them to make it lol

761 Brock. You are talking about the VIP seat right? its kinda a funky seat in the way that you have to adjust the height first and when you use the air controls it makes the seat go up and lean forward at the same time so its best to let the air out until you are just off the ground . I had the black one but the rep in canada also told me it comes in grey and maybe another color . I was thinking of getting in grey with black armrests? or black with grey armrests? What do you think of that or just stick with one color? I thought it might be neat because the R interior is mostly black and grey

http://www.seatscanada.com/catalogue/eldoradovip.htm http://www.seatscanada.com/catalogue/eldoradovip.htm Has anyone had any experience with this seat? i am looking to put it in my 95 Mack RD 6886. Is it really the only seat out there that has the VIP knee flexion system? If i am going to be spending close to a 1000 dollars then what would be a good choice for a truck seat? I see that bostrom makes a ton of different type of seats and northern tool even has some but im confused as to what to get. I have a bad lower back already and a good seat for me is a must. I had the VIP seat in my old 89 R before and i loved it but now i am getting ready to order it again but this time you have to go through canada only and then have a dealer here in the states get it for you. Why don't the states make this seat anymore??? Also this is my first time trying to upload a pic so if it doesnt work ill post a link in my next post. Thanks

how much does this project cost? i have an rd688 with 442 rears and i can only top out at 65mph and i was wondering how to get more out of it as well

Anyone else know what i can do to squeeze more power out of this other than a blixton upgrade which isnt even an option for me because its mechanical. Anyone? any older timers that have tinkered with a truck like mine???

Thanks for the response and yeah i believe that the 442 rears do make the difference in poor mileage. It could also be that i have a bad injection pump that has a miss and i would say that i have only about 320 hp right now but i do keep up with other trucks. I want to take my truck to midwest fuel injection in illinois and have them do the new pump and dyno it and hopefully they can squeeze a little more out of it? I dont want to have to change the injectors or turbo though, just get a lil more out of it and still not get hardly any smoke at all. what are the advantages of having a mechanical pump vs electronic anyways??? I don't really see an advantage anymore at this point I will say this though, there are sometimes where if i am loaded and i take off in first gear and just about kill it from being easy on it and then floor it, it gets almost instant boost, but it usually has a delay all the time. I had my adenoid for boost checked out and it was good so im not sure why it does that sometimes? could it be that when i get my new pump it will have that kind of instant power all the time? Sorry about the long post but i just got this truck and havent ridden in any other macks before. I used to have a 89 R with 300 and twin stick and it woudl blow smoke and had more instant power so im guessing its either the pump or just that the E7 is inferior to the E6?

jzack i wonder why your mpg is so much better than mine. what kind of work do you do? i have alot of stop and go at traffic lights and hills for my job because i do gravel hauling. it could also be your computer setup. I have a book that shows all the engine makes for 95 and shows that the vmac makes more hp quicker and uses less fuel spray out of the injectors the entire range whereas my mechanical pump makes gradual 350 hp and uses fuel spray as the hp goes up. I wish i had the vmac because then i could also get a blixton upgrade. I am going to be getting a new injection pump soon and wanted them to tinker with it to make it a lil more responsive and also get the fuel maps closer to the vmac. What do you all think my options would be? you cant get a blixton upgrade with a mechanical bosch pump can you?

anybody?

Lets hear what kind of MPG you are all getting with your setup. List the rear end ratio and transmisson type and engine. Ill start. I have a 95 RD688S used to have a twin stick 89 R with 300 for all you classic lovers. anyways, E7 350 Mechanical Fuller 9 spd 442 rears 65-67 mph is top speed at 1800 rpm The best i have gotten is 5.5 mpg but the past few days i have gotten 5.15 averaging a speed of 60mph. The Worst i have seen is 4.4mpg and that was being loaded almost all day and going up hills. What is the sweet spot of this engine to get the best economy? Thanks

Bump or to the top of this forum TTT lets see what others might think of this

The truck is a 95 RD with only 340000 miles and burns no oil or blows any smoke so at least thats good