Firemack

Baderjune You can have the waterpump rebuilt. There are several waterpump rebuilders. I used arthur gould in new york to rebuild our water pump on our B75, the cost was about $105 and took about 1 week. You can find arthurs contact info if you searrch this site or google That is a nice looking B95!! Firemack

FRD1419 Try contacting Cal Little, he restores antique Mack Fire trucks and has lots of old Mack Parts. 717- 566-8973. Best time to call is around lunch or 5pm. Firemack

Bumblebee That looks good , like a B75 with the aluminum polished up, what color will the grill guard be? Firemack

Try Paul Romano, He has lots of CF parts. He can be contacted at paulromano@pipeline.com Firemack

FRD1419 The best way to start is do a compression test, once you have that you can post them here so we can review. Once you have the compression then go through the engine from ignition to carb and check all of the settings. The most likely cause of problems is ignition first then carb. Firemack

Niceguypmp3- The power divider should engage your your rear (rear) axle. The power is normally applied to front rear axle in tandem axle trucks. If you had both right side wheels off the ground switching to the rear (rear) axle would not help if you don't have posi rears on your truck. If you had posi rears, either rear should have moved the truck. Normally you would use the power divider is if your raised the front (rear) axle off the ground and the (rear) rear axle still was in contact with the ground such as going over a curb etc. Hope that helps, if you have the owners manual you can read up on the use of the power divider. Firemack

Rich, I would first check with the Perkasie Fire company and see if they have stashed somewhere back in the old files. If not then contact the Mack Museum (link and contact info on this site)and they can reconstruct one for you. i do recommend that you send them at least $100-$200 donation for the time and effort to asemble this for you. Firemack

Gary, The grab handles and railings are Mack specific, and not easy to find. You may be able to find stainless steel tubing to replace the railing, but the fittings are Mack. If you are open to a non original look you can go to tow truck accesories web-sites that have grab handles and can use them but will not be the same Mack Fire truck look. I looked around and finally had mine rechromed. The door handles are from a company called Eberhard, they are still in business and may be able to replace the handles you have. Firemack

Graham, My contact is Danny Danz, P.O. Box 172 Woxall, PA 18979. Phone 215-234-8916. He is always busy so you might be best to write him a letter to describe what you need. I attached a picture of the work he did on our truck, You can see the gold leaf and the swirl in the gold if you look closely. I am a member of Spaamfaa http://www.spaamfaa.com/, and attended SPAAMFAA meetings that teach how to do goldleaf if you cannot find anyone down under that still does gold leaf. Here is another guy that I have seen his work, but have not met him personally. He is also well known.http://www.firegold.com/fire.htm I am attending a Spaamfaa Fire flea market this Sunday in Allentown not far from the Mack factory. If you still need the 2 axes, I am sure I can find 2 for sale. I think they go for around $25-40 dollars each. Let me know. Send me email to let me know if you need specific help. Firemack

Albert, Check with your local NAPA supplier first, they may have some standard brake flex hose that will work, or they will know of a local brake shop that can make flex hoses. I went to National Transaxle and they can make up new brake flex hoses. You can add a 45 degree fitting to the frame side if you wnat to make the hose flex less. Our 54 B75 does not have the 45, another 60 B95 does have the 45 degree fitting, so it can be piped either way. You can also check with Whitepost restoration shops in VA. (look them up on the web) they restore all types of wheel cylinders, etc, and may also have the ability to make up the flex lines, if you cannot find anyone local. Firemack

Graham, Your truck was most likely gold leafed at the Mack Factory. Then the local gold leaf striper would add more details after it was delivered. They did not use any transfers on the B model Macks. There are scrolls that were standard , the "Mack" lettering on the rear was standard. The rest of the gold leaf and lettering was determined by the customer. There are templates for the scrolls and Mack lettering that our local gold leaf guy has, and since you are down under, I am pretty sure he would let your guy use them. Firemack

The updraft carb is little harder to diagnose than the down draft. I have rebuilt the updraft carb. I also used an electric pump to test the eliminate the possible issues with the fuel pump. First make sure to add a tee in the line to add a fuel pressure gauge, to insure that you are getting 3-5 psi at the carb. Once you establish that then see if it will run smoothly on the idle circuit. If that works then try to rev the engine and see if the engine will rev up smoothly, if it does good. If it backfires and then revs, you have a lean mixture from a bad accelerator pump, if it revs and stalls you may be running out of fuel from the float level being set too low. These steps will give you some basics to get started, once you have tried these then post the results and we should be able to help you on the next steps. If you need a rebuld kit, Barry at Watts Mack was able to order that and is still available. aslo the entire rebulding instruction sheet and process is still available if you need it. I think Zentih still has it available. Firemack

Redhorse, I just updated a 1960 B 95 Firetruck, put in all new hoses, diaphrams, (type 30-30) added the spring-parking brake, The slack adjusters were OK, so I left them alone- but they were stock parts and available. The only parts you may have trouble getting is the actual shoes, on this truck were OK, but I had our 1954 B 75 Mack shoes relined by National Transaxle, so there should be someone local that can do that for you. Firemack

224 Eng Positive ground does not make any difference unless you are trying to add accessories that run on negative ground or connect them wrong when changing the batteries or jumping the truck. Most Macks were positive ground until the late 70's. I don't know when they started to switch to negative ground, someone else on the forum may know, but most of the trucks (and cars) I had with postiive ground had no issues except those I already mentioned. Don't try to hook up any radios unless you use a converter for polarity. When was the last time the truck was run? Firemack

Spin Garlic, Contact Paul Romano in the Boston Area, He sells lots of CF parts. 781-334-3573. paulromano@pipeline.com Firemack.

224eng Most CF Firetrucks have 2 battery systems, A and B. Both should be 2-12 Volts in parallel, positive ground. I don't know if the polarity was changed, if it was refurbed, but easy enought to check, track down the ground and see if it is connected to positive side of the battery. I have never seen a 24 volt CF for the fireservice. Firemack

Thad, Thanks for scanning that brochure and posting it, it is great to see another piece of history saved for the rest of us to see. Firemack

Pavrguy, Most of the B85's had 4- 6 volts , positive ground- everything on the fire trucks is 12 volts. I changed the 4 - 6volts over to 2- 12 volts positive ground. You can change to negative ground but that takes more time, and you will need to repolarize the generator, so I just left it as positive ground. Also the rear brakes have aluminum shoes if you have hydraulic brakes so be very careful taking them apart and assembling them so you don't break the castings. If you have air brakes then you should have no problem just back off the slack adjustors and then work the wheel back and forth until you get it loose, or you may have to remove the drums and clean up the drums and shoes. Good Luck Firemack

Gary, Check with Napa, they still had one available for our B75 gas about 4 years ago. Firemack

Thad, Just about everyone has owned and worked on the very dependable chevy small block, and I drove them in C50 and C60 trucks when they were new, and they could easily handle 26000-30000+ GVW, so it does not need a big block to handle the load. Everyone has provided a good checklist of items to go over and you should start with the basics -check the compression, vacuum and then tune up and replace all of ignition parts, fuel filters, and check the radiator, water pump, and thermostat, be sure to check for full flow. One other item to check is the muffler, it could be clogged and causing back pressure which can also cause the engine to run hot and lose performance. The 2 speed rear is a good option and was on the trucks I drove, and the next best option is to add the 5 speed, but spend your money on the engine first and get it running right, then you can look at adding the options, as the truck as originally built should be able to handle the load. Firemack

The tach drive on our 464 gas comes off the cam near the dual distrubutors, then goes to a duplex/reducer to slow the speed for the long cable going back to the pump panel, the second output on the duplex/reducer is for the tach on the dashboard. If you need the reducer/duplex drive it should still be available at a speedometer shop. see if 66-C05 F can post the picture, if not I can take a picture of the duplex/reducer Firemack

Matthew, I have had both classic and historic plates on my vehicles and never have had any hassle for driving them, anytime anywhere. Most of the SPAAMFAA members have historic plates as do the ATCA, and I don't see any of them get hassled either, so I would go with historic if that makes it easier to get the plate. Firemack

Macknutt I turned the crank on the 464 6 cylinder gas engine 2 years ago, it cost about $250 and to recondition the rods was about $250. The bearing sets were about $500, gasket set was about $300. While I was in there did the piston rings for $368, and the clutch was about $500. Painted the engine at a local machine shop was $300. Hope that helps, Firemack

The Autocars were always tough trucks. When I was a boy, my dad had 2 autocars- a 1946 long nose with a fuel oil tank, and a real ugly 1947 Autocar cab over with fuel oil tank. They were built here in Ardmore PA. The 47 had tandem axle and the rear was a boogie and during the winter they used what looked like a huge bicycle chain between the duals to drive the rear axle. I still have the master link in the basement. When the chains were on they pushed that truck in any weather, the only problem was you has 8 wheels driving and only 2 steer wheels so the drives could push the truck straight on the snow and ice if you were going too fast! There was no power divider so it was tricky driving that truck. Both trucks got sold in 1974 and they were still around for a long while and finally hit the truck graveyard around 1980. That was long time serving in all kinds of bad weather and they just kept on going any time any weather! Wish I had some pictures to post, but I don't think they survived the hurricanes in Florida a few years back. Firemack

Matthew, In PA we have a classic and antique plate. In both cases you have to agree that the vehicle is not used for commercial purposes and has a limit on the mileage. We have plenty of antique firetrucks registered as antiques here in PA including CF's. Call your Ohio local state representative and have them get you the Ohio BMV rules and regulations on historic vehicle registration so you then will know exactly what requirements you need to meet or agree to to have it registered as a collectors or historic vehicle in Ohio. Firemack