dds92780

So i have an R model with aluminum steer wheels and i was using the 1 1/2 inch - 2 inch lug nut covers by roadmaster. The problem is that a lot of them do not fit. (too loose) In the past i have used electrical tape on the nut itself so that when i put on the cover its a tighter fit, I still managed to lose a few of them though. I just got my wheels professionally polished the other day and i want the nut covers to go on without being loose. Isn't 33mm about the same size so maybe i can try that? Can someone point me in the right direction? What do you all use? I am tempted to just order a pair of 33mm cause if you do the math 33mm converted to inches is about 1.3 and if 1.5 is too big then i don't see why not use that?

I think it is supposed to be that low stock

So I took your advice and had a little fun with the spray can. I painted my half fenders black. I used a flat black because when I tried gloss black it just didn't look right. My fenders have numerous cracks and are a little bent so I didn't care to have them shiny anymore. Ill post pics later

Ill make it simple for ya. 5.0 to 6.5 depending on workload or hills and if you have a lot of stop and go. You can see 6.5 if you are constantly on the road.

I got the eldorado vip high back seat in my R with it all the way back and im 5 10 and i dont have the issues that you are all having.

Jones has good stuff and uou can leave the turn signal holes on the top shaved and get a signal mounted by the headlight or on the front side of bumper. I think that would look cool and I haven't seen anyone do that.

So i was looking through my manual for my truck and i noticed that the EM7 makes 1425 torque at 1025 rpm and a max 310 HP at 1500 rpm. I am stumped as to why the E7 350 only makes 1266 torque at 1250rpm and 350 hp at 1800 rpm. I guess what i don't get is why they made the 300 Hp EM7 have more torque than all the engines up to 427 and how did they do it? What is different about that engine? The compression ratio is the same as far as i see.

Isn't it true that if you have the RD "uglier" style hood, you can just get the western grill to replace the stock grill? I have seen a few that have done that and think it looks pretty cool. I am debating whether doing that or puttting that "attatchment" that is chrome that connects to the bumper (sorta resembles a mustache on mine) I hate the ugly grill on the RD!

i want a to switch out my rd "uglier style" for a western hood myself but not sure how difficult the task is.

I'm on my phone but from the description you gave it sounds like you have western style r model hood

Did you remove everything ac related from under the hood just to save weight?

So i found out the weight differences of the 38k and 44k The 38k is 312 pounds per spring pack making a pair weigh in at 624 pounds The 44k is 353 pounds per spring pack making a pair weigh in at 706 pounds The 38k is 6 inches tall of steel The 44k is 7.5 inches tall of steel. So if i was kicking myself for not getting the 38k instead of the 44k to save weight, now i feel better!!! Its only a 82 pound savings!

I found this too which should help some of us. It doesnt state the real weight difference though in each one. 38K Rear 44K Rear 58K Rear Total Leaf Thickness approx 6" approx 7.5" approx 10" Axle Flange Diameter approx 7.5" approx 8.75" approx 10" Axle Flange Shape flat cone cone # of Bolts on Flange 8 6 8

Does anyone know if there is a big weight difference between 34k 38k and 44k springs? I had mine replaced last year and i was told not to go from 44k to 34k and i dont know why. I kinda still want to swap them out for a lighter one but don't know if its a waste of time and money at this point. All i can see is that i would have had to get different u bolts.

Mine picks and chooses when it wants to grind from hi to low, sometimes at 15mph it doesnt do it and then all a sudden going into low at 5-7mph it will. It isnt that often to make me want to do it asap though.

How would getting bigger injectors help vs just turning up the pump? And wouldnt having bigger injectors making it spray more meaning i would use more fuel? Could you please explain?

Sooo, i found a guy that said he could turn up my pump by turning the screw and moving the rack forward more and weakening the spring on the aneroid valve for 150 dollars with it all on the truck if i drive there. He has been in business for 30 years and i heard a ton of good things about him. He said that i would be very happy when he is done with it. I currently average 5.7mpg in the last 20 days and on some of those days i got over 6. Yesterday i got 6.5! I do mostly 18 wheeler dump work where i gross 72k and have stop and go traffic. I wonder what it will be when i get all that done. I heard that its best to have a turned up pump so you don't have to wait for boost to build up as long thus making the pyro temps lower. I usually never go over 825 or 850 on a long hard pull and get close to 30 psi of boost, have seen 32 in winter. A little history too - (I had my pump rebuilt 6 months ago at midwest fuel injection bolingbrook and the shop said they could only put it on the high end of spec which i have no clue the number is maybe 365 or so right now) So i feel a pump hot rodder guy is the way to go... So even if the boost builds quicker it will probably never exceed 32 psi because i wouldnt be changing the turbo or injectors, (injectors were rebuilt last year too) Just to be clear ( i am the only driver of the this truck and i own it) (E7 350 mechanical with 442 rears) (Truck has 370k on it now) I feel by turning up the pump more, i would be benefiting from it and maybe using less throttle, looking out my window to see if smoke comes out the stack and lay off on it, but when i want the power its there for hills and just to get better mpg maybe? Does anyone see anything wrong with this or is my way of thinking on this seem to be correct? I also am not trying to make this a tractor pull truck, just give me a little better mpg if possible, get the turbo and torque to come on a little sooner and maybe hopefully keep up evenly with a 427 or so, Ok lets here your feedback and maybe tell me if you have done it yourself and what results you got. Thanks a bunch to my mack bulldog family!

232 miles, 36.1 gallons, 6.53 MPG!!!

Oh really?

That's the setup i have minus the 400 i have a 350

Can i make my e7350 mechanical be the same as an e7400? I mean not just turning up the pump, but is the turbo and pistons and compression different too? I know that you can just turn up the pump and get 400 out of it but what about the same reliability as a 400?

I can't wait until someone sees me randomly on route 47 and galena or 88 and post a picture of my truck

If its loose you should tighten it up.

I love seeing all the appreciation that people show towards a nice looking R model work truck!

So i guess my question is, what is the best trans to get to keep the weight down, have more low hole if i need it and maybe a splitter? would i be looking at a fuller 18 then? I have been on there website a few times and looked at what a good option might be, but then the more i think about, i think if it aint broke dont fix it. I talk to plenty of people that do just fine with a 9 speed, another guy has an 8ll and said he never even really uses the low low hole on soft stuff. Most people just say its a waste of time to even consider changing it. I do however have a problem with the splitter that allows it to go from low to high or high to low though, the low gears go all the way up to 15-17mph at 1800 rpm, however if i want to get back into low from high, it sometimes grinds even when im doing 10mph or 15mph. You never know what you are going to get. If I got that part replaced or fixed would i be able to put it in low even at 18-20mph without it grinding until i actually put it into gear? That is the way it is supposed to work right?