dds92780

My 89 would always surge slightly when it has hot out in the summer, it made it hard to shift the twin stick smooth i tell you that much. I never did find out what the problem was though

do you have enough money to wait to get paid? 8 weeks sometimes, do you have enough to pay for fuel and repairs while waiting for the checks to come in, enough money for insurance, workers comp.

yeah i hear great things about the mack 12 speed, kinda exactly what i want, i thought the twin stick was great for what i do, how do i even get a 12 speed? i have a fuller bell housing, so what are my options then? should i just look for a truck with a 12 speed? i only have 350k original miles on my truck right now. grrrrrr I guess i just really miss the low hole gears i had, and i dont like having only one useable reverse gear and i would also like to split the top gears mainly just overdrive because its such a big jump, 1200 rpm starts at 45 mph but even when im loaded and not climbing a hill i put it in overdrive at 35ish to get the rpm at 8-900 or so when i would really like to be at 1200 at that speed. So just a fuller 18 speed?

So i was wondering if there is a transmission that eaton makes that can give me more reverse gears. I have a fuller rtxf1409b right now. 9 speed. I really miss my old R model with the twin sticks because i could literally back and then double clutch the next gear and get her going fast which is needed for some of these tougher jobs where they want you to be a magician backing up over some really muddy conditions. It's not only that, but i need more deep end reduction for when the ground is really soft. I have a 442 rear end and when i stop on soft dirt its not so easy to get going forward or reverse without slipping the clutch which i hate doing. with the twin stick i could just put it in low 1st and then put it in direct which is basically direct first but there were no splitters needed or garbage like that. What are my options here? Just an 8LL?

what is this weld on process you are referring to?

I didnt know where to post this but i thought i would try this. The spiders are worn out on my trailer. For anyone that doesnt know, a spider bushing is the part that is closest to the wheel and goes inbetween the scam. When it fails you are left with your brakes hanging down and dragging unless you loosen them. I know the solution is to obviously just get the brakes done and get that fixed at the same time but what about if the brakes are still good and i want to just lift the scam up about an 1/8 of an inch? I have tried wire, twisting it around a bolt and running another through the scam cylinder and twisting with a vice grip until it lifts, it works but not for long. It gets weak over time. I have even tried the wires and a tight spring to lift it up, again it worked but not for long. Im not about to just get a brake job to solve this problem, so any ideas???

Is this a joke?

I paid 800 for isolator bushings installed, and another 3800 for trunion bushings and new 44k spring packs installed. so about 5000

But how much weight does it even save? So maybe that is why they told me i couldn't make the switch was because i would have to change the housing too? I think, because it was just easier to say no.

Holy crap, im kinda disappointed that i didn't go with the 34k like i wanted to then. I had it all apart, isolaters , trunion bushings, and spring packs, I would of left the axles the same though they told me no though

Doesn't it save a few Hundred pounds? Do you know from experience what a 34 38 44 all feel like in a tractor trailer setup empty vs loaded? I never thought about it being legal anymore though.

I guess if you guys had a choice of changing out your 44k rears to a 38k or 34k would u and why would you?

Yes that helps if i were going to do this project or if anyone else is, i really want to know what the weight difference is and what the difference is between a 34 38 44, advantage and disadvantage? one ride better? one lighter? if you get too light a spring will it not ride right? I was told i should stick with 44s because i only haul gravel and do construction and i needed the extra support?

I have rubber bushings and i am sure i went with 44s because i was talked out of going to a 34 or a 38. My dad said it would ride nicer and be lighter but the mechanic and mack said either we couldnt do it or it wasnt recommended so im not sure why they would of said that or what the advantage or disadvantage would have been. I have seen other trucks or truck paper and rbauction sell and they had 38s on almost 90 percent of them have 44s i never knew why though. I am not complaining about my comfort of the ride i just wanted an answer to this mystery.

Anyone know the weight difference between a 44000 pound spring for the tractor vs a 34000 pound spring? Can it be swapped? I ask because last year i had my trunion bushing and spring packs replaced and my dad advised me to go with 34000 pound springs because he said it would ride nicer and be lighter. At the time i asked mack and my mechanic and they both said either you cannot or its not a good idea, i forget which. COULD it have been done? What would be the disadvantage or advantage? i haul 73280 with this setup too.

Yes, you all made me feel better, Today, i am doing the same job and going to drive even slower since its hourly anyways, i will post my LEGIT numbers today for you all!

Ok so here is what i don't get. I drove 370 miles today for some stupid hourly job going to rockford waste treatment plant. I put in 61 gallons at the end of the day which puts me right at 6.1 mpg which i thought was good enough. Then there is another guy that has the same truck as me and did 340 miles and put in 41 gallons SO HE SAYS. That is 8.3 mpg . Is that even possible? I have to work with him again tomorrow and there is no way he is getting 8mpg and im getting 6 doing the same job and same gearing and rear end ratio with same spec truck? I just don't think he knows what he is talking about.

Finally, I got 6.35 MPG!!! the last two days i took it really easy, even though it was windy as hell, i took off with a good amount of throttle, maybe half to 60 percent, never going over 50 with local driving if i didnt have to, and i would time the lights knowing that i would get yellow so i not even be giving it much. even on the highways i would only go 55 and whenever i could get into overdrive with enough power and not lugging it , i would, I drove all day yesterday and then put 20.2 gallons in to have enough for today, then after today i racked up 508 miles and put another 59.8 in topping it off for a total of 80 gallons at 508 miles, not bad huh? This is with grossing 73000 and windy conditions then empty back.

Carl is a great guy and has a ton of RD's! I always wave when i see a white or red RD with a bug shield and sure enough its them!

I used to drive my old R with twin stick and the tachometer was broken and the so was the speedo and i drove it forever until i got pulled over by a cop he said i was doing 50 in a 45, asked how fast i was going and i told him based on the engine noise i thought i was doing about 45 to 47 and he coulldn't give me a speeding ticket because when he looked at my speedo it was stuck on 45!!! So he gave me an EQUIPMENT WARNING. Lol, I had all those gears memorized

lesson learned!

This is Dean Noggle's old truck! small world huh? Very nice guy!

On another side note, My older R model was 300 pounds lighter but it had quarter fenders and it didnt have the storage box on the side that you see on the passenger side of mine, How much weight difference do you think those items are? how much does that storage box weigh?